ZISB360DXB General Electric Refrigerator - Instructions

Replaced flapper valve per website instructions. GE factory technician took two weeks to get here, charged over $100 for the call and told us we needed a new refrigerator door at a cost of over $500 to fix the problem. We sent him packing. After visiting the PartSelect website, the $5.88 PartSelect flapper valve fixed the problem. Amazing.

If you have a reverse osmosis system for filtered water system in your home that also feeds the refrigerator, using another water filter in the refrigerator is redundant, so GE makes a Water filter Bypass Cap that allows you to run using the already filtered water without needing to expensive water filter. FIRST - using a phillips screw driver remove the toe kick plate at the bottom front of the refrigerator - two screws - one on each side of the plate that extends the entire width of the refrigerator. SECOND - Locate the water line (should be right in front) and the valve to turn off the water. Turn valve clockwise (right) until completely closed. Then test by attempting to fill a glass with water using the dispenser on the door. If any water continues to come out, continue turning the valve (without forcing it) clockwise until it has been turned as much as possible. If water still comes from dispenser, locate the source of the water line - most likely from under the kitchen sink. There should be another valve under the sink, or simply turn off (turn the cold water valve clockwise) until water cold water completely turned off. Test again as required. THIRD - clear the top right hand back shelf directly under the water filter screwed into the ceiling of the refrigerator in the rear top right side of the refrigerator. Place a small towel under the water filter, and slowly turn the filter 1/4 turn clockwise without using force. Continue turning until the full 1/4 turn is complete and the filter will drop down without pulling. Place the old filter upside down in the sink, thereby allowing the filter to drain any water present in the filter. FOURTH - remove the filter plug from package, notice notches in top of plug that align with gaps in the area where a filter would typically be screwed into the filter location in the ceiling above the top right shelf in the refrigerator. After aligning notches in the bypass plug with gaps in the screw mechanism, carefully turn the bypass plug 1/4 turn counter- clockwise - at which time the bypass plug should be firmly installed. FIFTH - Reverse step SECOND, and turn valve Counter-Clockwise until valve is completely open. Test to ensure no water is leaking from the Bypass Plug. SIXTH - Finally reverse step FIRST by reattaching the toe kick plate using the two phillips screws removed in Step FIRST. NOTE: The Bypass Plug is quite inexpensive, but after adding shipping from Canada - the cost is about the same as purchasing a new filter for the refrigerator. :-(

I had made a dry run at the repair after watching the instructional film provided by part select and it seemed easy enough.
The only problem was that i needed to use the electrical cord extender (provided) to adapt to my plug type. That presented a problm because it needed to be tucked up out of the way to allow the ice bin to clear. Just needed to be creative in how you wrapped the cord behind the ice maker unit before snugging the attachment screws.
Cranking out ice like crazy.

I used a mirror to locate the two small plastic tabs located on the underside of the ice dispenser light. I used a small flat blade screwdirver to push the plastic tabs forward to release the ice/water selector unit. I read about someone that did not see the tabs and ended up removing the inside of the freezer door, a two hour task! The ice and water control unit then slides out. remove the four rusty screws holding the dispensert and ice chute, the selenoid isthen easy to see.
Just replace the solenoid if your are having problems, I tried to lube it but to now avail. There is some rust in there so good time to clean up and put new screws in. Be care when removing the plastic lock tab on the circut board it breaks easely. If it does no big deal just make sure the connection is pushed in all the way. test your handy work before buttoning up. The solenoid comes with a new plunger so don't worry about cleaning the old one. The screws do not come with.

Let me start by saying, I usually hire something like this out but figured I would give it a try. The install was fairly straight forward, however it would’ve been nice if the instructions would have been more useful. Instructing me to remove one screw to release the auger and solenoid enclosure wouldve been nice. There were 3 other screws that I didn’t need to remove and they were the ones holding the auger in place, which made assembling that much more difficult. Once to enclosure was removed, and the solenoid was exposed, it was a seemless process. I would however, recommend paying attention to or taking a picture of the connections on the solenoid. I was lucky to remember or got lucky. Regardless, I was able to complete the project successfully. If I had to do it again, I believe it can be done in 30 minutes or less.

Ordered new solenoid so the flap would close. That did the trick.

I applied heat to the area with a hair drier. Used a little too much heat and deformed the ice funnel which also controls the water spigot. Ordered a new ice funnel from PartSelect. Part arrived in about a week and included a schematic of the mechanism which made disassembly and reassembly very easy. In a short time everything was working like new.

First I removed the electrical plug from the back of the freezer that plugs into the icemaker. I then removed the two hex head screws that hold the icemaker to the wall of the freezer and removed the icemaker. I removed the plastic cover, which incidentally protects the gears, by prying it off with a srewdriver. I removed three small nuts(7mm) which holds the internal cam in place. I removed the cam by pulling it off the shaft. Once I got the part from you folks I reversed the procedure that I just mentioned, and put the icemaker back together. It works great. The part with shipping was around $16.00. A new icemaker was roughly $159.00. If I would have called a technician it would have cost around $300.00 to repair.

I replaced the original solenoid, which had rusted into one solid piece. OMG how easy was that!

First I removed the ice tray rack lifting it out of the way to reach the back cover of the fan. Then, the whole back inside panel had to be removed. Two screws removed the fan and bracket from the freezer unit. The missing bumper lid just snapped into place. Replaced everything in reverse order. Pretty easy job.

The only difficult part was not knowing which parts had to be removed to gain access to the flapper to replace it. It appeared as if the frame around the control panel would have to be removed as well as the door handle; we tried but were not able to remove the frame. It turned out that the panel just popped out with the frame in place. Once we had access to the flapper, it was easy to replace it. The repair fixed the problem.

Went on this site, found out many others like me had the flap door stuck open problem, it would not shut after you went for ice. I needed a new solenoid that opens when the ice is dispenced and closes afterwards not allowing the warm ambient air to come up the shoot which frosts the ice and melts it. It shipped QUICK and now I have a working ice maker dispenser from the outside. Its been 2 YEARS of opening the door and reaching into the ice maker bin for ice! Thanks PartSelect

with a small screwdriver push in tabs in upword movement to remove the face cover for the three botons of ice crushed ice and water .
once removed remove four screw to take out the circular door .
solinoid plunger will be atached to the door and it has to screws holding the solinoid .
instolation is the oposit steps of removing the part

1. Remove outside panel (snaps off)
2. Remove Control panel 4 screws
3. Remove Solenoid by taking out 2 bottom screws
4. Remove solenoid weight from crank lever
5. Place new solenoid weight from crank lever
6. Insert weight in solenoid
7. Place back 2 bottom screws solenoid
8. Place back Control panel screws
9. Snap back into place outside panel

The trouble with DIYers is that they don't have very much experience with and the benefit of several repairs on the same appliance. So they must rely on their mechanical abilities and the youtube help of Steve. So they must resort to eliminating the variables as their diagnostic approach. In my case I was unable to find the exact description of my problem, so I began with what seemed like the most likely and the least expensive replacement. So after I had replaced the water valve, the micro switch and the main board I finally found the problem was the water filter by ordering and installing a water bypass valve which I did not have readily available at the start.