PFS22MBWBBB General Electric Refrigerator - Instructions

I took the 3 screws off the cover that is in the back of the appliance, unpluged the plugs that attached to the circuit board pressed the 4 plastic pins that held the old board. Then I snapped the new board in place and pluged the plugs back into the new board. They will only go on one way so you cannot get the plug in the wrong place, job done appliance works fine. Thanks

I found this failure at midnight, was able to determine loss of voltage at J2 Pin 3 to 4, causing the fan failure. Jumpering with a staple from Pin 5 to 4 allowed the evap fan to run from the condensor fan supply for the few days waiting for the part. Not pretty, but it saved the food. Running like that forced the evap fan to high speed, so I had to set the thermostats lower (higher temp)

1. To un-mount the board, use needle nose to gently squeeze plastic bayonets one at a time and lift that corner clear.
2. Mark each connector J1, J3, J4, J2, J5 to match the mark on the old board
3. Gently work each connector off, replace board, and re-land each connector. The new board will have a ground wire. Just trap the lug under the upper left cover plate screw..

Pull fridge out. Pull the little 6 by 12 silver plate off on the back middle bottom of fridge. Disconnect the quick connects . Remove from 4 plastic pins. Them reassemble.

I wouldn't have had a clue without your video. After the part was delivered, which was only in two days, I watched the video. The man explained everything perfectly, making our "fix" a breeze. It was great, I stood over my husband's shoulder, while he sat on the floor and told him what to do step by step. It couldn't have been easier. You guys are awesome!

Removed circuit board cover, unplugged l
Leads, rePlaced board, leads and cover. Done

Also watch the video. Super simple

Very simple fix by replacing the mother board. Your "how to" video made the repair even easier. The appliance repair estimate was over $400. I saved over $200. I already recommended your site to several other people. Thanks for making it so easy

Totally followed the instructions of the video that came with the sensor. Unplugged the the fridge, defrosted the freezer. Cut off the main sensor that usually is the one that goes out. Installed the the new sensor with new wire terminals, crimped them and covered with electrical tape. Fridge works like a charm. Partsselect is excellent. Saved me a few hundred dollars versus having a GE Tech come and do it.

On the internet forum I read that if the control board needs to be changed , do the same for the Run Capacitor/relay.
The Ge profile refrigerator was 15 years old. First I disconnect the power cord,
I removed the control board at the back of the fridge, replaced it with a new one and did the same for the run capacitor.
Plugged the power cord back and it works fine. GE repair service did not want to come to do it. DIY is fine.

Easy

removed cover from rear of refrigerator. disconnect mother board connections. Unplug first, used needle nose pliers to squeeze plastic tabs holding on motherboard and replaced old with new and plugged back in connections. Plug back in refrigerator and done.

I easily removed the screws and then removed the board and took a picture so I would remember how to re-connect it. It was really easy and now my refrigerator is working great. If I can do it anyone can do it. My husband was amazed that I did it all by myself.

Used 1/4 nut driver and drill to take off acc pnl. The repair amounted to unplugging several connectors, removing the old motherboard, installing the new board and reconnecting the wires. this solved the problem and the whole appliance seems to run better.

I ensured that the refrigerator was unplugged from the power, removed the main board enclosure cover, carefully unplugged the wiring connectors from the board, released the 4 plastic standoffs with needle nosed pliers by gently squeezing the ends and removed the board.
I placed the new Main Control Board on the standoffs, carefully re-connected the electrical connectors, ensuring that the plugs were mated correctly, replaced the board enclosure cover and powered up the refrigerator to verify operation of the compressor, fans and controls.
Once verified, I unplugged the refrigerator from the power, removed the access cover to the compressor and condenser and carefully cleaned all dust and lint from the back and underside of the refrigerator before replacing the cover and putting the refrigerator back into service.
The cleaning will improve the efficient operation of the refrigerator.

according to the vidio showing how to to change the control board its look relatively easy i dont think i will have a problem changing it ,,but will i change the right part for the problem " the frige take to long to get cold again after thrawing state freezer temperature went up to 19 * or more sometime ,,thermostat has been changed and its solved the ice deposit problem" hopefully changing the control board will help shorting the long thrawing state" the board has not been changed cause the frige start working again

Checked this website for symptoms described, found same descrip, ordered mainboard, changed out in less then 30 minutes, Frig working properly now. Follow the installation instructions carefully as this mainboard fits other frig's & depending on model some wires need to be cut on harness etc.