PDSF0MFXBRCC General Electric Refrigerator - Instructions

instalation was very easy - but the part was 3/4 inch to long and a 1/32 inch to wide.Trimmed it with the "faithfull"
Dremel and it works!The instalation part of the "job" was less then 10 min.

The icemaker arm disconnected from the metal frame. This caused the icemaker to cycle and the heater to come on and stay on until the plastic parts melted causing a mess and stink. This action melted the ice and then the water fell through the frozen items in the freezer and refreezed in the lower portion. OK, I remover the dead icemaker and tossed it away. I installed the new icemaker and the wiring harness didn't fit right (way to long). I retrieved the old icemaker and removed the wiring harness from it. I removerd the new ice maker and installed the old wiring harness to the new icemaker. I then installed the new icemaker, plugged it in and turned on the power. No water, I ordered the dual solenoid water valve, installed it with difficulty (another story) the turned on the power. I reinstalled the ice bin and found it didn't fit. The icemaker was to low and couldn't be adjusted, 1/4" higher would have been great. I shoved in the bin anyway, I was out of ice for my scotch, and it started making ice.

Replaced icemaker assembly. Only 3 Phillips screws to remove the old assembly. Pretty much an exact swap. Was easy to replace but the connecting cable on the new replacement assembly wasn't very easy to make fit. Had to force it into a location that would be out of the way and allow everything to operate properly. That connecting cable should be more flexible and adapt to the fridge a little more friendly.

follow the easy instructions replace 3 temperature sensors cut the wires and crimp them with new sensor and it works like new

Replaced Defrost Thermostat. Tricky removal of light fixture cover and evaporator cover. Light cover screw removal is not intuiitive and the eveaporator cover tabs are not easy AT ALL to remove.Once they are removed, simply 2 screw removal of rear panel.

Had to unscrew screws holding cooling coils to gain access to thermostat mounted on a coil in rear.

Simkple matter to cut wires, remove old thermostat and splice replacement back on. Found it simpler to re-mount thermostat on top coil greatly simplifying process.(Why didn't they place the original unit in this much more accesible place?)
Re-attach coils to rear wall replace rear panel, light fixture cover and evaporator cover.

Refrigerator has been running fine this past week.

Received parts NEXT DAY! FANTASTIC!

Remove ice maker out of fridge; remove 3 screws
replace defective part re-install all components 30 minutes later " magic ice again. Very easy repair most important low cost. Thanks "Parts Select"

I replaced the water line and the inlet water valve

Unplugged the fridge.
Took off the freezer door.
Took off the door brackets and the ice machine. Removed the back panel. Unplugging the light and the ice machine were a challenge to get to. Installation of the fan motor was simple. Reverse all the directions, done. Tough part was figuring out what to take off.

First removed the two screws that holds the old ice maker in place. Unplugged it. The freezer compartment was too narrow to allow the unit to slide out or turn in any other direction. Had to also remove the two front screws from the left side ice bin track and swing it down. The door opening was also too tight. Scratched the plastic door jamb putting the new unit in but other than that all is well and functioning well.

I watched the video online and it said there were three sensors in the refrigerator, two in the freezer and one in the refrigerator. I only ordered one sensor and was going to try the one in the refrigerator first. He said the upper one in the freezer is the most difficult, but is usually the problem. So, I replaced the upper sensor and tried restarting the unit. Everything went well and it fixed the problem.

0. As a safety precaution, unplug the range or hit the relevant fuse breaker before you start. You might also want to grab a flashlight. Definitely do not try to do this while the oven is hot.
1. Pinch the wire over the light bulb cap to remove it. This is inside the oven at the back.
2. Pop off the hemispherical glass cap.
3. Unscrew the old light bulb, and screw the new light bulb in its place.
4. Put the cap back.
5. Secure the cap by putting the wire back in its slots on the cap.

No tools needed, the cap is just held in place with pressure from the wire.

The overload protector was the problem. It plugs into the side of the compressor and the run capacitor plugs into it.

If you pull the overload protector and it rattles when you shake it, that's probably your diagnosis.

The replacement is different from the original and the wire connectors are different. Hold the thing in the same orientation as if it were plugged in. The vertical connector goes to the neutral wire, which on my fridge is orange. The horizontal connector is for the overload, which for mine is black and white. If you have a schematic you should verify the wires yourself.

Anyway, the refrigerator now works like new.

I got the wrong switch before so just need to put the right 1 in. Super easy, pop off old, plug in new, click back into place. Done. REALLY REALLY EASY for anyone to do

Installation could not have been easier!

Did the repair just as the instruction said, once I read it. The part I didn't read was that if the plug was under the ice maker, you had to take the wire out of the clip on the side. So, had to dismount ice maker, unclip wire, remount maker, plug it in. Still under 30 minutes. Thank you.