PDS22SFSDLSS General Electric Refrigerator - Instructions

Had to remove all the covers and fans to expose the condenser, which was difficult as the parts were frozen to it. The styrofoam covering the condenser made it almost impossible to defrost it. Therefore, I ripped the styrofoam off to expose the condenser. Was not really difficult to fix the styrofoam cover using metal tape. Replaced temperature sensor in aluminum block, and used butyl sealant to secure. Had to also re-install parts of ice-ball kit that were not well covered. Lots of parts to keep track of, but anyone could do it.

After replacing the Defrost Thermostat, Defrost Heater Assembly, and the Main Board, I concluded that the problem must be the Defrost Thermistor, which I replaced in less than 10 minutes and it fixed the problem! I cut the wires on the old thermistor and connected the new one after stripping the wires and taped the new connections with electrical wire. Fast and easy repair (the last part anyway ;).

What an awesome site! After putting in my model number and finding the problem I was having, I simply picked the 2 parts that were most likely to solve the problem. I bought a defrost thermostat, and defrost heater. To a high certainty, they would solve my problem. They didn't however! I ended up having to buy a temperature sensor on another order a few weeks later when the problem resurfaced! My own fault. I should have bought it the first time. As others have written: the longest part of the job is defrosting the ice from the coil. One thing I did that I didn't see suggested: plug the drain hole below the coil. I put a couple towels in the bottom of the freezer and ran the hair dryer. Didn't take long. I read that the amount of water created will overflow the pan under the refrigerator, so I plugged the drain hole. Once you clean that mess up, the repair is pretty straight forward. Great site. Even through I had to make two separate purchases, I still saved a lot of money. Thanks!

Your online instructions were easy to understand and follow. I replaced the outlet valve which took about 20 min. Then I had to dissasemble and remove icemaker to de-ice inlet tube and back wall of frezzer to defrost cooling fins. All to gether it took me about 1hr / 40 min. Frezzer now works just like new. Thanks for making it affordable and easy. Curt

Replaced all the sensors in both the feezer and refrigerator.Even though it colder now it still is not cold enough.Freezer won't freeze items but is cold and refrigerator still not real cold

Move unit out to access rear. Unplug unit. Shut off water supply. Remove lower cover with phillips screwdriver. Remove valve and both water lines. Install water lines back into new valve and install valve back into position. Turn on water supply and check for leaks. Install cover. Plug unit back into wall. Let icemaker produce some cubes to make sure everything is working correctly before pushing unit back into position. Very easy!

I monitored the ice maker after it stopped working and noticed it was not filling with water. I loosened the water feed hose to the single valve outlet and the water feed was fine. However, the single valve outlet never activated to turn on the water feed. I disconnected the waterfeed and electrical connection from the single valve outlet and removed it. Replaced it with the new one, reconnected the water feed valve and electrical connection....allowed the ice maker to cycle and it started filling the ice maker with water right away. The unit is functioning fine now. Thanks to Select parts for filling my parts order fast and accurately. Regards.....E. Tew

Detached the old part from the refrigerator and disconnected the low voltage quick connect. Also disconnected the water line to the Ice Maker. Reinstalled the new part in the order it was disconnected and re attached the water line feed to the valve threaded connection. Turned water on and no problems.

I agree with the others, it took more time to take off the other parts and make sure I didn't snap the plastic than it did to actually install the entire thing. I would recommend having an extra set of hands to install the middle part for the drawers. All in all, not hard.

Unplugged unit and removed vented cover over compressor section. The run capacitor is a simple fix 1 Phillips head screw and 2 spade wire connectors. For the temperature sensor I had to remove all drawers and the ice maker to remove the back cover to expose the condenser. Put a bowl at the drain stem in the rear of the unit and used a heat gun to defrost the coils on the condenser. Cut the wire about 3" from the sensor end . cut about the same off the new sensor stripped the wires put shrink wrap on each wire, attached butt connecors . heat gun for the shrink wrap and reassembled everything. Simple job that took about a half hour to do both. I will monitor the fridge for a couple of weeks to see if I need to change the control board.

I have a GE Profile French door refrig. It's only about 4 yrs old and the defroster stopped working. I read the other repair stories and was able to narrow it down to either the temp sensor, defrost timer, or main board. The refrig section was up to about 47 degrees and freezer was around 25. I could tell it was trying to cool but couldn't. So I tried the temp sensor first. I cut and spliced the new sensor on the outlet of the Evap. Coil and it took about 15 mins. Turned refrig back on and waited. The coil started to ice over after about 5 hrs I left the back panel off so I could see if and when then heater kicked on. After about 8 hrs I looked in and saw a faint glow and water trickling down and running out the drain. Turned out the sensor was bad and wasn't telling the main board it needed to defrost. I would try the sensor if you are having the same issues before spending a lot of money on the main board, defrost heater and or timer.

had to replace copper water line to valve

I ordered the valve, which came only a day later. Mine is really simple because it only has one water line and one electrical plug in. I do not have a separate water filter. First, I unplugged the refrigerator and shut off the water supply. I unscrewed the cardboard piece from the lower part of the back of the fridge and freed the valve. I pulled out the top water tube that goes from the valve to the top of the fridge, that connects into the back of the ice maker. That tube was empty and dry - I blew through it to make sure that it was unobstructed, and it was. No water was getting to that tube at all. I pulled out the plugs from the valve, and unscrewed the water line from the valve and let that drain in the bucket. I had drained as much water in the lines as I could by flushing a toilet and turning on the sink until it seemed the water supply that was left in the pipes was low. Then I just did the reverse putting together everything with the new valve. I screwed back in the water line that runs from the wall to the fridge. I pushed in the water hose line into the valve until it was all the way in. It was uneven and frayed at the end of that thin hose line, so I cut it very straight across the bottom so it would be entirely flush when it was pushed all the way into the valve. Then I inserted the plug back into the new valve. I put everything back in place, plugged in the fridge and turned on the water supply. I had left the fridge out off the wall so I could check for any leaking. I left it overnight and by morning I had ice! It was so easy. My only difficulty was pulling out the thin water hose from the valve. I did not realize that you can push down on the circular rim and the hose just slips out. I think I saved a lot of money.

no brainer,watched the video,worst thing was to thaw the freezer,it was realy frosted,works like new,very happy thank you.

it was simple just place the old glass in the frame,there was two plastic parts that come off the old frame and go on the new one but that was easy ,you just gotta be careful as not to brake them while taking them off.