GTH18ECTZRBB General Electric Refrigerator - Instructions

Inspected freezer because food was not freezing, getting cold, but not freezing. Noticed fan was not blowing air, but making a little motor noise, like it's trying to turn. Removed cover panel, and found the fan blade rubbing on the panel, fan shaft was worn out and very loose, wobley. That told me the fan needed to be replaced. Found part on the GE Partselect website and ordered the parts via the website order process. This was easy. The parts were shipped quickley and were at my front door the next day. Couldn't believe it. The actual process was very easy: Remove cover, remove bracket holding fan motor, remove and replace motor, re-assemble parts. About 20-25 minutes from start to finish. Freezer is working like it's suppose to.

To remove the temp sensor.2 Phillip head screws not remove the cover inside fridge .the temp control knob cover.removed that and unplugged switch.installed new switch.reinstalled cover.

Click shelf into place!

Just popped them in their slots. Very easy and it made my refrigerator brand new again.. Thank you

I order the small part and installed it myself, it was very easy with "part select". I will refer them and use them in the future. Thanks parts select.

unplugged the old valve and disconnected the water line, then reconnected water line on new valve and plugged it in. It was an easy process but unfortunately that did not fix the problem. It is the ice maker it self so I will be ordering a replacement ice maker.

I ordered the new part from PartSelect and it was delivered very quickly. I removed the part from the box, laid the old glass shelf inside if it and placed it in the fridge. No tools required, and then slid the vegetable drawers into it and replaced the food. Very satisfied with my purchase experience.

Went right on

replaced lights in refrigirator and freezer

I first washed old shelf to make sure glass will easily slip out. Installed old glass and replaced.

The overload protector was the problem. It plugs into the side of the compressor and the run capacitor plugs into it.

If you pull the overload protector and it rattles when you shake it, that's probably your diagnosis.

The replacement is different from the original and the wire connectors are different. Hold the thing in the same orientation as if it were plugged in. The vertical connector goes to the neutral wire, which on my fridge is orange. The horizontal connector is for the overload, which for mine is black and white. If you have a schematic you should verify the wires yourself.

Anyway, the refrigerator now works like new.

I popped out the old plastic shelf and slid in the new one. It was self explanatory and took less than one minute with no tools.

Removed the old water valve from back of refrigerator by using a screwdriver. Pulled water line off old valve that runs into the fridge and inserted it into the new part. I used a pair of pliers to take off water line that runs into the water valve from the house. Screwed the water line back onto the new valve. Took about 10 minutes.

Easy

I'm not a DIY-er, and wasn't sure a 20 year old refrigerator was worth the repair, but for $30 I could afford to be wrong. The swap is pretty intuitive, especially in my case since the problem was that the water tube from the valve to the ice maker had detached from the coupling. So I didn't have to cut anything off, just inserted the tube into the new valve. Reconnected the supply line, screwed the assembly back on the refer, and Bob's your uncle. Other than unloading some canned goods to lighten the refer, longest process was finding the right size nut driver in my disorganized tool tray. Be aware, there are NO instructions included with the part. Found a good video on you tube that confirmed the obvious. Glad I took a shot!