PFCF1NFXCBB General Electric Refrigerator - Instructions

I watched the video online and it said there were three sensors in the refrigerator, two in the freezer and one in the refrigerator. I only ordered one sensor and was going to try the one in the refrigerator first. He said the upper one in the freezer is the most difficult, but is usually the problem. So, I replaced the upper sensor and tried restarting the unit. Everything went well and it fixed the problem.

0. As a safety precaution, unplug the range or hit the relevant fuse breaker before you start. You might also want to grab a flashlight. Definitely do not try to do this while the oven is hot.
1. Pinch the wire over the light bulb cap to remove it. This is inside the oven at the back.
2. Pop off the hemispherical glass cap.
3. Unscrew the old light bulb, and screw the new light bulb in its place.
4. Put the cap back.
5. Secure the cap by putting the wire back in its slots on the cap.

No tools needed, the cap is just held in place with pressure from the wire.

I got the wrong switch before so just need to put the right 1 in. Super easy, pop off old, plug in new, click back into place. Done. REALLY REALLY EASY for anyone to do

I watched the video online, followed the instructions and within minutes had the part installed. The frig light was working once again! I will say the original switch was very snug and I had to do some very minor scraping of the plastic to get the new part to slide in.

Troubleshooting was the most difficult job, but Parts Select helped with good info and videos. The water filter pushes down on a small plunger that allows the water to flow. If the water filter is bad or clogged up and needs replacement this plunger will not allow the water flow. I tried using the water filter bypass plug but this did not solve the problem either. The plunger was defective or worn out. I ordered the filter & tube assembly from parts select, and followed the simple instructions to change it out. Turn off the water supply first and put some towels down because they’ll be a little spillage out of the tubes. Unscrew both of the tubes with a crescent wrench. Remove the two screws on the filter assembly inside the refrigerator, and pull it forward to take it out -the tubes will follow. Insert the new assembly, tubes first thru the hole inside the back of the refrigerator. Reconnect the tubes and remount the filter assembly inside. Stuff putty back inside the hole with the tubes and reattach the metal cover. This is an easy repair. I am an old lady, so the hardest part was pulling the refrigerator out to get behind it!

Turned off the breaker to the fridge because I couldn't reach the power plug to unplug it . Use small flat head screwdriver to pop out the piece, disconnected the rubber prong connectors, inserted the new piece into the rubber prongs snapped it back into place. Flipped the breaker back on and prayed it worked. It did and I saved myself $120 service call.

removed 6 screws and repaced cover.

First I removed the ice tray rack lifting it out of the way to reach the back cover of the fan. Then, the whole back inside panel had to be removed. Two screws removed the fan and bracket from the freezer unit. The missing bumper lid just snapped into place. Replaced everything in reverse order. Pretty easy job.

First, turn off power - since I did not want to pull the refrigerator out on my wood floor I tripped the circuit breaker to that circuit and opened door to make sure interior light was off (ensuring power was off). This unit has a bottom freezer, I took out all shelves, ice maker and all parts in the way of accessing back of interior of freezer section. Removed back plastic section by removing one screw in middle top of back panel and prying it out. This was a bit difficult as it was in there a bit tight but once the plastic warmed up it pulled out ok. This revealed the compressor section and temp sensor that was attached to the copper coils with of all things - a zip tie! In pictures of this that I looked at on various web sites the sensor was on a metal bracket attached to the coil so it made me wonder if tf the factory took a shortcut? I cut the old sensor wire, stripped the two wires 1/2", and connected them to the new sensor wire with butt connectors, I put some silicone into the ends of the butt connectors to prevent moisture from entering into connectors and wrapped the connection in black electrical tape. I then "attached" the sensor to the coil using a zip tie, put the plastic back piece back on, inserted everything I took out and put power back to refrigerator. It's been 3 days and temp of refrigerator is stable, ice maker not clogging up, and compressor not running all the time! So far so good.

Removed ice bucket, and unplugged ice maker. Removed light cover. Removed ice maker. Pulled fan blades straight up and removed. Pushed new blades on to motor shaft. Fairly easy .

I watched a you tube video for 2 minutes & did the replacement in1 minute.

There were no instructions on how to relpace the divider guide so it took me a while to realize that I had to remove the guide under the ice maker first. Once that was done the metal bar that supports the front of the divider guide and the divider itself could be positioned. It did take a little force to push the guide into its proper vertical position. After that the the guide under the ice maker could be replaced.

In replacing the freezer door I wasn't careful to pull both glides out together so the geared tracking mechanism came apart. Once that was put back together and carefully pulled out the freezer door was able to be replaced.

Pop out switch, pull wires, attach wires to new switch and pop back in. Easy smeasy!

First, removed all items in the freezer, placed into a cooler. Removed basket and door from the glide rails. Installed new divider using two supplied screws with a nut driver. Be sure to install support bar first and align the divider by loading at an angle, push into place. Reinstalled shelf and icemaker tray, door, and basket. Can be a little tricky to install if you don't do the support bar first, and removing the door seemed necessary for adequate access to the interior of freezer.

with a jewelry screwdriver I pried the lock tab in and pulled switch down carefully, the hardest part was that the power wire connector was stuck on good but the pliers and the jewelry screwdriver was its match for a bout 5 minute for one connection a simple pull off prong connection. After the wire connected back to switch it popped back in SNAPP