PTS25LBMBRWW General Electric Refrigerator - Instructions
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- Customer:
- David from Barrington, IL
- Parts Used:
- WR55X10942C
- Difficulty Level:
- Really Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- 15 - 30 mins
- Tools:
- Pliers, Screw drivers
Freezer never kept a consistant temperature. One night heard a clicking noice which was followed by the temperature display showing temps like -31. Researched to find other with the same issue and ordered the replacement board to repair.
I must admit - I thought I'd attempt to do this repair and end up calling a service guy to finish it. I'm not mechanically inclined AT ALL but thought I'd give it a shot after reading others experiences. I'm glad I did. The fix was easy, but there was initial anxiety while reading the instructions that came with the part - as they mentioned the possible need to cut some wires. Fortunately that was not necessary..... Removed three screws from the rear plate to expose the part needing to be replaced. Remove the fittings from the old board (needed plyers to do that - be gentle), take the old board out by using needle nose pliers to squeeze the white plastic tabs and pull the board free. Reconnect fittings to new board and you are done. Works better now than ever - obviously the old board had an issue that GE should have recalled, as many others had the same problem.
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- Customer:
- randall from coopersville, MI
- Parts Used:
- WR55X10025
- Difficulty Level:
- Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- Less than 15 mins
- Tools:
- Pliers, Screw drivers
refriderator not cooling consistetly
1 opened door 2. pryed cover off from cieling 3.cut and stripped wires on 4. sodered wires from old wires to new sensor. 5 insulated conection.6 put cover back on. This did not fix the problem it was the control moduel.
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- Customer:
- LEE from WILMINGTON, DE
- Parts Used:
- WR55X10942C
- Difficulty Level:
- Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- Less than 15 mins
- Tools:
- Pliers
clicking nose from mother board
pulled the board away from the 4 plastic pins, unplugged the wires and plugged them directly into the new noard, pushed board back onto the four plastic pins.......job completed in under 5 minutes. Fridge working fine now for over a week......no problems.
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- Customer:
- John from Holly Springs, NC
- Parts Used:
- WR50X10068
- Difficulty Level:
- Really Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- Less than 15 mins
- Tools:
- Nutdriver
Fridge getting warer and warmer
remove back panel inside fridge freezer side, everything frosted, unplug and used a hair dryer
1. Took out defrost heater and the bottom and tested (per this site) tested OK.
2. Then looked at the defrost thermostat, it was swollen with the top coming off. so i new it was bad
3.clipped and stripped the 2 wires, spliced in the new one with wire nuts and sealed them with silicone. All better
1. Took out defrost heater and the bottom and tested (per this site) tested OK.
2. Then looked at the defrost thermostat, it was swollen with the top coming off. so i new it was bad
3.clipped and stripped the 2 wires, spliced in the new one with wire nuts and sealed them with silicone. All better
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- Customer:
- Pat from Pensacola, FL
- Parts Used:
- WR55X10942C
- Difficulty Level:
- Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- Less than 15 mins
- Tools:
- Nutdriver
No ice or water at the despenser. Compressor would turn off when the dispenser lever was pushed. There was also a loud buzzer sound for a couple of weeks prior to the board failing.
Pulled out the fridge and unplugged electric cord. Took off the back lower right side panel. Unplugged all the connectors and removed the motherboard. Replaced the motherboard and reconnected connectors. Replaced the panel and plugged it in. Works great!
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- Customer:
- Aurelio from MAYS LANDING, NJ
- Parts Used:
- WR55X10942C
- Difficulty Level:
- Very Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- Less than 15 mins
clickking sounds
Unplugged unit.. Removed control board cover.. Removed all plugs from control board then removed board its self.. Replaced in reverse order.. Unit is working as new..
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- Customer:
- esther from PELHAM, NY
- Parts Used:
- WR72X10072
- Difficulty Level:
- Very Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- Less than 15 mins
- Tools:
- Screw drivers
Deli drawer broke off, probably loaded to heavy
Removed the divided glass shelf, to which the slide rail is attached. Removed the broken rail, saved the two screws.
Now comes the clincher:
It would help if the replacement part website would tell you what size and what kind screwdriver you will need, so you could start chasing it while you wait for the part.
Even better if they could include it, since the plastic part and it‘s shipment is not exactly cheap.
So to screw in two screws you need a #15 Star screwdriver!
How many housewife’s have this one in the tool drawer?
Now comes the clincher:
It would help if the replacement part website would tell you what size and what kind screwdriver you will need, so you could start chasing it while you wait for the part.
Even better if they could include it, since the plastic part and it‘s shipment is not exactly cheap.
So to screw in two screws you need a #15 Star screwdriver!
How many housewife’s have this one in the tool drawer?
