GTS18CCSFLWW General Electric Refrigerator - Instructions

The repair only required removing nthe old cover and installing the new one. What I was really surprised about is the time for delevery. I ordered the part on Friday morning around 11 AM and it was delevered by Fed Ex at 8:30 AM on Saturday morning. I am not sure how many locations they have, but this must have been close to Harrisburg, Pa.

First, remove the cardboard cover on the back, lower portion of the refrigerator.

Next, locate the condensor fan motor assembly and blade. (Right side as you are facing)

Using a pliers, hold the shaft to keep it from turning and prevent damage to the motor. Using a screwdriver, slide the old ring compression on the blade shaft toward the motor (away from the fan blades) to loosen.

Remove old blade from the shaft by firmly grasping the motor shaft with a pliers (to prevent from damaging) and pull the blade assembly off.

Reverse the above steps to attach the new blade.

Just popped them in their slots. Very easy and it made my refrigerator brand new again.. Thank you

Click shelf into place!

To remove the temp sensor.2 Phillip head screws not remove the cover inside fridge .the temp control knob cover.removed that and unplugged switch.installed new switch.reinstalled cover.

Replaced icemaker assembly. Only 3 Phillips screws to remove the old assembly. Pretty much an exact swap. Was easy to replace but the connecting cable on the new replacement assembly wasn't very easy to make fit. Had to force it into a location that would be out of the way and allow everything to operate properly. That connecting cable should be more flexible and adapt to the fridge a little more friendly.

Replaced temp controller

Did the repair just as the instruction said, once I read it. The part I didn't read was that if the plug was under the ice maker, you had to take the wire out of the clip on the side. So, had to dismount ice maker, unclip wire, remount maker, plug it in. Still under 30 minutes. Thank you.

Installation could not have been easier!

First removed the two screws that holds the old ice maker in place. Unplugged it. The freezer compartment was too narrow to allow the unit to slide out or turn in any other direction. Had to also remove the two front screws from the left side ice bin track and swing it down. The door opening was also too tight. Scratched the plastic door jamb putting the new unit in but other than that all is well and functioning well.

First I removed the assembly by pulling it out of the back of the refrigerator at freezer height. Remove the clip from the old housing. I had already purchased the sticky pad that went on the back of the housing when I replace. After replacing your clip back onto the waterholes you could push it back into the refrigerator with no problem.

I'm not a DIY-er, and wasn't sure a 20 year old refrigerator was worth the repair, but for $30 I could afford to be wrong. The swap is pretty intuitive, especially in my case since the problem was that the water tube from the valve to the ice maker had detached from the coupling. So I didn't have to cut anything off, just inserted the tube into the new valve. Reconnected the supply line, screwed the assembly back on the refer, and Bob's your uncle. Other than unloading some canned goods to lighten the refer, longest process was finding the right size nut driver in my disorganized tool tray. Be aware, there are NO instructions included with the part. Found a good video on you tube that confirmed the obvious. Glad I took a shot!

Remove ice maker out of fridge; remove 3 screws
replace defective part re-install all components 30 minutes later " magic ice again. Very easy repair most important low cost. Thanks "Parts Select"

The overload protector was the problem. It plugs into the side of the compressor and the run capacitor plugs into it.

If you pull the overload protector and it rattles when you shake it, that's probably your diagnosis.

The replacement is different from the original and the wire connectors are different. Hold the thing in the same orientation as if it were plugged in. The vertical connector goes to the neutral wire, which on my fridge is orange. The horizontal connector is for the overload, which for mine is black and white. If you have a schematic you should verify the wires yourself.

Anyway, the refrigerator now works like new.

thats what I did is remove the teo screws and took the old single outlet valve out. And put the new one in and put the screws back in. First turned off the water and put the water back on after I was threw and no leaks.