GCA24KBBAFWW General Electric Refrigerator - Instructions

Used a 2" putty knife to lift off the old switch. Disconnected the broken switch and replaced it with the new one. Took about 1 minute.

It really was as simple as the other folks noted. Slid a screwdriver into the edge of the broken switch and it popped right out. Disconnected and reconnected each of the two wires and just slid the switch back into the slot. Truly a DIY fix.

frig ran to much and pump on to long noticed light switch sticking when door was opened replaced the light switch took care of the problem the switch controlles more than just the light popped out with a screwdriver careful to find the side of it that has the retainer clip on it and the direction of the switch in correct position so it goes off when you close the door flat side facing the back a 2 minute job at most

Temp. Sensor was under an egg shaped cover on the left side wall in the refrigerator. Remove the cover, cut the two wires to the old sensor and remove it. Connect the new sensor to the two wires using butt connectors. Replace cover and done.

took out shelves and removed the back plate my removing 2 screws with a nutdriver.removed the old defrost timer and defrost heater which was really easy.then installed the new ones.the video i watched on the website was really helpfull.

Removed the shelf from the fridge. Cleaned it, removed the broken stop, slid in the new one. Put the shelf back in the fridge. VOILA! 2 minutes.

We just pried off the fan blades and pushed on the new part. Could not have been easier. The rat has been permanently dipatched and, hopefully, that is that.

Ordered the part and within three working days the part was delivered. It took two minutes to pry off the broken part and one minute to snap in the new one.

replaced with new one

Replaced light switch. Defrost cycle remains suspect but refrigerator has worked OK for about 10 days.

I just installed the bin in the door.

Unplugged the refrigerator first....then on the inside of the fridge, I popped the temp sensor cover off (upper LH side) and exposed the old sensor. I snipped off the old sensor about 3" down from the end and connected the new sensor (which I trimmed down to about 3" long) with some heat shrink wire nuts/connectors. Let the fridge run for a day or so and confirmed the problem was solved! Oh yeah, there was no way to tell the 2 wires apart (power vs. ground) on the sensor. However there was a manufacturer's stamp on the wires. So note the orientation of the text and mark one of the wires with a sharpie on both the old and new sensor before trimming. This will give you a reference for which wires to connect when adding the new sensor to the old wires.

It couldn't be easier. Just pry out the old broken switch with a flat blade screwdriver. start at the bottom in case you scratch the door by accident. When the bottom is out - pull the switch out slowly and disconnect the two wires that are attached to the top, taking care to remember which color lead is connected to which wire. Then, take the new switch and connect the proper wires to their respective terminals and push the switch into the slot. Done!

i followed all the other submited solutions. really easy. popped out the broken light switch with thin tip screwdriver. careful not to let wires slip into compartment. then attached wires as i pulled them off broken switch. then carefully pop the new switch back in the slot. when i was younger i worked for an appliance repair company. i felt confident in this repair.

Used small screw driver to pry the top of the switch away from left inside wall of freezer side of side-by-side refrig./freezer; then used pliers to remove the switch; then removed the 3 prong socket and plugged it to new switch and installed it into the inside wall of the freezer.