GCE23LBYDFBB General Electric Refrigerator - Instructions

The light switch was accidentally broken. I looked it up on your site and found the part. I ordered it and switched it out in a matter of minutes. It also helped having people who purchased their switches from the site explain how they repaired their switches with relative ease.

Removed the shelf from the fridge. Cleaned it, removed the broken stop, slid in the new one. Put the shelf back in the fridge. VOILA! 2 minutes.

Installed shelf.

Used small screw driver to pry the top of the switch away from left inside wall of freezer side of side-by-side refrig./freezer; then used pliers to remove the switch; then removed the 3 prong socket and plugged it to new switch and installed it into the inside wall of the freezer.

My son replaced both temperature sensors and the fridge works great now!!! Like brand new again!!!!

Temp. Sensor was under an egg shaped cover on the left side wall in the refrigerator. Remove the cover, cut the two wires to the old sensor and remove it. Connect the new sensor to the two wires using butt connectors. Replace cover and done.

slipped the part in , attached the spring, that was all it took

Removed broken panel, replaced with new piece. Took about 1 minute. Thanks for making such simple fixes available to the DIY people who need affordable repairs.

and a rat recently got trapped in the house while the owner was away. The rat chewed the grill quite a bit too. The repair was accomplished using a phillips screwdriver on the two screws which attach the grille to the refrig.

Took set screw and allen wrench and screwed set screw into place.

What an awesome site! After putting in my model number and finding the problem I was having, I simply picked the 2 parts that were most likely to solve the problem. I bought a defrost thermostat, and defrost heater. To a high certainty, they would solve my problem. They didn't however! I ended up having to buy a temperature sensor on another order a few weeks later when the problem resurfaced! My own fault. I should have bought it the first time. As others have written: the longest part of the job is defrosting the ice from the coil. One thing I did that I didn't see suggested: plug the drain hole below the coil. I put a couple towels in the bottom of the freezer and ran the hair dryer. Didn't take long. I read that the amount of water created will overflow the pan under the refrigerator, so I plugged the drain hole. Once you clean that mess up, the repair is pretty straight forward. Great site. Even through I had to make two separate purchases, I still saved a lot of money. Thanks!

First, I had to remove the freezer drawer front. This is 8 large phillips head screws. then remove the plastic cover over the drawer slides. to do this, remove the white center screw from the slide near where it attaches to the drawer front. then the plastic cover will slide off pushing to the rear of the slide. take off the slides from the freezer walls by removing the phillips screws and pulling them towards you. They have tabs/slots in the rear. remove the center tray support and support bars, too. the icemaker has to come out, that is just 2 phillips screws but you also have to disconnect the electrical connector. just squeeze the locking wings and rock/pull. a screw in the top center of the back panel comes out. Lift and pull the back panel out. The evaporator coil appears. The thermocouple is attached to the coil in the upper right. Cut that one's wires and take it out. Just cut back about an inch from the back of the thermocouple, there is not much slack. Seperate and strip the wires back about 3/8 inch. Do the same for the new thermocouple. I twisted the wires together and used a solder sleeve to join the wires. The sleeve is just a little plastic tube that has a ring of solder in it that melts with heat gun heat. You can join the wires using butt connectors or whatever method appeals to you. I just wound the extra wire and put a cable tie around it, there is plenty of hiding space in that area. Make sure the new thermocouple is contacting the coil firmly.At this point, for a test, I left everything apart, propped the drawer against the opening and plugged the fridge in. Note that the evaporator fan will not start spinning immediately! It will just sit there making little bumps like it wants to go. The temp in the coil has to get settled before the electronics in the refridge will tell the fan to spin. It takes maybe 20 minutes. Reassemble. Fridge and freezer work great. It does take several hours for all to get cold again.

about an hour to figure out what was causing the vibration and noise and about an hour to put it back together and 5 min. to order a new fan blade thank you.It started making noise during thanksgiving dinner so we toke it apart after dinner and I cut the other 2 blade to match the broken one so to cut down on the noise and vibration semi put it back together and 7 days later the part arrived.

Very limited working space in this model. Must remove grill and disconnect elect connector on motor. One additiional tool suggested: Extendable rod with magnet on end because you will most likely drop something. First, remove two screws holding motor to metal strap. Tool must be inserted between blades of fan in order to get to the screws and this is the hard part. Fan and motor are removed as one assy and this takes some manuvering. Might have to remove front screw on metal strap to gain more room. I did not attempt to remove fan shroud. My fan was attached to the motor shaft with a metal clip. Spray a good lubricant such as PB Blaster on the shaft, wait a few minutes and press it or tap it out gently. Save misc parts on old motor for reassembly. Your set up may be different so check out everything before starting.

followed part select video instructions