TFH22PRXBWW General Electric Refrigerator - Instructions

unclipped and replace with new part.

I hung the new shield on the two inside pegs that were already there.

Found a step by step video on YouTube made replacement very easy. Cubed ice is back. Time for a cocktail to celebrate!

After removing the panels, and numerous screws, i was able to remove the part from the door. Using a ladder next to the door to support the part, I was able to peel off the heater wiring on the back of the part, and disconnect the wiring to allow for replacement of the parts. Just take your time, as things will come apart, but having support for the parts frees up both hands to do the wiring removals and eventual replacement. I estimated about an hour and a half to do the replacement.

Turned the wire protector to the side. Turned out the old bulb and replaced it with the new. Turned the wire protector back in place and I'm like new.

Determined that the little door that opens to allow full size cubes to fall was not opening. If you open freezer door, hold door switch in, select cubes and push in the lever that the glass pushes in you should hear the solenoid lift open which opens the little door. Mine was doing nothing. Removed ice bin and then removed icemaker motor/solenoid section from back of freezer by disconnecting two wire harnesses and one screw. Found that solenoid smelled burnt and could see that inside of the solenoid was swollen out of round and burnt. Simple to replace.

There was what seemed to be a half chewed up washer under the refig. door. The door wasn't closing all the way. DING!! Something was wrong!!

I looked up your schematic for the refrig door and decided what piece might have broken. It was a good guess and the part showed up a few days later.

I wedged up the refrig door to take the tension off the lower bracket. Then, just took off the bracket and replaced the broken door closing cam.

I used a block of wood to hold up the door. Then unbolted the lower hinge from the fridge. That is when I found out that it was fine and it was the upper half of the hinge that was broken (worn).
So I unbolted the upper hinge (mounted on the bottom of door) It uses the same part. So I installed the part on the upper half of the hinge.

I wish somebody would have told me that you need 2 of these for each hinge. The bottom one was in good shape, lucky for me.

First, I had to remove the face plate where the ice and water was dispensed remove 4 screws holding the electrical circuits, disconnect circuits ,remove 2 screws holding soleniod and one screw holdin crank assembly. repace parts and screws.

Replaced dispenser flapper

Thanks to the stories on PartSelect my wife and I knew what to expect. The biggest hassle was sawing off the rivet that's on the hinge on the refrigerator (my wife volunteered for that job). When we got everything back together the door worked a lot better, but still wouldn't close without a little push. In frustration and running out of time, we put the stuff back inside the refrigerator door and that did the trick! The weight was enough to allow the door to close on its own.

Why don't they just tell you that you have to buy 2 cams. I have now replaced the cams on both doors. The other door broke about 4 years ago. Fortunately the first time I read the user commetns or I would've bought just one. It is a quick easy fix. The longest step is drilling out and replacing the rivet. Everything else is done with a nut driver.

1. I removed the top door hinge.
2. I removed the door and laid it flat.
3. I replaced the cam attached to the bottom of the door. This was very easy.
4. I removed the bottom door hinge and had to remove the brad that held the second cam. This went well as I was able to saw it with a hacksaw.
5. Replaced the second cam with a bolt and nut.
6. Replaced the door and top hinge.
7. Remember to order two cams when you do this repair.

removed top plate and raised the door off. I removed the L bracket from the fridge then noticed the part was rivited onto the L bracket. I cut the rivit and replaced the cam and used a small bolt and nut to sdecure it. Replaced the L bracket, the door, and the upper support. Only problem was the surprise rivit

I removed two screws at the top of the door, lifted the door off. I got lucky: the broken cam was the one on the door (easy to remove), not the one on the body of the refrigerator (tough to remove).
There is a shim which was also broken - no way to know that ahead of time. I bent a 5/8" lock washer flat and it served acceptably as a shim.
It would be helpful if PartSelect.com could include with its listing of the cam, the fact that (1) the shim will probably be needed, and (2) there's a very good chance that you'll need TWO of the cams as well.