GSA20IEMDFBB General Electric Refrigerator - Instructions

all parts worked and were easy to install. probably saved me from having to buy a new fridge. ice maker is working fine and recess door flap is closing correctly. very satisfied.

We couldn't get the other connector loose from one end of the tubing so he said just cut it and so we did and attached the connector. I now have water again in my fridge and took the sticky note down "don't use the water" as it had leaked for a year...... Thanks!

The ice machine auger blade broke a chunk off. I decided to try to replace it myself. I bought the new auger blade and then sat there and stared at it and the ice machine for a few, trying to figure out how to change out the part. Turns out it was a qute lengthy process. The auger is threaded on one end and the ice chopping blades are on it. So I had to take each blade off the old one and put it on the new one. The blades have to be positioned just right on the shaft so it's best to just draw a line down over all the blades so as to put them on the new auger successfully. The problem I had was the end cap that screwed on the end of the shaft. It was the part I ordered here. It is made of plastic with plastic threads and at first I couldn't figure out to get it off. Turns out the threads are opposite normal. By the time I figured that out, I had just about destroyed the cap using pliers to try to unscrew it. There is a washer and half moon clip that fastens on this end nut so if you mess the nut up, chances are you won't be able to get the half moon clip to go back on. I finally did it right and now how the ice maker working right again. A hard part for me was figuring out how to set the spring shaft that works a lever to either give cubed ice or crushed. I had to keep fiddle with it before I finally got that right. At first I was only getting crushed ice even with the cubed setting and then only getting cubed ice with the crushed ice setting. After some fiddling, I got both to work but to this day can't figure out what changes from the crushed setting to the cubed setting.

Removed the front panel on the door that has the ice maker controls. Removed the screws and parts. Reassembled the parts and it works better than new. Ice door closes firmly and holds tight.

I removed the screws for the inner door and removed inner lining. Then took out the ice dispenser in the door. Took off control panel on the front of the ice panel. Removed the rusted parts and put in new parts. Put all parts back the way it came apart. In retrospect.... I could have possibly replaced the parts from the front panel but by taking apart the door...I had to thaw out the inner panel and insulation with in the door.

My refrigerator's initial problem was as follows:

1. Freezer fan stopped circulating the cooled air. Causing food to thaw at the top of the freezer, and freeze solid at the bottom. Ice in the icemaker thawed.

2. Water dripped from the freezer door gasket when the freezer was in defrost mode & water dispenser would not dispense water.

--FIX (the easy one first..):
2. I removed the inner freezer door panel and found ice filling every void of the freezer door panel-approx 5 lbs of ice dammed in the panel. I thawed the insulation and removed the ice. Also there is a styrofoam insulating surround around the inside of the dispenser panel. The styrofoam had become saturated with water and was freezing, allowing the drinking water tube to freeze, not allowing the refrigerator to dispense water...
THE CAUSE:
2. Overflowing of water from the in-door ice/water dispenser compartment reservoir (just under the grill where your glass sits, when it's dispensing water) was draining into the freezer door panel.
PREVENTION:
2. Check the reservoir more frequently to make sure water does not build up and overflow into the door.

FIX (now the trickier one..)
1. I initially thought it was the main circuit board. I replaced the board. Access is by removing the 3 hex nut screws holding door in place at the rear of the freezer. Disconnect connectors & using a needle nose pliers, squeezed the plastic catches that hold the board in place. Connect the new board (being careful not to touch the components or traces on the board) to the connectors, then snap into place using the white plastic catches.
Close everything up.

NOTE: This may, may not have contributed to the problem, but my refrigerator light went out. I replaced it with a small flouresent bulb. That bulb did not last, and became inop. Shortly afterward, the freezer started malfunctioning. I replaced the board, and the freezer was still somewhat intermittent. I replaced the bulb with an appliance 60 watt. The freezer has been perfect since...

Note: I first ordered the main circuit board, when that didn't immediately fix the problem, I ordered the above parts. I did not need the parts and am returning them. The web page is forcing me to select at least one of the parts needed for the repair, when I used neither.

I watched the "how-to" video on the website and decided that I needed to disassemble the icemaker first (before ordering parts) so that I could make sure I was ordering all the parts necessary for a complete repair. Good thing I did. I didn't notice the cracked cover and chipped nut until I had the icemaker all apart. I then ordered the necessary parts. When they arrived 2 days later, I set up a table near my computer so I could re-assemble the unit as I watched the repair video...pausing the video as necessary. It all went without a hitch and worked perfectly when re-installed in the freezer. **Note: I left the old parts out of the ice bucket while I was waiting for the new ones to arrive...taped up the gaping holes in the ice bucket with blue painter's masking tape and re-installed the bucket in the freezer with the icemaker on...so I could still manually retrieve ice out of the bucket. I left the switch on the front of the freezer door in the "water" position to remind me that I couldn't dispense ice. Water dispensing worked fine. The video is the key. Impossible to make a mistake if you pay attention.

While the switch did last for 9 years, the design is poor due to the failure mode. The failure should be to fail off or not able to turn on the lights which would be inconvenient but would not warm the refrigerator contents. Arcing at the contacts eventually caused the switch to "weld" closed. It is not obvious that this is occurring so it took some time to recognize why the temp inside the ref was high while the freezer was OK. Replacing the switch was easy once it was recognized as the problem. All that was required to replace the switch was to remove the screws holding a fiber cover and then pulling off the aluminum cap which covered the switches. Unplug the switch an squeeze the keeper on the switch to release it and pull down. Pop the replacement switch in place and plug the wires harness back in. All in all it took much less time to replace than it has to write this up. T Pope

Removed 3 screws from end of ice storage box,then removed auger asm.Removed c clip on end with flat screwdriver, then disasembled ice crusher blades and nylon/plastic washers.Carefully staging them for reassembly in the correct way.Use pliers to reinstall c clip after new auger is installed

removed the depenser or ice collecter disassyble,replace the new auger and install the collecter tray in freezer.the bulbs i got was for use as i needed,at a later date i have not been able to fine the ice and water depenser bulbs on the open market.

The existing light switch was very hard to remove. I ended up having to grab it with a pair of pliers and pull it out. Once it was out, it was very easy to put in the replacement and it seems to be working fine.

Pulled old assembly out, emptied ice, installed new assembly, filled with the ice already made. Less than 1 minute.
Worked like new for a week. Now, auger won't turn. Have no idea what the problem is, but I'm assuming it's the motor that turns the ice bucket auger, because the auger turns by hand. The bucket ass'y. was in need of replacement, but now I'm wondering if it was worth the money because of this new problem.

Read your instructions, which were very helpful, and followed them to install. It took a while for me to realize that the threaded cap at the end of the auger was a left-hand thread. Other than that, I had no problems.

Part arrived very fast as ordered..need to pry old switch out from top..use care to push the retainer down..after old switch was 1/2 out, I used a putty knife for better leveridge.Remove wire connector...after plugging in the wire connector to the replacement switch, make sure the switch is properly positioned so the switch will depress when door shuts.

Replaced flapper