GBSL0HCXCLLS General Electric Refrigerator - Instructions

turn off water. turn off electricity. empty freezer section of frozen food. remove ice bucket. loosen two screws holding IM to wall of refrigerator. lift off icemaker, and then unplug it as you remove it. INSTALL new IM by: putting new water funnel onto new IM. attaching adapter cord to IM. plug in IM electrical cord to refrigerator and then hang the new IM onto the two loosened screws on the refrig wall. Now tighten the two screws. the extra adapter electrical cord hangs below the new IM, but does not get in the way when you reinstall old ice bucket. reload food, turn on elec and water. PS. i had a crack in the casing of the new IM, so i got a new one, but that one was cracked too. so i just installed the second cracked one. hope it is not a problem.

REplaced old icemaker with a new one. Install simple, However that was not the problem. I then replaced the water valve. Still no ice. I check the electric connection was OK. THe problem was the elbow fitting on the top back of the refrigerater leading to the icemaker was blocked with ice.Cleared it and turned water faucet up all the way. Ice maker worked.

Watched video on website then removed old ice maker. New one went in without any problems. Working great. I am a 60 year old woman and had never done anything like this but so easy. Husband scared now, doesn't know what project I will take on next.

The video on the site was very helpful. The repair was really easy. It was exactly the way the video showed how to do it. I would definitely use this site again to find parts, figure out the "how-to", and use for skematics of appliances. Thanks.

The instruction video was great, mine was easy than even the video showed it to be. I changed it out in less than 15 minutes and it works great. The niocve things I didn't have to wait for a repairman or my husband to fix the problem.

install icemaker water was allways delivered to previous unit water is not being delivered to icemaker still having difficulty

Using plyers Pulled old switch down and out. Put new one in and pushed new switch up into position. The switch plugs into the contacts, no wiring needed. Worked like a charm. You saved me 200 dollars GE repair bill. Thanks

Followed the video demo and would have been done sooner but for limited work space- narrow freezer compartment and the release tabs on the electrical plug. First home repair that the air was not blue and got done in under time allocated.

Instructions that came with the part were useless. I would have created new problems if I had attempted to follow the instructions. However, once I had the old part removed and put it beside the new part, required repair process was obvious, easy and quick. Frig now makes ice better than it ever did.

Reviewed video which was very helpful. Loosened two philips head screws, lifted up ice maker, unpluged power suppy and reinstalled. One of the easiest replacements ever!!

Went well. Changed the Ice Maker and then the Water Valve. All good and it is making ice.

Little difficult getting the switch out, had to pry wth some force. New installation was real easy.

I looked up appliance on internet,diagram only showed the inlet valve and ice maker in schematic.I ck'd to see if water was getting to valve(it was)but wasn't getting to ice maker,thus I replaced the valve and it solved the problem.

Seemed simple and intuitive B U T the water tube receiver fooled me. Seemed to be on backwards. So, like my wife suggested, I D I D then read the installation instructions. Yeah! It's amazing what you can do when you just RTI. :-0

My brother-in-law is a 15 year refrigeration technician who I called and described the problem to. He told me to put an "amp clamp" on the line side of the wires (black) that go to the starting controls on the side of the compressor. The motor has a label that has a number on it (LRA) that he used to determine the max amps it would pull. In this case, if the motor pulled 10 amps, then the motor was bad and I'd have to buy a new refrigerator. It was pulling less then 9 amps so he thought to buy a new overload, since the capacitor checked out (measured by multi-meter). As soon as the part came, I removed the back panel (4 screws removed by nut driver), removed the clip that holds the overload/capacitor assembly, detached the two wires from it, and removed the capacitor from the overload. I swapped in the new overload and repeated the above process in reverse. The only difficulty was that the new part was different in that the plug-in locations for the two wires were in different locations, and not marked. I had to disassemble the old part to figure out how it worked so I could deduce how the new one plugged in. Once that was solved, it was a quick fix. This was not a repair that just anyone could do; it required someone with a lot of experience to help me, and I am an engineer.