PDCS1NCZARSS General Electric Refrigerator - Instructions

Remove glass, lift cover up in front, slide out, transfer parts seals and switch for crisper(one pivot screw. Remove rear seal by using finger nail to pull at gasket slowly pulling it back. Take your time. Reinstall cover and glass, snap pivoting cover back on.

Checked water inlet tube inside freezer, stuck screwdriver in it to see if there was any ice and it seemed clear. Checked water pressure to fill valve, good pressure. Replaced fill valve, still no water to ice maker. Replaced Ice Maker. Still no water to Ice Maker. Removed freezer back panel, hit fill tube with heat gun after allowing freezer to defrost awhile, replaced back panel, ice maker. Water going to icemaker fine. Problem was that the fill tube was frozen up way at the back where the water line emptys into the icemaker fill tube. Old icemaker and fill valve were probably OK. No real way to check it from outside the case in the rear of the fridge as the water line is sealed on the fill tube and heating it without removing the rear freezer panel does not get back far enough to melt the ice.

I made my wife fix it.

0. As a safety precaution, unplug the range or hit the relevant fuse breaker before you start. You might also want to grab a flashlight. Definitely do not try to do this while the oven is hot.
1. Pinch the wire over the light bulb cap to remove it. This is inside the oven at the back.
2. Pop off the hemispherical glass cap.
3. Unscrew the old light bulb, and screw the new light bulb in its place.
4. Put the cap back.
5. Secure the cap by putting the wire back in its slots on the cap.

No tools needed, the cap is just held in place with pressure from the wire.

replaced lights in refrigirator and freezer

First, turn off power - since I did not want to pull the refrigerator out on my wood floor I tripped the circuit breaker to that circuit and opened door to make sure interior light was off (ensuring power was off). This unit has a bottom freezer, I took out all shelves, ice maker and all parts in the way of accessing back of interior of freezer section. Removed back plastic section by removing one screw in middle top of back panel and prying it out. This was a bit difficult as it was in there a bit tight but once the plastic warmed up it pulled out ok. This revealed the compressor section and temp sensor that was attached to the copper coils with of all things - a zip tie! In pictures of this that I looked at on various web sites the sensor was on a metal bracket attached to the coil so it made me wonder if tf the factory took a shortcut? I cut the old sensor wire, stripped the two wires 1/2", and connected them to the new sensor wire with butt connectors, I put some silicone into the ends of the butt connectors to prevent moisture from entering into connectors and wrapped the connection in black electrical tape. I then "attached" the sensor to the coil using a zip tie, put the plastic back piece back on, inserted everything I took out and put power back to refrigerator. It's been 3 days and temp of refrigerator is stable, ice maker not clogging up, and compressor not running all the time! So far so good.

Turned off the breaker to the fridge because I couldn't reach the power plug to unplug it . Use small flat head screwdriver to pop out the piece, disconnected the rubber prong connectors, inserted the new piece into the rubber prongs snapped it back into place. Flipped the breaker back on and prayed it worked. It did and I saved myself $120 service call.

removed 6 screws and repaced cover.

First I removed the ice tray rack lifting it out of the way to reach the back cover of the fan. Then, the whole back inside panel had to be removed. Two screws removed the fan and bracket from the freezer unit. The missing bumper lid just snapped into place. Replaced everything in reverse order. Pretty easy job.

I watched the video online, followed the instructions and within minutes had the part installed. The frig light was working once again! I will say the original switch was very snug and I had to do some very minor scraping of the plastic to get the new part to slide in.

1.Google troubleshooting for this issue. Determine the inverter card was bad. Installed new card and correct jumper harness per instructions. Total time to troubleshoot, remove & replace was about 30_45 min. Pretty simple

installed the new door shelf

Simply clipped the new handle onto the pullout tray. GE has simplified the design of the replacement easier to install. Shipment of replacement was quick and excellent customer service.

WE (WIFE) took out the old parts an replaced with new one ..Be careful to get the placement of the Grommet or they "POP" out on you. fast ship on the parts too.

The best instructions were several YouTube videos for replacing icemakers on GE french door bottom freezer refrigerators, but none fully described the process. The following difficulties were encountered: (1) Instructions for removing the freezer door showed three screws on each side that needed to be removed; in fact, there was only one screw on each side. It was smaller than the three depicted screws and its location was not exactly as shown in the videos. (2) None of the instructions adequately described the process for removing the mounting plate from the nonfunctioning icemaker so it could be attached to the replacement unit. The key was to forcibly pry open the cover over a screw that then needed to be loosened with a screw driver. It seemed that I risked breaking the unit when I tried to slide the tab, but it eventually moved and revealed the screw that was holding the original mounting plate in place. (3) Replacing the freezer door required lining up some metal studs with slots in the undercarriage; you need to get down on the floor to examine how this fits back together. (It might help to take some photos before removing the freezer door.) (4) Replacing the upper drawer was perhaps the trickiest. My first effort resulted in having the rod with gear pinions on each end pop out because some of the tabs holding the gear pinions on each end broke. That meant that I had to order two replacement gear pinions (left and right are identical). Then, as with the freezer door, it was necessary fo slide metal studs on each side into a vertical slot leading to a horizontal slot in order to seat the upper drawer properly. So the whole process took a few weeks; actual work time was perhaps 3-4 hours. This could have been shortened significantly had I taken photos as I disassembled everything and if the procedure for moving the mounting plate had been clearer (or even existing). All in all, though, this is a doable DIY project.