PTE22SBTJRSS General Electric Refrigerator - Instructions

1.- ordered the thermostat replacement.2.- unplugged unit 3.- empty unit, removed racks too(freezer only) 4.- used a hot hair dryer to melt the ice,kept drying water inside the unit. 5.-used electrical pliers carefully removed damage thermostat.6.- putted on new thermostat, used standard wire connectors to keep wires together and wrapped them with black electrical tape. 7.-gentle replaced thermostat back in contact with the other pieces.8.- returned back racks and all removed pieces,drying all water from melted ice.9.- plugged it,...done

I replaced both the Defrost Thermostat and the Temperature Sensor located on the top of the cooling coils. I ordered them because they were the least expensive items that addressed my problem. They did not correct my problem. I then ordered the Main Control circuit board. I installed the board in about 15 minutes. Finally my freezer returned to the set temperature of 0 degrees F. Problem solved

I had already replaced the icemaker and solenoid valve and had not solved my problem. After I looked at the back wall gasket, it was obvious that the element was getting too hot. Installation was really simple- unplug refrigerator cord, remove frozen food and racks, remove light cover and back sheet metal by removing 4 screws, cut and splice wires to new parts. Reinstall.

Followed the repair video, was spot on!!

luckly i have a bit of experience in refrigeration im an hvac technician by trade. this repair was a bit tricky in that i did not know at first if it was a Temperature Sensor issue or the main control board. I had tested the defrost termination thermostat and the defrost heater and as i suspected they were ok. Next i wanted to test the thermistors (temp sensors) it is hard to find technical data on these fridges. I needed to test the thermistors resistance @ a certian temperature to ensure they were working properly but where do u get such data? I also wanted to know some information about the logic programmed into the board (i.e when do you initiate defrost etc. . .). I had no such luck so i figured since i tested the defrost heater and thermostat and they were ok and all of the evap fans and such were working i'd order a circuit board and new thermistors. Got the CORRECT PARTS from this site in 2 business days and my fridge is working great! changing the parts was really easy, figuring out which parts to change was the only difficult thing about this job.

followed part select video instructions

Replace defrost termostat and temperature sensor

I have a GE Profile French door refrig. It's only about 4 yrs old and the defroster stopped working. I read the other repair stories and was able to narrow it down to either the temp sensor, defrost timer, or main board. The refrig section was up to about 47 degrees and freezer was around 25. I could tell it was trying to cool but couldn't. So I tried the temp sensor first. I cut and spliced the new sensor on the outlet of the Evap. Coil and it took about 15 mins. Turned refrig back on and waited. The coil started to ice over after about 5 hrs I left the back panel off so I could see if and when then heater kicked on. After about 8 hrs I looked in and saw a faint glow and water trickling down and running out the drain. Turned out the sensor was bad and wasn't telling the main board it needed to defrost. I would try the sensor if you are having the same issues before spending a lot of money on the main board, defrost heater and or timer.

Replaced above parts and the noise problem was not resolved. Ordered a new motor, fan blade and another set of grommets from PartSelect. The parts were delivered the next day. Took me about 15 minutes to swap the new parts in. It's been 3 days since the repair and the noise has not returned.

watch you tube demo how to do it.

Open up the freezer make shore the fan is running/unplug the unit take out the Shelf,s take a 1/4 inch nut driver and take the back panel out pull out the ice box pull up on the back panel and pull it out to expose the coil it should be blocked with ice if it is take a blow dryer and defrost it unplug the fan and push it up. On top of the coil you will fiend the defrost timer take your hand and unstrap it and pull it out. Cut the wires and strip the wires back enough take the new part and wire nut the wires together and tape with electrical tape and put back on the coil. Put every thing back together your dun plug the unit in and wait over night if you can to let every thing cool.

easy pry out, disconnect wiring, connect on new switch and press in switch.

I took the pan out, replaced the bar with the new part - slide pan RH - and I was back in business. It couldn't have been easier.

removed the inside fridge electrical panel and swapped switches

Unplugged the refrigerator first....then on the inside of the fridge, I popped the temp sensor cover off (upper LH side) and exposed the old sensor. I snipped off the old sensor about 3" down from the end and connected the new sensor (which I trimmed down to about 3" long) with some heat shrink wire nuts/connectors. Let the fridge run for a day or so and confirmed the problem was solved! Oh yeah, there was no way to tell the 2 wires apart (power vs. ground) on the sensor. However there was a manufacturer's stamp on the wires. So note the orientation of the text and mark one of the wires with a sharpie on both the old and new sensor before trimming. This will give you a reference for which wires to connect when adding the new sensor to the old wires.