GSS20GEZACC General Electric Refrigerator - Instructions

Shut off water supply line to refrigerator, place towel or rag under corner of refrigerator where unit is located (to catch spillage when lines are disconnected). Remove back cover with 1/4" nut driver /loosen inlet line compression nut while unit is still attached(easier to loosen now than when unit is floating around loose)/remove unit from fridge then disconnect line and wires. Reverse process to install. Water lines going to water dispenser&icemaker are marked/wire connections are idiot proof. Check for leaks before pushing fridge back to wall. Thats not idiot proof!

i removed srews from area until i could access the fan unit and removed it. wires were not identical so i had to splice some together, most likely could not have been avoided. the exploded parts diagram helped me to be sure that i would have all replacement parts on hand so i wouldn't have to wait for something i had forgotten.

I had to call for a appointment for repair with GE Appliance because I thought then it . .was something electrical. The technician came out & checked everything out, turned out it was not electrical, The technician went out to his truck got a light bulb from his truck, put it in & it worked. It cost me $121.00 for trip charge from GE appliance for a light bulb that worked, your light bulbs were defective twice. Very disappointed with your products, cost me alot of money for a good light bulb thru GE appliance

removed 3 screws with 1/4 " nut driver, unplugged 2 plugs by prying out on side tabs, removed bracket and motor. Used vice grips to hold motor shaft and used screwdriver to turn auger fork clockwise and remove. Unplugged two connectors from motor. removed 3 screws with 1/4" nut driver to remove motor. changed rubber boot from old motor to new. Reversed procedures to install new motor on bracket, auger fork, bracket in freezer, etc. Only difficulty getting both hands in narrow freezer compartment. Still didn't work, called repairman. When he got here I showed him the problem and lo and behold, now it would not dispense water. He diagnosed it as a bad motherboard, replaced it and all good now. Motherboard $150, diagnose and labor $90, but it is all good now and I even have a spare motor. The failing mother board causes strange howling noises at times and we discovered the compressor fan had also stopped working and in a short while I would have had a bad problem. Caught it just in time!!!

Removed panel from inside the back of the freezer section, by removing four screws. Then, sprayed the ice build-up on the coils, with hot water until all of the ice was melted away. (Note: be certain to plug the drain hole, and use several towels to catch the water drainage. ) Removed the Defrost Heater Element by removing two holding screws. Unplug the unit and pluged-in the new unit and replaced all screws as originally mounted.

After removing three screws on the ice bucket, it basicly came apart by itself. I needed to use pliers to remove the old nut because it had over tightened itself onto the shaft. Be careful here - it is a left hand nut - not a normal right hand nut! Reassembly was a snap putting the parts back together in reverse order. Unit has been working great since the repair.

By reading another customers tip I decided that my problem was the exact same. I had to order the entire motor not just the auger because the motor shaft was stripped. Once you remove the motor, hold the shaft with a pair of vise grips and use a screw driver to turn the auger off clockwise. The threads are reversed. The new auger screws easily onto the new motor counterclockwise and installing back into the fridge was a snap.

The repaire guy came in tooke it out and told me it is goin to coast $20 for the part and $50 for the labor..... So I looked, It was soooo eeezzz ALL you have to do is get the switch out( with help of my butter knife :) it plugs in to a little outlet on the wire (on the botom side) so take out the old one and plug in the new one wich I got for $8 + $6 shipping = $15 THANK YOU PART SELECT for saving me $55 Im a 36 y/o stayathome mom and Ihave never don this before, Im very proud of my self. well... it was very easy!

Existing instructions on the site for this repair were very helpful. They just needed a little more detail: "After removing the front cover to the control panel..." Figuring out how to do this took the most time. I finally pried at the bottom with a screwdriver and it snapped out. Next time I'll know to lift at the bottom right and left sides. The existing instructions said to unplug the three connectors. I should have done that; it would have made the job much easier. Instead I let the control panel dangle. That meant I also had to set the ice and water lock to avoid drenching myself. The rest of the job went as the original instructions suggested.

Remove back panel on bottom of fridge to access compressor area. Remove screws from water solenoid and water valve and push to the side so the side of the compressor can be accessed. Then locate the inverter box. You will find a Phillips head screw on the bottom of the inverter. This is the only screw that hold the inverter in place. Remove the screw and tilt the inverter box forward away from the compressor, then lift the box out of the the holder. You may have to wiggle it a bit to get it out. Remove the plug that attaches to the compressor and then with the power on check your voltage coming to the compressor. It should read 120 volt. If it doesn’t your inverter is bad. Remove the other plug on the inverter box and pull the box out.
Reinstall the unit in reverse order. Use the appropriate jumper to plug into the wire connection going to box and then plug it into the connection off the fridge.
Once everything is reinstalled and before you put the back panel on plug your refrigerator back in and you should be able to hear the compressor working or feel the top of it to make sure. If it’s working you are good and can reinstall the back panel.
It will take 4-5 hours to come back to temp if it’s been off for any length of time.

I followed the isntructions of another fellow who had repaired his ice maker, but made the mistake of taking the ice crushers apart before noting where the fixed blades were to be reassembled. Since there was not a schematic with the part I had to go on line to your site and enlarge and use the one there, while accurate, was very hard to read and when I finished, I think it is in the wrong place as I'm not able to get the fineness of crushed ice I had before the repair, but absent a very legible schematic I'm not going to try to fix it further. The auger works, gives us ice cubes and half crushed cubes.
Another tip for future repairers is to to wait for the ice container to warm up or use a hair drier on the part where the tabs need to be depressed to slip off the blade housing. When cold it's extremely brittle, but since I had to leave the job for later at one point and left in on my work bench I found it much more pliable and easy to assemble.
All in all, I'm OK with the part and the result, but wish I could have gotten the fixed blade back into the right spot.

Removed tray, threw out ice , removed 3 screws used 2 screw drivers to seperate part & re installed

Removed the ice bucket and put the new ice bucket in placed
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work like a top.

Remove rear plate. Remove fan bracket. Replace fan gaskets, blade and motor. Replace bracket. Replace rear plate. Very simple. Fixed the problem.

Removed the plastic frame by pushing to the inside (all 4 sides), removed touch pad by sliding it to my right and disconnected the wires. Removed the four screws that hold the dispensing unit and replaced broken parts. Please note that I also replaced the funnel. Total cost of repair for DIY $30.00, savings by avoiding repair man, priceless.