CFCP1NIYCSS General Electric Refrigerator - Instructions

I still have not be able to replace the sensor as I've been unable to locate any info, or figure out where it is located. The water valve was easy to replace and took less than a half hour

After looking further into your website I found all the info, diagrams and instructions to replace the Temp Sensor, which was not too involved, thank you. Now to wait and see if this was the cause and my Refrigerator is up and running again

Had to turn off water and remove back panel and with a few tools the part was off and the new part put on in less that 30 minutes!! Finding parts on your website were easily found.

After de-energized unit (by removing electical plug from outlet),I removed the rear panel at bottom of unit. I then removed the mounting screw to the water valve. I then disconnected the wiring assembly from the old unit. I then removed the water supply lines going to the icemaker and water filter. I then placed the water supply into the replacement water valve. plugged in wiring assembly to new unit and rehung water valve inside refrig. Turned water valve on at water supply to check for leaks, finding none I then replaced back panel on refridge and plugged in electrical cord and returned refrige to normal place in kitchen.

First I hired a repairman and he said that it was in the unit and would not be worth the expense to fix.

I started to research on the net and this was one possible source. ( evaporator fan). I had to take it apart to verify it. Then put it back together to use until the part came.

The next time went much faster as I did not have to take near as many screws out to access the fan motor. Very Happy to have it working fine again as a new relacement would cost $1200. Thanks much. Ron

No self defrost. Measured heater coil with ohm meter which was OK (not open). Ordered 2 temp sensors (there are 2 in freezer, 2 in fresh food sections). The original and the new all meaured ~150 ohms. Replaced one by one. This did not fix problem. Ordered defrost thermostat. Original measured ~150 ohms - new one was ~100 ohms. Unpluged refridgerator. Removed coil panel (4 nut screws) in freezer and light cover (1 small phillips screw). Locate defrost thermostat clipped to top of coils (orange / pink wires). Cut wires and unclipped thermostat. Stripped insulation off of wires and reconnect using wire nuts. Clipped thermostat back to coils. Ran refridgerator without panel on coils to see if coils frosted up again and listend for fans/compressor to stop ( took hours). Opened freezer and viewed glow of defrost heater. Problem resolved.

Poped out with screwdriver the old swithch and unplugged the two wires. Plugged in the wires to the new swithch and pushed it back in the hole where the old switch was before.

I had lost the provided bypass filter plug. I decided to replace it with your part.

Looked up possible causes on the internet, did the trouble shooting: off wait 15 seconds, then on, hit the ice level switch 3 times. No cycling - order a new ice maker. Had already checked water supply line and water filter. Screws in difficult positions to use standard screwdrivers or if you have medium size hands to remove plastic guards. After that was easy to replace whole unit. Cut plastic guards to be able to get at mounting screws for next time. Designers definitely need to think about consumer repairing of items rather than disposable major items not built to last 10+ years.

We couldn't get the other connector loose from one end of the tubing so he said just cut it and so we did and attached the connector. I now have water again in my fridge and took the sticky note down "don't use the water" as it had leaked for a year...... Thanks!

While the switch did last for 9 years, the design is poor due to the failure mode. The failure should be to fail off or not able to turn on the lights which would be inconvenient but would not warm the refrigerator contents. Arcing at the contacts eventually caused the switch to "weld" closed. It is not obvious that this is occurring so it took some time to recognize why the temp inside the ref was high while the freezer was OK. Replacing the switch was easy once it was recognized as the problem. All that was required to replace the switch was to remove the screws holding a fiber cover and then pulling off the aluminum cap which covered the switches. Unplug the switch an squeeze the keeper on the switch to release it and pull down. Pop the replacement switch in place and plug the wires harness back in. All in all it took much less time to replace than it has to write this up. T Pope

So I replaced a burnt out defrost heater; replaced the thermostat for good measure and STILL the freezer compartment was freezing up. WHY didn't I look more closely at the ice making system sooner!!?? Thought about it for a while and decided that it had to be that the solenoid in the water valve was NOT shutting off water flow to ice maker (overflowing the icemaker and running over & down interior of freezer compartment making an icberg).

Took off about 4-5 backcover screws with one size nut driver. Moved to a size larger driver to remove 1 screw holding on the water valve. And what some people don't realize is that you can push in the connectors (push them down) and THEN pull the water lines out as long as you're careful and someone hasn't already tugged on the waterlines with some force. You don't have to cut the lines off at the valve. Put the water lines in the new valve and put one screw back in it; then 4-5 backcover screws and you're done!!! At most 15 minutes...that is if you want to clean the condensor unit located behind the backcover (on the newer models within the last 4-6 years).

EASY!!! Do it yourself and save a BUNCH of money. If you're getting a flooded freezer compartment or icebergs created in there then check whenever you hear the icemaker drawing in water and see if water is running down the interior.....problem solved!

-Unplugged the refrigerator
-Removed panel on the back of the refrigerator, bottom right.
-Took pictures of existing main board so I would know where everything plugs in.
-Unplugged and removed main control board
-Installed new main control board
-Plugged everything in.

Your website was very easy to use and the product shipped very promptly. It was great experience. Thanks!

First, I removed all the shelves and the light guard. Second, I removed the nuts that held the fan guard and the freezer back in place (2 just under the fan guard and removed the freezer back. Third, lifted fan guard out of way (being very careful not to crack it..... cold plastic). Fourth, unpugged fan from pug then removed nuts that held fan bracket in place...removed fan. fifth, then removed fan blade and remove fan motor from bracket, removed two wires that went to freezer light (pay attention to where they go) and installed them into the new wireing harness. Sixth, installed fan blade on new motor, bolted new assembly in fan bracket, plugged in and reistalled fan into the freezer, replaced fan guard and freezer back (reverse order of above) and then replaced freezer racks. works beautiful.

The existing light switch was very hard to remove. I ended up having to grab it with a pair of pliers and pull it out. Once it was out, it was very easy to put in the replacement and it seems to be working fine.