PFCS1PJZASS General Electric Refrigerator - Instructions

If you have a reverse osmosis system for filtered water system in your home that also feeds the refrigerator, using another water filter in the refrigerator is redundant, so GE makes a Water filter Bypass Cap that allows you to run using the already filtered water without needing to expensive water filter. FIRST - using a phillips screw driver remove the toe kick plate at the bottom front of the refrigerator - two screws - one on each side of the plate that extends the entire width of the refrigerator. SECOND - Locate the water line (should be right in front) and the valve to turn off the water. Turn valve clockwise (right) until completely closed. Then test by attempting to fill a glass with water using the dispenser on the door. If any water continues to come out, continue turning the valve (without forcing it) clockwise until it has been turned as much as possible. If water still comes from dispenser, locate the source of the water line - most likely from under the kitchen sink. There should be another valve under the sink, or simply turn off (turn the cold water valve clockwise) until water cold water completely turned off. Test again as required. THIRD - clear the top right hand back shelf directly under the water filter screwed into the ceiling of the refrigerator in the rear top right side of the refrigerator. Place a small towel under the water filter, and slowly turn the filter 1/4 turn clockwise without using force. Continue turning until the full 1/4 turn is complete and the filter will drop down without pulling. Place the old filter upside down in the sink, thereby allowing the filter to drain any water present in the filter. FOURTH - remove the filter plug from package, notice notches in top of plug that align with gaps in the area where a filter would typically be screwed into the filter location in the ceiling above the top right shelf in the refrigerator. After aligning notches in the bypass plug with gaps in the screw mechanism, carefully turn the bypass plug 1/4 turn counter- clockwise - at which time the bypass plug should be firmly installed. FIFTH - Reverse step SECOND, and turn valve Counter-Clockwise until valve is completely open. Test to ensure no water is leaking from the Bypass Plug. SIXTH - Finally reverse step FIRST by reattaching the toe kick plate using the two phillips screws removed in Step FIRST. NOTE: The Bypass Plug is quite inexpensive, but after adding shipping from Canada - the cost is about the same as purchasing a new filter for the refrigerator. :-(

Unplugged unit. Removed back cover plate. Used 5/16 water line. Cut old broken line. Used water tube union and attached new line. Removed electrical contacts. Note very easy removeand replace the red and white hookups. Next remove water line at the old vale with1/2 wrench. Hook up water line to new valve. Icemaker line was not damaged so I removed from old valve and trimmed the end. Really installed line to valve. Plugged in fridge and turned water supply back on. Check for leaks. Had trouble locatingthe 5/16 water line but found bulk. PARTS SELECT had the guest connector and the replacement valve. I received the correct parts and saved me $$$$. Plus my wife happy right before the holidays! !!,

First I removed the ice tray rack lifting it out of the way to reach the back cover of the fan. Then, the whole back inside panel had to be removed. Two screws removed the fan and bracket from the freezer unit. The missing bumper lid just snapped into place. Replaced everything in reverse order. Pretty easy job.

Replaced Double Outlet Water Valve then defrosted coiled plastic water tubing at bottom position inside refrigerator into pan of hot water for 10 minutes. Water still did not flow. Defrosted refrigerator and water dispenser immediately resumed operation. Suggestion -
defrost refrigerator first.

removed 6 screws and repaced cover.

Turned off the breaker to the fridge because I couldn't reach the power plug to unplug it . Use small flat head screwdriver to pop out the piece, disconnected the rubber prong connectors, inserted the new piece into the rubber prongs snapped it back into place. Flipped the breaker back on and prayed it worked. It did and I saved myself $120 service call.

Very simple fix. Just remove the back cover, unscrew the water valve, unplug the water valve and disconnect the water line. Then reinstall the new one. Takes about 15 to 20 min and it worked like a champ

First, turn off power - since I did not want to pull the refrigerator out on my wood floor I tripped the circuit breaker to that circuit and opened door to make sure interior light was off (ensuring power was off). This unit has a bottom freezer, I took out all shelves, ice maker and all parts in the way of accessing back of interior of freezer section. Removed back plastic section by removing one screw in middle top of back panel and prying it out. This was a bit difficult as it was in there a bit tight but once the plastic warmed up it pulled out ok. This revealed the compressor section and temp sensor that was attached to the copper coils with of all things - a zip tie! In pictures of this that I looked at on various web sites the sensor was on a metal bracket attached to the coil so it made me wonder if tf the factory took a shortcut? I cut the old sensor wire, stripped the two wires 1/2", and connected them to the new sensor wire with butt connectors, I put some silicone into the ends of the butt connectors to prevent moisture from entering into connectors and wrapped the connection in black electrical tape. I then "attached" the sensor to the coil using a zip tie, put the plastic back piece back on, inserted everything I took out and put power back to refrigerator. It's been 3 days and temp of refrigerator is stable, ice maker not clogging up, and compressor not running all the time! So far so good.

I followed your video and completely dismantled the refrigerator evaporator motor, fan, brackets, and grommet, I completely cleaned the refrigerator including the cooling coils. I then ordered the evaporator motor ,fan, grommets, lid bumper, and brackets. The order would take a week to arrive. In the meantime I cleaned and reassembled all the old parts, waiting for the new ones to come. Guess what! The refrigerator was quiet as a mouse. I really did not need the new parts, but I kept them anyway just for good luck. Not bad for a refrigerator that's twenty four years old.

There were no instructions on how to relpace the divider guide so it took me a while to realize that I had to remove the guide under the ice maker first. Once that was done the metal bar that supports the front of the divider guide and the divider itself could be positioned. It did take a little force to push the guide into its proper vertical position. After that the the guide under the ice maker could be replaced.

In replacing the freezer door I wasn't careful to pull both glides out together so the geared tracking mechanism came apart. Once that was put back together and carefully pulled out the freezer door was able to be replaced.

First, removed all items in the freezer, placed into a cooler. Removed basket and door from the glide rails. Installed new divider using two supplied screws with a nut driver. Be sure to install support bar first and align the divider by loading at an angle, push into place. Reinstalled shelf and icemaker tray, door, and basket. Can be a little tricky to install if you don't do the support bar first, and removing the door seemed necessary for adequate access to the interior of freezer.

Removed ice bucket, and unplugged ice maker. Removed light cover. Removed ice maker. Pulled fan blades straight up and removed. Pushed new blades on to motor shaft. Fairly easy .

After turning the water off, I removed the silver covering located on the left side bottom. The valve was connected to the frame on the left side. I removed the defective valve and replaced it with the new one. Everything was color coded and the hoses were different sizes, making it impossible to screw up. It was over so fast I thought I made a mistake.

Unplugged fridge. Shut off the water supply valve under sink. Removed lower access panel at back of the refrigerator (six screws). Removed single green screw holding water valve bracket and pulled assembly out to access wiring and hoses. It is a dual valve as one valve is for the water dispenser and one is for the ice maker. Disconnected the 2 electrical connectors (one for each valve). Unscrewed the compression fitting for the water inlet with 1/2 " wrench. Then the two water lines on the outlet which are quick disconnects. You must push the ring towards the valve and then the tubing can be pulled out by hand.

Reattach everything to the new valve and install and its ready to use.

This was so easy I think it took me 2 minutes. I am not very mechanically inclined but that didn't matter! Works perfect thank you!