PHE25PGTBFWW General Electric Refrigerator - Instructions

took off the front panel, removed the auger and front piece, removed the pin and spring and installed them on to the new piece and then put everything back together

I watched the video online and it said there were three sensors in the refrigerator, two in the freezer and one in the refrigerator. I only ordered one sensor and was going to try the one in the refrigerator first. He said the upper one in the freezer is the most difficult, but is usually the problem. So, I replaced the upper sensor and tried restarting the unit. Everything went well and it fixed the problem.

Changing out solenoid was very easy, but you don't have to remove trim ring and it didn't fix my problem. Turns out a relay fell out of its holder in the piece you have after removing the 4 screws per the video.

Pried off the yellowed trim piece, took a little effort. Popped on the new piece. Looks great! Although this part seems expensive for what it is, it does make the refrigerator look much better and cleaner.

Took the tray out, removed three screws, popped the front tray out, installed the deflector, and put it back together. Done in less than 15 minutes and my wife is ecstatic that our dispenser works again.

I got the wrong switch before so just need to put the right 1 in. Super easy, pop off old, plug in new, click back into place. Done. REALLY REALLY EASY for anyone to do

New parts just snapped in place. Perfect fit.

After inspection of the new door recess assembly, I realized that I could use sidecutters (electronic assembly type) and 'clip' off the inward lock tabs of the old recess assembly and disengage it from the crank door arm without any further disassembly of the refrigerator door. It was easy to 'unhitch' the tang from the crank arm and wiggle it out through the external opening of the ice/water dispenser compartment. I reversed the process and inserted the new assembly through the external opening of the compartment. The new door recess assembly snapped into place on the crank arm and fit tightly against the ice chute opening, correcting the issue caused by aging distortion of the old rubber seal cup portion of the door recess assembly.

Went exactly by the video. Perfect job, you send the installation video with the part. You watch the video before or during, goof proof, took longer to disassemble than to replace the part.

Take the face (the part with the buttons on the outside) off, disconnect wired connectors (three), take the screws out of the part behind that (4), and then find the solenoid value (on the right). It's attached with three screws. Mine was rusted beyond belief. I knew this was the problem, ordered a new solenoid valve, put it back in place with three screws (use new screws that fit, not the old rusty ones if possible). When testing, make sure you give the flap a couple of seconds to close. There is a delay, and I initially wasn't patient enough so I had to disassemble and assemble an extra time because of this.

Simply put: If your solenoid value is rusted and the value won't operate smoothly, order the part and install it. This is as easy as any repair could be.

I just snapped in the new side to the shelf ...very simple and easy:-)

On the filter just unscrew the old one, and screw the new one. and the switch remove the old one and repaced the new one. really simple.

Replaced crusher disp, but had to order the back plate(didn't realize it was two piece) waiting for that part. It was very easy to do. Had to use two drivers to pop out of ice bucket.

I replaced the original solenoid, which had rusted into one solid piece. OMG how easy was that!

Watched the UTube video on how to replace. Very simple instructions. So easy a 10 year old could do it.