GTS22SBXARSS General Electric Refrigerator - Instructions

pull out the slide pan lh and replace for the part

Unplugged the refrigerator first....then on the inside of the fridge, I popped the temp sensor cover off (upper LH side) and exposed the old sensor. I snipped off the old sensor about 3" down from the end and connected the new sensor (which I trimmed down to about 3" long) with some heat shrink wire nuts/connectors. Let the fridge run for a day or so and confirmed the problem was solved! Oh yeah, there was no way to tell the 2 wires apart (power vs. ground) on the sensor. However there was a manufacturer's stamp on the wires. So note the orientation of the text and mark one of the wires with a sharpie on both the old and new sensor before trimming. This will give you a reference for which wires to connect when adding the new sensor to the old wires.

Took out shelf, unscrewed old track, screwed on new track. Only thing is not a standard flat or Phillips screw head so if you don't have a star head bit, you are out of luck.

I took the pan out, replaced the bar with the new part - slide pan RH - and I was back in business. It couldn't have been easier.

It was very tricky getting the old piece out, even though it was partially broken... I ended up snapping the old piece to remove it. Trying to install the new track with the glass shelf above was not working at all, but once I removed the glass shelf above it, the new piece went in pretty easily. With the glass shelf out, I could angle the track upward to get it into position. In retrospect, I should have removed the glass shelf from the start... it would have made removal of the old piece much easier.

I unscrewed two brackets on each side (Had to buy the correct little screw driver) and screwed in the new ones.Easy!

Remove entire shelf from refrigerator and removed broke, set the replacement part in place, screwed it in and it worked perfectly, done infive minutes. Took me longer to take out the self that to do the replacement.

My snack tray guide rail cracked and this was the easiest repair I've ever made.

Went to Sears, where I bought the Fridge, they could not locate the part I needed, so I went on line, and found partselect.com, entered the proper information, found the part I needed fast, ordered the part, received it in two days time, I already had the old part off, so it took less than ten minutes to replace it with the new part, works great, the people at partselect.com were great, an if needed, I will gladly order from them again.

changed sensors did not repair problem,replaced damper with mechanical damper fixed problem.

took out shelves and removed the back plate my removing 2 screws with a nutdriver.removed the old defrost timer and defrost heater which was really easy.then installed the new ones.the video i watched on the website was really helpfull.

Unplugged refrigerator and removed rear cover. Removed the two attaching cap screws from the mounting bracket. Removed fan blade by sliding it off the shaft, disconnected wiring plug and removed the motor. Removed the rubber grommets from the old motor and installed on the new unit. Set the new unit in place and reinstall the fan blade, mounting bracket and screw into place. Reconnect the wiring harness. To replace the relay, simply remove the wire clip from the relay cover, slide the relay off the connecting pins on the compressor and disconnect the wires. Slide the new relay into place, reconnect the wires and replace the cover.

1. Removed and tested defrost heater, tests good. 2. Reinstalled defrost heater. 3. Removed and tested defrost over-temperature sensor, tests good. 4. Reinstalled over-temperature sensor using soldering iron, dielectric silicone grease, and heat-shrink tubing. 5. Removed the control printed circuit board and checked for blown fuse's, fuse's are all good. 6. Removed the defrost relay from the printed circuit board using soldering iron, bench tested the relay, it is good. 7. Soldered defrost relay back onto the circuit board, and reinstalled control board. 8. Removed and bench tested evaporator thermistor, the resistance is out of specification, ordered new thermister. 9. Installed new thermistor using soldering iron, dielectric silicone grease, and heat-shrink tubing. 10. Re-assembled refrigerator. 11. Installed temperature monitoring and recording instrumentation for 72 hour test. The defrost cycle is running correctly with a defrost termination temperature of around 90 deg-f. The defrost cycle ran twice while running the 72 hour test. 11. Removed test instrumentation and Put the unit back into service, The thermistor was the culprit. I bought the right part on the first shot, nice.

Had to remove all the covers and fans to expose the condenser, which was difficult as the parts were frozen to it. The styrofoam covering the condenser made it almost impossible to defrost it. Therefore, I ripped the styrofoam off to expose the condenser. Was not really difficult to fix the styrofoam cover using metal tape. Replaced temperature sensor in aluminum block, and used butyl sealant to secure. Had to also re-install parts of ice-ball kit that were not well covered. Lots of parts to keep track of, but anyone could do it.

I have a GE Profile French door refrig. It's only about 4 yrs old and the defroster stopped working. I read the other repair stories and was able to narrow it down to either the temp sensor, defrost timer, or main board. The refrig section was up to about 47 degrees and freezer was around 25. I could tell it was trying to cool but couldn't. So I tried the temp sensor first. I cut and spliced the new sensor on the outlet of the Evap. Coil and it took about 15 mins. Turned refrig back on and waited. The coil started to ice over after about 5 hrs I left the back panel off so I could see if and when then heater kicked on. After about 8 hrs I looked in and saw a faint glow and water trickling down and running out the drain. Turned out the sensor was bad and wasn't telling the main board it needed to defrost. I would try the sensor if you are having the same issues before spending a lot of money on the main board, defrost heater and or timer.