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- Customer:
- doyle from kingston, WA
- Parts Used:
- WR50X10068
- Difficulty Level:
- Really Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- 15 - 30 mins
- Tools:
- Nutdriver, Socket set
freezer was freezing up.
took the back off and defrosted with a hairdryer. disconected the part pulled the part out cut the wires. put the other part on and instaled it. put it back together and it seems to be working just fine. thank you
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- Customer:
- Cecilia from NATALIA, TX
- Parts Used:
- WR55X10942C
- Difficulty Level:
- Really Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- 15 - 30 mins
- Tools:
- Screw drivers
Freezer would not freeze and fridge would not cool after power outages
I used a volt/ohm meter and checked for power to compressor and start run relays, diagnosis- was remove and replace motherboard
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- Customer:
- charles from SCOTTSDALE, AZ
- Parts Used:
- WR55X10025
- Difficulty Level:
- Very Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- 30 - 60 mins
- Tools:
- Nutdriver
Defrost not working coil iced up
Removed back wall cover over coil. Defrost all ice with a hair dryer. Cut white wires and replaced Temperature Sensor. It has been working for a week and no trouble at this time. If you have this system on your GE refrigerator do this before replacing the motherboard. I must admit I was thinking that was the trouble. Motherboard was replaced after 5 years old now 5 years later my thinking is this a 5 year problem. So try the Temperature Sensor.
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- Customer:
- Jeffrey from Broomfield, CO
- Parts Used:
- WR60X10205
- Difficulty Level:
- Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- 30 - 60 mins
- Tools:
- Nutdriver, Screw drivers, Wrench set
The original fan had its blades sheared by ice build-up
The original design is poor. The evaporator fan is mounted in an upright position just below the ice-maker. A plastic grate mounts over the fan assembly to allow for air circulation. Unfortunately, random chips of ice from the ice maker can fall into the fan, causing the fan to shear its blades. Replacement of the fan blade is relatively simple (accept for having to completely unload the freezer and remove all back covers, the ice-maker auger motor assembly, and the metal evaporator cover). In order to mimimze this from reoccuring, I installed a 1/4'' mesh metal screen over the exhaust ports on the cover. Thus far, this has worked well to keep ice chips out of the evaporator fan.
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- Customer:
- Rene from HEBER, CA
- Parts Used:
- WR55X10025
- Difficulty Level:
- Really Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- 30 - 60 mins
- Tools:
- Pliers
condenser icing refrigerator warm freezer ok
follow the easy instructions replace 3 temperature sensors cut the wires and crimp them with new sensor and it works like new
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- Customer:
- anthony from Hampton, NJ
- Parts Used:
- WR50X10068, WR55X10025
- Difficulty Level:
- Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- 30 - 60 mins
- Tools:
- Screw drivers, Socket set
Defrost cycle would not cycle off
Replaced Defrost Thermostat. Tricky removal of light fixture cover and evaporator cover. Light cover screw removal is not intuiitive and the eveaporator cover tabs are not easy AT ALL to remove.Once they are removed, simply 2 screw removal of rear panel.
Had to unscrew screws holding cooling coils to gain access to thermostat mounted on a coil in rear.
Simkple matter to cut wires, remove old thermostat and splice replacement back on. Found it simpler to re-mount thermostat on top coil greatly simplifying process.(Why didn't they place the original unit in this much more accesible place?)
Re-attach coils to rear wall replace rear panel, light fixture cover and evaporator cover.
Refrigerator has been running fine this past week.
Received parts NEXT DAY! FANTASTIC!
Had to unscrew screws holding cooling coils to gain access to thermostat mounted on a coil in rear.
Simkple matter to cut wires, remove old thermostat and splice replacement back on. Found it simpler to re-mount thermostat on top coil greatly simplifying process.(Why didn't they place the original unit in this much more accesible place?)
Re-attach coils to rear wall replace rear panel, light fixture cover and evaporator cover.
Refrigerator has been running fine this past week.
Received parts NEXT DAY! FANTASTIC!
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- Customer:
- Sharon from West Winfield, NY
- Parts Used:
- WR55X10942C
- Difficulty Level:
- Really Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- More than 2 hours
- Tools:
- Screw drivers
The fridge was making a clicking sound, and not cooling the food
The back panel was unscrewed, we read the directions with the circuit board and followed them. It was very easy to unplug the old faulty unit and plug in the new replacement part. It was done in 4 minutes flat. Very easy to do yourselves!
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- Customer:
- William from Wylie, TX
- Parts Used:
- WR55X10942C
- Difficulty Level:
- Really Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- Less than 15 mins
- Tools:
- Nutdriver
Not cooling, Defrost issues, whining loud noises
Unbolted the back cover, pulled out old board, replaced with new bored and powered back on. It is working great now.
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