GSS22IBPDWW General Electric Refrigerator - Instructions

As advised by the forum just replaced the defrost heater assembly now the refrigerator works perfect. did not have to replace the thermostat.
My nephew had exactly same problem on ge refrigerator - replaced the defrost heater assembly and the problem is solved. Just remove the back panel in the freezer compartment, disconnect the cable, remove the nuts and replace the assemble. It is very simple. Bought both assembly from parts select.com - got next day delivery. they are great. would do business in future.

I found if I would put pressure on one connector on the board the unit would come on. So the board had a short. I ordered it, it came in 24 hours and I installed it and problem was solved.

First I removed the shelf and light cover, then removed 3 screws from the ice make. Then I removed 6 screws from the moter cover (back wall of the freezer) and removed it. I then removed the 2 screw holding the moter. This is where the soldering iron comes in. The wire leads from the old motor were molded into a 3" rubber holder and the end wire plastic connector held 6 prongs (2 from a thermo tube). The new motor only held the 4 moter prongs, 2 were empty. To resolve this problem I cut the wires on both the new and old motor. I then attached the old connector to the new moter with the soldering iron and shrink tubing. Replaced all the parts I had removed and started it up. Works like a champ.....

Took panel off back of inside of freezer section, took off old sensor from the evaporator, spliced new sensor into the existing wires, waterproofed spliced connections, snapped sensor back onto evaporator, then put panel back on the inside of the freezer. Really, it took only 10 minutes to fix. Now refrigerator defrosts like it used to, and temps have settled in at specified temps.

I am a single mom of two with limited funds. I had a repairman come out and find the problem and give an estimate. We were told that it was the evaporator fan motor and and the main control board. The repair would cost $400 and no guarantee. So I checked the cost of parts and it was $200 so for no guarantee I figured why not try it myself and possibly save $200. So I ordered the parts from partselect. Even though I paid the cheapest postage they arrived the next day. So from what I read and saw this would be a piece of cake. Well let me just say if the freezer section was gutted to begin with it might not have been that big of a deal. As it was getting to the top screws of the panel that covers the evaporator fan required the removal of the icemaker and all. I am not a tall woman nor am I a thin woman and fitting my body in that small freezer section was not easy. There were times that I had to have my teenagers reach a long arm in and hold a part up for me. After that I discovered that the fan I had purchased only had 4 wires. The one from my old fan had 6. I discovered that 2 of the wires went to some sort of sensor. Long story short I rigged it. I was able to remove the 2 prongs for the sensor and insert them into the empty holes on the new fan harness. It wasnt easy. I have limited tools too and I wont even get into how I did it. They did not fit the greatest so I used the electrical tape to cover the whole connection. I put the whole thing back together and debated on trying it without putting in the main board but I decided to trust the repairman this time and go for it. Getting to the main board was no big deal. But what disturbed me was the main board I held in my hands did not look exactly like the main board I was about to take out. I watched the video 3 times my how easy it looked. I then read the directions that came with it. It talked about removing a pin and cutting a wire. Well I about had a stroke worrying. I finally found the serial # on my frig and thankfully mine was not on the list. However the directions did still say something about if there wasnt a wire in pin 2 proceed to step 3. Well I had a wire in pin 2. So it was confusing. My serial # wasnt one of the models #'s given but I did have a wire in pin 2. I just took a chance and trusted the serial #'s and ignored the rest of it. I plugged the wires on the new board one at a time. Put the cover back on and prayed as I plugged it in. A soft purr began. It was running. The freezer was around 60 degrees. I put a room thermometer in to make sure it was going down. It kept going down. Around 3 hours after I finished there was a loud noise from the freezer. It had made ice something it had not done in months. I stayed awake most of the night watching and listening to it. It got down in the single digits I was afraid that maybe it would never shut off. It finally shut off as I was making the kids breakfast the next morning. Of course I was worried that it would not restart. So I opened the freezer and fanned in room air. It worked. Since then we have purchased no more dry ice or regular ice. We bought a tub of ice cream and more than one day of school lunch stuff at a time. Bottom line it works. Thanks to everyones post and to partselect for the video. I hope that I never have to do it again though.

Cause: Failed relays on main circuit board. Fix: Main circuit board replacement: Unplugged refrigerator. Removed 10 screws securing main circuit board metal cover (located on back of refrigerator) using a nutdriver. Disconnected 7 multi-pin electrical connectors from the circuit-board by firmly pulling each connector from the circuitboard sockets using a needlenose plyers. Depressed the small locking prong on each of the 4 plastic circuit board mounting pegs while pulling the board off the mounting pegs.
Pressed new board in place over mounting pegs. Re-plugged in all connectors (no confusion because each connector has unique pin counts). Replaced all mounting cover bolts, making sure to pin green ground wire to last bolt. Plugged in refrigerator. Done.
Note: I determined the main circuit board was bad by removing the auger motor assembly from the freezer and testing the auger motor harness power pins. AC voltage should jump when ice demand lever is pushed (while pressing the internal door light off switch). If no voltage jump, then auger motor relays on main circuit board have failed, indicating board replacement is needed.
Another check would be connecting an extension cord to the auger motor terminals and plugging it in. Motor should run. If it does, then motor is good and main circuit board is bad. If it doesn’t then auger motor is bad and needs replacement.

