MSK22GRSMAD General Electric Refrigerator - Instructions

I did not realize I needed 2 cams to complete repair. Door cam was riveted in. I had to drill out rivet and replace with nut and bolt. Otherwise it went quite sommothly. At first I just replaced the cam on bottom of refridgerator but door was not quite right when closing. Further inspection showed the door had the other half of cam that also needed replacement. Needed 2 orders. Paid for 2 shippings.

removed the door, installed the cam riser, and reattached the door. It took longer to remove the contents in the door than it did to install the cam riser.

The bottom of the door was 5 " off the floor. A 2x4 block and a 4x4 block were pushed under the door and supported it while the water line was disconnected the hinge removed and the cam replaced. It was a simple fix and reading other people's experience made the repair so much easier.

I was amazed the part arrived the next day the installation was simple.

Followed step-by-step instructions in previous post. Note that there are TWO approaches, both of which work.

Option 1) Order TWO cams (PS297995), drill out the rivet holding the frame's cam, and replace it with a nut and bolt. (See post on 07/19/09.)

Option 2) Order the entire hinge assembly (PS290199), which includes the door's cam and an assembled frame hinge and cam. (See post on 10/29/08.)

We opted for Option 1 which was pretty easy. Option 2 would be even easier and take less time but costs about $9 more.

Thanks to previous posters for excellent instructions!

Buy ( 2 ) cams !!!! removed hinge cover and hinge on top of the door, ( 2 screws )...lift door off of the bottom hinge and lay door on the floor, remove broken cam on bottom of door with nut driver, ( 2 screws ) , install new cam..... remove the bottom hinge off of the front of the refrigerator with nut driver, (2 screws ).... saw rivit off and remove old cam, install new cam and secure with new bolt and nut,... reinstall hinge back on bottom front of refigerator.....replace door back onto the bottom hinge.....install top hinge back onto the top of the door....replace hinge cover......done !

remove the 'pop-out " frame around the door recess, you pry the flexable seal from around the ice despenser, have someone hold the unit with the wiring, remove the one screw that holds the door recess, and replace the new one. reverse the procedure. remember to unplug thr frig. first

We taped the door with 3 pieces of duct tape, then put boards under it. Used socket set to remove cam and then cut off rivet so we could just use a screw to keep in place. . . Just for your information, I ordered 2 cams, and was glad I did as I need 2 to make the repair. . . Didn't read about this online or on order recommendation. The cams go 1 up and 1 down thanks for the installation repair stories, it inspired us to "do it ourselves " and we saved about $75 to $100. 00

Since my refrig is 18 yrs. old and I never had to replace it, took a little long to remove trim piece on the outside. After that repair went smoothly. I still have problem with water collecting inside on the bottom of the freezer, might have a leak somewhere. Ice maker is functioning correctly.

The solenoid in the dispenser was overheated due to the control board failure. After I rerplaced the board I found the heat had distorted the plastic crank and jammed the solenoid action. The plastic crank was easy to replace. Now after expending approx. $75 everything works normally!

Had to take front panel off dispenser area. Then remove components and install new part. That was easy part. Problem was getting components back into front of freezer. Seemed like something was blocking it from going all the way in. Had to remove small amount of insulation and "jiggle" components and eventually fell into place.

Replaced flapper, which was in surprisingly good condition. Major part of repair was removing a lot of mold incurred from long term seepage of room air into the ice channel. In the process of the repair, I discovered that the solenoid to the right of the flapper was hanging up badly. I removed it and cleaned both the plunger and the interior cone of the solenoid with alcohol. This removed quite a bit of rust and some mold. Reinstalled solenoid, replaced flapper and it works just fine. May need to replace solenoid if problem recurs. Certainly worth $37.00!

Googled how to replace the door seal, ordered parts and replaced the door seal flapper. The video on partselect was not correct for this GE model. However a simple diagran showed you simply remove the control panel directly (pops off) to provide access to the panel. Remove the 4 screws holding the panel, replace the door seal, and reassemble.

Watched the PartSelect video. Very simple and solved the problem. Very pleased with the repair and PartSelect.

Looked at the instructional video and read previous customer comments. Didn't have to dissassemble rear of freezer door. Access through the front once trim ring and circuit board removed. Could not have done it with out the video/and or previous customer comments. Part was shipped and received immediately. Repairs complete! No more frost developing and plugging ice chute! I especially appreciate the customer comments on how to complete this repair!