GTR16BBSFLWW General Electric Refrigerator - Instructions

Took old shelf out, put new one in. Not rocket science. Really really simple

Removed old shelf & put in new one.
It fit perfectly and looks nicer than the
original one. Also seems like it will be
easier to keep clean.

Removed the drawers.Took out old cover by tilting up,Put New cover back on Tilting again to set it in ,brought it down on its rests and replaced the drawers.

I pulled out the old one and slid in the new one. Doesn't get any easier, but I have learned for future reference that beer in the crisper equals cracked vegetable pan.

I simply removed the old cover and replaced it with the new one! Fit was perfect. Thanks!

Took old cover off, put new cover in.

it was slowing cracking for a long time, and repairs with duct tape and crazy glue were a futile attempt to avoid the inevitable; a new part altogether! Well a few moments searching your site for the exact piece were all that was needed. With 48 hours of placing the order I had it in my apartment and just slipped it into place! it was a piece of cake!Thank you so much!

same

Set it, and forget it. That easy.

The new one not only arrived faster than I expected but it was also a lot sturdier, nice shape and the fridge looks cleaner. Also it offers better support for what I store right on it.

We thought we would have to replace our frig, but found the part online and it fit perfectly. It's slightly different than the original because it is stronger. All we did was remove the items from the tray, unsnap the broken one and slide the new one into place.

Using plyers Pulled old switch down and out. Put new one in and pushed new switch up into position. The switch plugs into the contacts, no wiring needed. Worked like a charm. You saved me 200 dollars GE repair bill. Thanks

My brother-in-law is a 15 year refrigeration technician who I called and described the problem to. He told me to put an "amp clamp" on the line side of the wires (black) that go to the starting controls on the side of the compressor. The motor has a label that has a number on it (LRA) that he used to determine the max amps it would pull. In this case, if the motor pulled 10 amps, then the motor was bad and I'd have to buy a new refrigerator. It was pulling less then 9 amps so he thought to buy a new overload, since the capacitor checked out (measured by multi-meter). As soon as the part came, I removed the back panel (4 screws removed by nut driver), removed the clip that holds the overload/capacitor assembly, detached the two wires from it, and removed the capacitor from the overload. I swapped in the new overload and repeated the above process in reverse. The only difficulty was that the new part was different in that the plug-in locations for the two wires were in different locations, and not marked. I had to disassemble the old part to figure out how it worked so I could deduce how the new one plugged in. Once that was solved, it was a quick fix. This was not a repair that just anyone could do; it required someone with a lot of experience to help me, and I am an engineer.

Defrost timer is hidden in the control panel in the refrigerator top middle. Turn to off and remove two screws which are hidden behind white tabs. I had to pry the old timer from the plug with a screw driver because it was tight. Try not to short across the terminals. Plug in the new timer. Replace it in the clip where you got old one and reinstall the controls. The freezer was still all frosted up so I had to remove the cover and defrost it with a hair dryer to get it to work. Then I turned it on and it works great.

I took it right out of the framed box to keep the gasket in shape and snapped it back on the gasket mount on the freezer door it took 5 minutes or less perfect fit