Very easy repair to do. Read instruction sheet before starting! Unplug unit prior to removing panel cover.

Remove three hex head screws holding control panel cover in place and reveal the circuit board.

Remove all the wiring harnesses by gently pulling them from the sockets on the board. Do not pull the wires - make sure you pull on the plastic socket so that the wires aren't damaged. If plugs seem tight use needle nose pliers to gently wiggle them out. Remove earth (green) wire from spade connection on fridge chassis. The new board has a slightly different connection for the earth wire.(No spade connector - wire now has a ring connector that attaches between panel cover and fridge chassis using one of the hex head panel screws when the cover is replaced.

Using needle nose pliers locate four plastic mounting tabs holding the board in place and squeeze in the end of each tab whilst gently pulling the board off it. Repeat for all four tabs and remove old circuit board.

Making sure the new board is the right way round locate it on the plastic tabs and push gently until you hear the tabs click. Gently pull the circuit board to ensure it is locked in place.

Re-install all the wiring harnesses. Put a hex head screw through the cover panel and slip the earth wire ring over it and screw panel to chassis. Replace two remaining hex head screws and plug fridge back in.

Voila!! No more ticking sounds and a plentiful supply of ice and water!!

Noticed the problem in November 2009. Replaced Hi Limit Sesor for Defrost thinking it was the freezor temperature sensor. Did not fix the problem. Replaced Motherboard. Did not fix the problem. Called Sears Repair. They mis-diagnosed the problem and told me it was the sealed system. I doubted them and sent them home. Replaced the correct freezer temperature sensor that connects to the motherboard. FIXED.
Removed a panel, cut two wires, soldered and insulated two wries, reinstalled panel.

The problem with this model is usually a burned out heater assembly, when the freezer is still freezing, but the fresh food section is warm. To check, first disconnect power from refrigerator. Remove food and then shelves from freezer section. Remove the screws that hold the back freezer panel in place. Remove back panel and the coils will be exposed. If they are covered in ice the heater is most likely the problem. At the bottom of the coils below the heater assembly is a drain hole plug this hole with a rag. Place a large towel in bottom of freezer pan beneath the coils to catch the water. I do not recommend any method to melt the ice from the coils but a hair dryer, do not chip at the ice or you will most likely damage the coils. After you have defrosted the coils and removed all water from the unit, remove the two screws that hold the heater element in place, this element is directly below the coils. Look at the element, if it is burnt black, this is a tell tale sign it is bad. If that is the case it will need to be replaced. Remove the electrical wires located on te end of unit, the new unit will have instructions with it, reconnect the electrical wires per instructions, remount heater with the same mounting screws that held it in place. Be sure to remove rag from drain hole, replace back freezer panel with screws, replace shelves, and plug refrigerator back in. If your problem was a cold freezer section but a warm fresh food section this should fix your problem. In conclusion, this problem and the fix for it is indicative to these model's ge refrigerator's

Not only were the parts delivered in 2 days....but a phillips head screw driver and matching up the new rails with the old ones turned out to be a super easy and fast repair!! A monkey could do this repair!! But now I noticed the left hand top drawer rail is cracked! It stinks that the quality of the original parts are so poor...but at least I'm saving some money doing it myself!!!

Came home in the morning and found that everything in the freezer was defrosted. The fridge and freezer were warm so I checked the web to see what the problem could be. After about 15 minutes I found what the two causes could be. Since the parts were so cheap, I decided to change both the defrost heater and thermastat. It's been about a week since I changed the parts and no problem.

First I hired a repairman and he said that it was in the unit and would not be worth the expense to fix.

I started to research on the net and this was one possible source. ( evaporator fan). I had to take it apart to verify it. Then put it back together to use until the part came.

The next time went much faster as I did not have to take near as many screws out to access the fan motor. Very Happy to have it working fine again as a new relacement would cost $1200. Thanks much. Ron

No self defrost. Measured heater coil with ohm meter which was OK (not open). Ordered 2 temp sensors (there are 2 in freezer, 2 in fresh food sections). The original and the new all meaured ~150 ohms. Replaced one by one. This did not fix problem. Ordered defrost thermostat. Original measured ~150 ohms - new one was ~100 ohms. Unpluged refridgerator. Removed coil panel (4 nut screws) in freezer and light cover (1 small phillips screw). Locate defrost thermostat clipped to top of coils (orange / pink wires). Cut wires and unclipped thermostat. Stripped insulation off of wires and reconnect using wire nuts. Clipped thermostat back to coils. Ran refridgerator without panel on coils to see if coils frosted up again and listend for fans/compressor to stop ( took hours). Opened freezer and viewed glow of defrost heater. Problem resolved.

Removed old circuit board and replaced with new

Trouble shooting with meter to make sure all compressor windings were not shorted or grounded. Then check for voltage coming to compressor. Checked start capacitor. Everything checked out ok so I turned to overload or start relay. Over load ohmed ok but relay was not and a rattling noise was heard when you shook it.