PFCF1NFXAWW General Electric Refrigerator - Instructions

Opened the water filter sleeve on the inside of my refrigerator. Removed the old water filter cartridge. It was a little stuck so I used a pliers to turn the cartridge counterclockwise. The old cartridge slipped out. I inserted the new cartridge and turned it in clockwise until it "clicked." Closed the water filter sleeve. Reset the button on my fridge. All set to go.

I tried to quite the noisey evap motor with special liquid motor grease from Radio Shack. It did not work, so I ordered the evap motor. My freezer motor was wired slightly different than the motor I received. The replacement motor had a male plug attached to the four wires, the original motor was different, so I cut the wires and spliced them into the original freezer wires (colors were the same). Remounted motor. Works great, and no more groaning motor
Peter

I used pliers to pull lightly on the head of the switch, while I inserted a small flat head screw driver into the base of switch and gently worked around the edges to free it from the panel.

replaced divider wall. Removed shelf and drawers from freezer unit.
Removed old screws. Attached shelf rail to new divider wall and reinstall. A magnetic nut driver helped a bunch. Did not need to remove the door. Still concerned about design of part but that is not due to parts select but rather to GE. Really should have a metal support where screws go into the top of the freezer. attached to the divider wall This will probably break again same place. Caused by overloading drawers or shelf such that they pull on the horizontal support bar when opening. breaks the plastic screw support brackets. This provides for horizontal support of the divider wall as does a small hole in the horizontal bar. I reinforced that with a zip tie and a hole in the divider wall made with drill before installation. the fit of the plastic was sloppy on the bottom of the divider wall.

Replace the motor fan on condenser and clean the condenser

removed freezer door / shelf /ice maker pulled back panel off and removed fan

-Pulled refrigerator out to access back.
-Removed compressed paperboard cover.
-Found compressor running by the feel.
-Removed metal cover to control board.
-Found ~5V coming from control board to inverter (variable frequency drive) board assembly attached to compressor.
-Found ~120 going to inverter board.
-Removed inverter board assembly from compressor.
-Found equal resistance (~7 ohms for mine) at all three contacts of inverter (DC) compressor.
-Ordered inverter assembly, plus one extra and control board for possible future use so not to loose all my food again; I might order a compressor so I have it before price goes up.
-Installed inverter when arrived.
-Used air compressor to blow out accumulated dust on condenser coil.
-Closed up and cleaned up (C^2).
-Fridge cooled and back to proper temperature the next day.

Watched you tube video for gasket application for GE refrigerators

The repair did not go exactly the way it was described in the YouTube video, but basically it was similar. After unplugging the power cord, emptying the freezer, removing the shelves and the ice reservoir, I removed the ice maker assembly by unscrewing a Philips head screw and unplugging the power connector. The connector had little retaining tabs on each side that I pried open with a straight blade screwdriver. Then the ice maker lifted right out. Next I removed one screw holding the auger motor assembly, unplugged the power connector, and lifted out the assembly. This where things got difficult. After flailing around a bit, I removed the panel on the back wall of the freezer below the evaporator fan assembly, exposing the evaporator coil. I saw that the fan assembly was attached with two screws at the top and two screws at the bottom. The top screws were easily removed, but when I removed the bottom screws, which were situated in very tight quarters, I DROPPED BOTH SCREWS DOWN BEHIND THE EVAPORATOR COIL. Be prepared with a magnetic nutdriver so this doesn't happen to you. I could not retrieve the lost screws, but fortunately it appears that the top screws hold the assembly securely enough. The assembly was loose, but it was still attached by a power cord that I could not disconnect. I removed the tracks on the side walls for the ice bucket, and then I could maneuver the fan motor assembly just enough that I could reach over the top of it, grab and pull off the old fan blade, and slide the new fan blade onto the shaft. Reassembly was straightforward, replacing each part (except two lost screws) in reverse order to disassembly. After getting everything put back in and plugging in the power cord, I was amazed at how quiet it ran.

The old switch was hard to remove. Thinking that I may have to loosen the wires I used a socket wrench to remove a clamp. This was unnecessary. In the end the switch did come out using a large size screwdriver. The problem was that the expanding plastic tongue is not visible from the ouside so you have to try to feel your way around. If i had ordered the replacement before and not afterwards I would have seen this before hand.

After replacing the light bulb and still no light I manually pushed the light switch button. Intermittently the light would come on then go out. I removed the power plug from the power source then replaced the light switch. I plugged the refrigerator back in and now I open the door the light comes on and stays on until the door is closed.

I ordered two switches, replaced both with a knife in 10 minutes. Interior light works, thanks.

Remove gaskets from boxes and place on a flat surface for a day of so to remove shipping folds.

Before installation we placed the gaskets in a bath tub od warm water to soften.

E tested the dimensions before removing old gaskets by placing the new gaskets on the doors careful to make sure the were oriented the same.

Removed old gasket and installed the new.

Softening helped with pushing the gasket into the rails.

No tools needed and DID NOT remove the door to install

Pulled ice box away from wall. Took lower cardboard cover off. Shut water line off. Got my volt meter and checked the current going from the wall to the plug in at the inverter (input side), and I had the required 115 volts. Then I unplugged the connection going to the compressor (not the plug at the compressor which you cannot see until you unbolt the inverter) but the output connection side that goes to compressor. I checked the voltage and had about 13 volts not the required 115 volts. Therefore, I came to the conclusion that the inverter was bad. I ordered one from Partselect and they shipped it right away. I installed it and the ice box is back up to running order.

Removed back wall cover over coil. Defrost all ice with a hair dryer. Cut white wires and replaced Temperature Sensor. It has been working for a week and no trouble at this time. If you have this system on your GE refrigerator do this before replacing the motherboard. I must admit I was thinking that was the trouble. Motherboard was replaced after 5 years old now 5 years later my thinking is this a 5 year problem. So try the Temperature Sensor.