GTS18CCSFLWW General Electric Refrigerator - Instructions

Took the bracket out of box and install it like the video showed me..very easy to install..

The icemaker arm disconnected from the metal frame. This caused the icemaker to cycle and the heater to come on and stay on until the plastic parts melted causing a mess and stink. This action melted the ice and then the water fell through the frozen items in the freezer and refreezed in the lower portion. OK, I remover the dead icemaker and tossed it away. I installed the new icemaker and the wiring harness didn't fit right (way to long). I retrieved the old icemaker and removed the wiring harness from it. I removerd the new ice maker and installed the old wiring harness to the new icemaker. I then installed the new icemaker, plugged it in and turned on the power. No water, I ordered the dual solenoid water valve, installed it with difficulty (another story) the turned on the power. I reinstalled the ice bin and found it didn't fit. The icemaker was to low and couldn't be adjusted, 1/4" higher would have been great. I shoved in the bin anyway, I was out of ice for my scotch, and it started making ice.

Removed the door by removing the two screws holding it on. Do not try to do this repair with the door attached. Easily removed the old gasket. Getting the new one on the door was EXTREMELY difficult. I couldn't do it. After 90 minutes, I gave up and called my appliance repairman. When he arrived, he and I worked together to get the new gasket on the door. It took 2 sets of hands to do this. It still took us about 40 minutes. My repairman had a few choice words about the design of the system holding the gasket on the door. Ditto for me. So the cost of my repair was doubled because I had to pay the repairman to help me attach the new gasket. I should have just bought a new fridge.

Replace temperature control. That fixed it. Also, removed plastic bag obstructing air vent in freezer which added performance. Fridge works good now.

I found instructions on the web about how to do this repair, so I ordered the part with confidence. But the instructions simply said "pull out the old switchlight". That was actually somewhat difficult as the clip on the side intended to hold the part in was stubborn. I eventually used a utility to slice off the clip. From that point, it was just a matter of plugging in the new switchlight , which was very simple.

Just popped them in their slots. Very easy and it made my refrigerator brand new again.. Thank you

Replaced icemaker assembly. Only 3 Phillips screws to remove the old assembly. Pretty much an exact swap. Was easy to replace but the connecting cable on the new replacement assembly wasn't very easy to make fit. Had to force it into a location that would be out of the way and allow everything to operate properly. That connecting cable should be more flexible and adapt to the fridge a little more friendly.

Went right on

replaced lights in refrigirator and freezer

Unplug refrigerator and turn water supply off to the ice maker. Remove the screws holding the bottom cardboard-like cover from the lower back of the refrigerator. Remove the water supply line to the old solenoid with 1/2 inch wrench. Unplug the two power supply wires to the old solenoid. Remove the screw that holds the solenoid to the back panel of the unit. After the solenoid is pulled out, remove the output hose with a 1/2 inch wrench. The configuration of the replacement solenoid is likely a little different than the original, but it seems to be rather universal and will fit back into place and perform properly. The new solenoid does not use a compression type nut to secure the output line. It's just a simple push-in connection. The wires may have to be rerouted a little, just keep them clear of the evaporator fan blades Reverse the removal procedure and you're done.

Remove ice maker out of fridge; remove 3 screws
replace defective part re-install all components 30 minutes later " magic ice again. Very easy repair most important low cost. Thanks "Parts Select"

Other than having to bend the bracket 90 degrees it was an easy install.

First I removed the assembly by pulling it out of the back of the refrigerator at freezer height. Remove the clip from the old housing. I had already purchased the sticky pad that went on the back of the housing when I replace. After replacing your clip back onto the waterholes you could push it back into the refrigerator with no problem.

0. As a safety precaution, unplug the range or hit the relevant fuse breaker before you start. You might also want to grab a flashlight. Definitely do not try to do this while the oven is hot.
1. Pinch the wire over the light bulb cap to remove it. This is inside the oven at the back.
2. Pop off the hemispherical glass cap.
3. Unscrew the old light bulb, and screw the new light bulb in its place.
4. Put the cap back.
5. Secure the cap by putting the wire back in its slots on the cap.

No tools needed, the cap is just held in place with pressure from the wire.

The overload protector was the problem. It plugs into the side of the compressor and the run capacitor plugs into it.

If you pull the overload protector and it rattles when you shake it, that's probably your diagnosis.

The replacement is different from the original and the wire connectors are different. Hold the thing in the same orientation as if it were plugged in. The vertical connector goes to the neutral wire, which on my fridge is orange. The horizontal connector is for the overload, which for mine is black and white. If you have a schematic you should verify the wires yourself.

Anyway, the refrigerator now works like new.