PSCF3VGXCFBB General Electric Refrigerator - Instructions

I removed the two screws which released the door stop. I then put the new door stop in place and installed the two screws. Job Done.

Followed your instructions and you made it simple.Thanks a million.

First I replaced the double valve because the ice maker was not filling with water. It still did not work. Then I replaced the ice maker itself. This worked and was relatively easy to replace. I had to use the water fill "slide" from the old ice maker. The new one was too narrow and it leaked water into the freezer.

Part arrived very fast as ordered..need to pry old switch out from top..use care to push the retainer down..after old switch was 1/2 out, I used a putty knife for better leveridge.Remove wire connector...after plugging in the wire connector to the replacement switch, make sure the switch is properly positioned so the switch will depress when door shuts.

shut off water supply to unit, pull the unit out,unplug, unscrew lower back cover, locate valve relay unit (bottom left, black and clear hose coming out of it) undo the quick connect for the clear water hose on the right (black one is for ice).

front of the unit, bottom left, locate the other hose (longer one) running to the freezer door from under the unit, undo quick connect.

Inside unit, remove middle drawers, careful with the glass panels as these just lay on top and are not fixed.

undo the 3 screws for the old tank, pull it out, snake the hoses thru the grommet on the bottom, reverse process...all set!

Just pop the old one out, careful not to lose the wiring inside the ref wall & popped the new one in.

My GE refrigerator emitted high pitch noise a short while ago. I tried different dampening methods that helped but not eliminating the problem. I finally replaced the fan, motor, and associated parts and solved the problem. The total cost was about $50.

Replaced flapper

Remove lower front panel, disconnect damaged union from water hose under freezer door, replace with new union, tighten and reattach front panel. No more water coming from under the unit. Ice maker and dispenser features returned to working order!

Turned off power, removed cover from Ice maker, checked resistance across thermostat for zero (read open), all other switches read proper value (when activated). Ordered and received thermostat. Removed Ice Maker from freezer, removed two screws holding ice tray to Control Assembly. Removed Thermostat and replaced with new one. Applied Silicone Sealant to face of Thermostat for adhesion to ice tray when assembled. Remounted Ice Tray to Control Assembly and remounted in freezer. Works Great...

i used the video it showed on the site or iwould not have been able to do it

First I turned the refrigerator and water line off. Then moved to the freezer section, followed the directions, removed the two screws. Directions state to not remove them but I had to in this case. Unplugged the ice maker and removed it from the freezer. I installed the two mounting screws then tried to plug the electrical connection back in but had to use the adaptor cord furnished in the kit. The cord was a little long but I tucked it in and mounted the ice maker. Turned it on then turned the refrigerator and water back on and in a few hours had ice! Very easy to do!

removed 3 screws unplug and remove old unit. install two screws install new ice maker, tighten screws plug in and turn on. had ice in 20 min.

Because the lever was broken, when you close the refrigerator door, the freezer door would unseal slightly causing frost to build up on the inside and outside of the door.

After removing the base grille, the repair was made by simply placing the new part in the slot where the old part was then re-attaching the spring from the part to the hook in the base of the refrigerator. Now replace the base grille with the two screws. Time: About 10 minutes. Tools: Phillips screwdriver, needle nose pliers.

followed instructions already posted on your website, but had a very difficult time getting the dispensing side of the auger assembly to slide out, even after I disengaged the plastic tabs. There is no easy way or place to grab the assembly to pull it out. Finally turned the unit upside down and pounded on the edges of the assembly with a wood block and a small hammer. Once the part started coming out a couple of inches, I flipped over the ice bin and was able to pull it out the rest of the way, once I had something to grab on to. After the auger assembly was out the cup replacement was easy per posted instructions and the unit snapped back together easily.