GDSC0KBXCRBB General Electric Refrigerator - Instructions

changed sensors did not repair problem,replaced damper with mechanical damper fixed problem.

Replace defrost termostat and temperature sensor

Replaced top sensor in ref. and top sensor in freezer as well as defrost thermostat - works as advertised - easy fix, saved a bundle thanks to this site! Parts ordered and shipped quickly and without complications!

My brother-in-law is a 15 year refrigeration technician who I called and described the problem to. He told me to put an "amp clamp" on the line side of the wires (black) that go to the starting controls on the side of the compressor. The motor has a label that has a number on it (LRA) that he used to determine the max amps it would pull. In this case, if the motor pulled 10 amps, then the motor was bad and I'd have to buy a new refrigerator. It was pulling less then 9 amps so he thought to buy a new overload, since the capacitor checked out (measured by multi-meter). As soon as the part came, I removed the back panel (4 screws removed by nut driver), removed the clip that holds the overload/capacitor assembly, detached the two wires from it, and removed the capacitor from the overload. I swapped in the new overload and repeated the above process in reverse. The only difficulty was that the new part was different in that the plug-in locations for the two wires were in different locations, and not marked. I had to disassemble the old part to figure out how it worked so I could deduce how the new one plugged in. Once that was solved, it was a quick fix. This was not a repair that just anyone could do; it required someone with a lot of experience to help me, and I am an engineer.

followed part select video instructions

Followed the repair video, was spot on!!

luckly i have a bit of experience in refrigeration im an hvac technician by trade. this repair was a bit tricky in that i did not know at first if it was a Temperature Sensor issue or the main control board. I had tested the defrost termination thermostat and the defrost heater and as i suspected they were ok. Next i wanted to test the thermistors (temp sensors) it is hard to find technical data on these fridges. I needed to test the thermistors resistance @ a certian temperature to ensure they were working properly but where do u get such data? I also wanted to know some information about the logic programmed into the board (i.e when do you initiate defrost etc. . .). I had no such luck so i figured since i tested the defrost heater and thermostat and they were ok and all of the evap fans and such were working i'd order a circuit board and new thermistors. Got the CORRECT PARTS from this site in 2 business days and my fridge is working great! changing the parts was really easy, figuring out which parts to change was the only difficult thing about this job.

Little difficult getting the switch out, had to pry wth some force. New installation was real easy.

I have a GE Profile French door refrig. It's only about 4 yrs old and the defroster stopped working. I read the other repair stories and was able to narrow it down to either the temp sensor, defrost timer, or main board. The refrig section was up to about 47 degrees and freezer was around 25. I could tell it was trying to cool but couldn't. So I tried the temp sensor first. I cut and spliced the new sensor on the outlet of the Evap. Coil and it took about 15 mins. Turned refrig back on and waited. The coil started to ice over after about 5 hrs I left the back panel off so I could see if and when then heater kicked on. After about 8 hrs I looked in and saw a faint glow and water trickling down and running out the drain. Turned out the sensor was bad and wasn't telling the main board it needed to defrost. I would try the sensor if you are having the same issues before spending a lot of money on the main board, defrost heater and or timer.

watch you tube demo how to do it.

I replaced both the Defrost Thermostat and the Temperature Sensor located on the top of the cooling coils. I ordered them because they were the least expensive items that addressed my problem. They did not correct my problem. I then ordered the Main Control circuit board. I installed the board in about 15 minutes. Finally my freezer returned to the set temperature of 0 degrees F. Problem solved

Open up the freezer make shore the fan is running/unplug the unit take out the Shelf,s take a 1/4 inch nut driver and take the back panel out pull out the ice box pull up on the back panel and pull it out to expose the coil it should be blocked with ice if it is take a blow dryer and defrost it unplug the fan and push it up. On top of the coil you will fiend the defrost timer take your hand and unstrap it and pull it out. Cut the wires and strip the wires back enough take the new part and wire nut the wires together and tape with electrical tape and put back on the coil. Put every thing back together your dun plug the unit in and wait over night if you can to let every thing cool.

replace sensor in refriger.

Remove the shelves then remove the back by removing the two screws at the top of the panel. Locate the temperature sensor on top of the coil. Cut the wires and replace with the new one. Use wire nuts and electrical tape to reconnect the wires.

I watched the videos before I received my parts. I thawed the freezer out, removed the panel in the back. Cut the wires to the defrost thermostat and spliced the new one on with wire nuts and tape. Then I did the same for the temp. sensor. Put it all back together. Now the freezer isn't running all the time. I set the temperatures back to normal and it seams to be fine.