PGCS1NFXBSS General Electric Refrigerator - Instructions

Pulled ice box away from wall. Took lower cardboard cover off. Shut water line off. Got my volt meter and checked the current going from the wall to the plug in at the inverter (input side), and I had the required 115 volts. Then I unplugged the connection going to the compressor (not the plug at the compressor which you cannot see until you unbolt the inverter) but the output connection side that goes to compressor. I checked the voltage and had about 13 volts not the required 115 volts. Therefore, I came to the conclusion that the inverter was bad. I ordered one from Partselect and they shipped it right away. I installed it and the ice box is back up to running order.

Removed back wall cover over coil. Defrost all ice with a hair dryer. Cut white wires and replaced Temperature Sensor. It has been working for a week and no trouble at this time. If you have this system on your GE refrigerator do this before replacing the motherboard. I must admit I was thinking that was the trouble. Motherboard was replaced after 5 years old now 5 years later my thinking is this a 5 year problem. So try the Temperature Sensor.

This is a simple repair. You remove the two upper crisper drawers, remove the bottom slide draw that holds cheese, etc. Then lift up on the crisper pan cover and pull out. Note: the old crisper pan will have 2 rubber moldings you will need to move to the new one and there is a sponge molding that if you peel off very carefully you can put on the new pan otherwise you will need to buy that. No one told me that and I wish they did... so that is why I am writing this.

follow the easy instructions replace 3 temperature sensors cut the wires and crimp them with new sensor and it works like new

Just pulled apart the lower cabinet assembly and installed new assembly. Not difficult, just take your time so as not to break any of the plastic.

I found instructions on the web about how to do this repair, so I ordered the part with confidence. But the instructions simply said "pull out the old switchlight". That was actually somewhat difficult as the clip on the side intended to hold the part in was stubborn. I eventually used a utility to slice off the clip. From that point, it was just a matter of plugging in the new switchlight , which was very simple.

Checked water inlet tube inside freezer, stuck screwdriver in it to see if there was any ice and it seemed clear. Checked water pressure to fill valve, good pressure. Replaced fill valve, still no water to ice maker. Replaced Ice Maker. Still no water to Ice Maker. Removed freezer back panel, hit fill tube with heat gun after allowing freezer to defrost awhile, replaced back panel, ice maker. Water going to icemaker fine. Problem was that the fill tube was frozen up way at the back where the water line emptys into the icemaker fill tube. Old icemaker and fill valve were probably OK. No real way to check it from outside the case in the rear of the fridge as the water line is sealed on the fill tube and heating it without removing the rear freezer panel does not get back far enough to melt the ice.

I made my wife fix it.

No water flow after installation, part sent GSWF filter made in Taiwan had different treading then filter made in USA. Tried 3 from Taiwan same result. Found 1 from USA worked perfect.

replaced lights in refrigirator and freezer

After the new gaskets arrived, I left them flat on the floor for 24 hours to let kinks settle out. When they were ready, I pulled the old gaskets loose from the doors (one at a time)and wiped down the area with baking soda solution, then wiped it dry. I then seated the new gaskets in place, using my fingers to push them into the slots on the doors. All went very well, with no problems.

Remove glass, lift cover up in front, slide out, transfer parts seals and switch for crisper(one pivot screw. Remove rear seal by using finger nail to pull at gasket slowly pulling it back. Take your time. Reinstall cover and glass, snap pivoting cover back on.

Replaced evaporator fan motor, and this solved the whistling noise that had developed. Reviewed and followed the removal and installation instruction video as closely as possible. This was very helpful, with a few additions. For the model PS123NGPBBB GE refrigerator/freezer, there were a few differences from the video. There a was an additional cover panel that was positioned vertically at the back of the freezer compartment below the auger motor assembly. It was necessary to remove this cover (4 screws) to gain access to the auger motor cover screws. The unit also has a different light configuration with 2 lights. I found it helpful to remove these light bulbs and the corresponding light fixtures in order to remove the evaporator motor assembly. As mentioned in the video, it was necessary to cut the 4 wires from the wire harness of the new motor, and use butt end connectors to reattach these wires to the corresponding wires in the unit. Total job took between 1 and 2 hours, and the motor change solved the noise problem.

I replaced the water line and the inlet water valve

I watched the video online and it said there were three sensors in the refrigerator, two in the freezer and one in the refrigerator. I only ordered one sensor and was going to try the one in the refrigerator first. He said the upper one in the freezer is the most difficult, but is usually the problem. So, I replaced the upper sensor and tried restarting the unit. Everything went well and it fixed the problem.