GDS22KCWAWW General Electric Refrigerator - Instructions

removed old valve, installed the new one. ice maker back to making ice.

i swaped the valve it was very easy, but that did not take care of the proble :(

I ordered the valve, which came only a day later. Mine is really simple because it only has one water line and one electrical plug in. I do not have a separate water filter. First, I unplugged the refrigerator and shut off the water supply. I unscrewed the cardboard piece from the lower part of the back of the fridge and freed the valve. I pulled out the top water tube that goes from the valve to the top of the fridge, that connects into the back of the ice maker. That tube was empty and dry - I blew through it to make sure that it was unobstructed, and it was. No water was getting to that tube at all. I pulled out the plugs from the valve, and unscrewed the water line from the valve and let that drain in the bucket. I had drained as much water in the lines as I could by flushing a toilet and turning on the sink until it seemed the water supply that was left in the pipes was low. Then I just did the reverse putting together everything with the new valve. I screwed back in the water line that runs from the wall to the fridge. I pushed in the water hose line into the valve until it was all the way in. It was uneven and frayed at the end of that thin hose line, so I cut it very straight across the bottom so it would be entirely flush when it was pushed all the way into the valve. Then I inserted the plug back into the new valve. I put everything back in place, plugged in the fridge and turned on the water supply. I had left the fridge out off the wall so I could check for any leaking. I left it overnight and by morning I had ice! It was so easy. My only difficulty was pulling out the thin water hose from the valve. I did not realize that you can push down on the circular rim and the hose just slips out. I think I saved a lot of money.

With help from this site, It was one of three things. I thought it might be what this site suggested the most common and it was. the valve in back of refrigerator at bottom. Water comming to it, but not getting past. Ordered part. Was here in a few days. Real easy to change out. A few screw / bolts and one wire that fit only one way. I did have to bend new bracket to make it fit. Now have lots of ice cubes!

Replaced valve kit and let it run. Took a day for the fill line to thaw and has been making ice like a champ.

no brainer,watched the video,worst thing was to thaw the freezer,it was realy frosted,works like new,very happy thank you.

killed power-gently pried out old switch using two screw drivers-replaced faulty switch-and tested OK.

as per video- follow all of the videos and u r going to save a lot of money tx partselect im glad I found u guys ps only order from partselect.com they only ship the correct parts remember look at the video select the symptom and buy as per video tx again problemsolved

Followed the repair video, was spot on!!

luckly i have a bit of experience in refrigeration im an hvac technician by trade. this repair was a bit tricky in that i did not know at first if it was a Temperature Sensor issue or the main control board. I had tested the defrost termination thermostat and the defrost heater and as i suspected they were ok. Next i wanted to test the thermistors (temp sensors) it is hard to find technical data on these fridges. I needed to test the thermistors resistance @ a certian temperature to ensure they were working properly but where do u get such data? I also wanted to know some information about the logic programmed into the board (i.e when do you initiate defrost etc. . .). I had no such luck so i figured since i tested the defrost heater and thermostat and they were ok and all of the evap fans and such were working i'd order a circuit board and new thermistors. Got the CORRECT PARTS from this site in 2 business days and my fridge is working great! changing the parts was really easy, figuring out which parts to change was the only difficult thing about this job.

Condenser fan motor was running slow. This was not a problem included in your list of possible problems. I thought that maybe the capacitor was bad but have no way to check it. So I ordered one. when I received it, I installed it. That was not the problem. So I ordered a fan motor and installed it. That was not the problem. So finally I ordered a control board and installed it. That solved the problem. So maybe you should put "cond.fan motor runs slow" in your list of possible faults and what causes that problem. Capacitor was easy to install, simply remove the cover plate, flip off retaining wire, unplug the capacitor and replace. Fan motor was a bit more difficult. It must be removed from mount after fan scroll is removed. Remove one screw that holds scroll, bend the top down and remove. Then pull hard on fan blade to remove it. It must be installed on new motor. Two screws in frame mount can be removed with some effort if you have a 1/4" drive ratchet with a Phillips screwdriver bit. Then pull frame open and install new motor. Push fan blade on new motor shaft hard. Replacing control board was easy. I used a pair of long nose pliers with 90 degree bend to get mounting pins closed to pull board off.

Detached the old part from the refrigerator and disconnected the low voltage quick connect. Also disconnected the water line to the Ice Maker. Reinstalled the new part in the order it was disconnected and re attached the water line feed to the valve threaded connection. Turned water on and no problems.

I have a GE Profile French door refrig. It's only about 4 yrs old and the defroster stopped working. I read the other repair stories and was able to narrow it down to either the temp sensor, defrost timer, or main board. The refrig section was up to about 47 degrees and freezer was around 25. I could tell it was trying to cool but couldn't. So I tried the temp sensor first. I cut and spliced the new sensor on the outlet of the Evap. Coil and it took about 15 mins. Turned refrig back on and waited. The coil started to ice over after about 5 hrs I left the back panel off so I could see if and when then heater kicked on. After about 8 hrs I looked in and saw a faint glow and water trickling down and running out the drain. Turned out the sensor was bad and wasn't telling the main board it needed to defrost. I would try the sensor if you are having the same issues before spending a lot of money on the main board, defrost heater and or timer.

removed the back cover about 7 screws then removed the fan shroud the top part folds down and then slide to the right and angle down. remove to two screws holding the motor in spread apart the plastic housing to remove the wire connector. unclip connector .

Unplugged unit and removed vented cover over compressor section. The run capacitor is a simple fix 1 Phillips head screw and 2 spade wire connectors. For the temperature sensor I had to remove all drawers and the ice maker to remove the back cover to expose the condenser. Put a bowl at the drain stem in the rear of the unit and used a heat gun to defrost the coils on the condenser. Cut the wire about 3" from the sensor end . cut about the same off the new sensor stripped the wires put shrink wrap on each wire, attached butt connecors . heat gun for the shrink wrap and reassembled everything. Simple job that took about a half hour to do both. I will monitor the fridge for a couple of weeks to see if I need to change the control board.