PFCE1NJWBDBB General Electric Refrigerator - Instructions

Easy repair. Old gasket removed by hand in about one minute. The new gasket was pressed in place by hand in about 3 more minutes.

i removed srews from area until i could access the fan unit and removed it. wires were not identical so i had to splice some together, most likely could not have been avoided. the exploded parts diagram helped me to be sure that i would have all replacement parts on hand so i wouldn't have to wait for something i had forgotten.

The repaire guy came in tooke it out and told me it is goin to coast $20 for the part and $50 for the labor..... So I looked, It was soooo eeezzz ALL you have to do is get the switch out( with help of my butter knife :) it plugs in to a little outlet on the wire (on the botom side) so take out the old one and plug in the new one wich I got for $8 + $6 shipping = $15 THANK YOU PART SELECT for saving me $55 Im a 36 y/o stayathome mom and Ihave never don this before, Im very proud of my self. well... it was very easy!

Your instructions were "spot on"! Pried out broken switch with screwdriver-reinstalled new switch. Very easy! Ordered on line on a Wednesday new part arrived on following Saturday-Great service and will definately use again. Highly recommend PartSelect!

I tried to quite the noisey evap motor with special liquid motor grease from Radio Shack. It did not work, so I ordered the evap motor. My freezer motor was wired slightly different than the motor I received. The replacement motor had a male plug attached to the four wires, the original motor was different, so I cut the wires and spliced them into the original freezer wires (colors were the same). Remounted motor. Works great, and no more groaning motor
Peter

Opened the water filter sleeve on the inside of my refrigerator. Removed the old water filter cartridge. It was a little stuck so I used a pliers to turn the cartridge counterclockwise. The old cartridge slipped out. I inserted the new cartridge and turned it in clockwise until it "clicked." Closed the water filter sleeve. Reset the button on my fridge. All set to go.

replaced divider wall. Removed shelf and drawers from freezer unit.
Removed old screws. Attached shelf rail to new divider wall and reinstall. A magnetic nut driver helped a bunch. Did not need to remove the door. Still concerned about design of part but that is not due to parts select but rather to GE. Really should have a metal support where screws go into the top of the freezer. attached to the divider wall This will probably break again same place. Caused by overloading drawers or shelf such that they pull on the horizontal support bar when opening. breaks the plastic screw support brackets. This provides for horizontal support of the divider wall as does a small hole in the horizontal bar. I reinforced that with a zip tie and a hole in the divider wall made with drill before installation. the fit of the plastic was sloppy on the bottom of the divider wall.

Replaced both temp sensors worked good for 2 days then began freezing food. Looked into it further on line. Found small motorized door broken that controls the cold air from the freezer

I used pliers to pull lightly on the head of the switch, while I inserted a small flat head screw driver into the base of switch and gently worked around the edges to free it from the panel.

removed freezer door / shelf /ice maker pulled back panel off and removed fan

The repair did not go exactly the way it was described in the YouTube video, but basically it was similar. After unplugging the power cord, emptying the freezer, removing the shelves and the ice reservoir, I removed the ice maker assembly by unscrewing a Philips head screw and unplugging the power connector. The connector had little retaining tabs on each side that I pried open with a straight blade screwdriver. Then the ice maker lifted right out. Next I removed one screw holding the auger motor assembly, unplugged the power connector, and lifted out the assembly. This where things got difficult. After flailing around a bit, I removed the panel on the back wall of the freezer below the evaporator fan assembly, exposing the evaporator coil. I saw that the fan assembly was attached with two screws at the top and two screws at the bottom. The top screws were easily removed, but when I removed the bottom screws, which were situated in very tight quarters, I DROPPED BOTH SCREWS DOWN BEHIND THE EVAPORATOR COIL. Be prepared with a magnetic nutdriver so this doesn't happen to you. I could not retrieve the lost screws, but fortunately it appears that the top screws hold the assembly securely enough. The assembly was loose, but it was still attached by a power cord that I could not disconnect. I removed the tracks on the side walls for the ice bucket, and then I could maneuver the fan motor assembly just enough that I could reach over the top of it, grab and pull off the old fan blade, and slide the new fan blade onto the shaft. Reassembly was straightforward, replacing each part (except two lost screws) in reverse order to disassembly. After getting everything put back in and plugging in the power cord, I was amazed at how quiet it ran.

The old switch was hard to remove. Thinking that I may have to loosen the wires I used a socket wrench to remove a clamp. This was unnecessary. In the end the switch did come out using a large size screwdriver. The problem was that the expanding plastic tongue is not visible from the ouside so you have to try to feel your way around. If i had ordered the replacement before and not afterwards I would have seen this before hand.

After replacing the light bulb and still no light I manually pushed the light switch button. Intermittently the light would come on then go out. I removed the power plug from the power source then replaced the light switch. I plugged the refrigerator back in and now I open the door the light comes on and stays on until the door is closed.

I ordered two switches, replaced both with a knife in 10 minutes. Interior light works, thanks.

This is a simple repair. You remove the two upper crisper drawers, remove the bottom slide draw that holds cheese, etc. Then lift up on the crisper pan cover and pull out. Note: the old crisper pan will have 2 rubber moldings you will need to move to the new one and there is a sponge molding that if you peel off very carefully you can put on the new pan otherwise you will need to buy that. No one told me that and I wish they did... so that is why I am writing this.