DSD26DHWABG General Electric Refrigerator - Instructions

removed 3 screws unplug and remove old unit. install two screws install new ice maker, tighten screws plug in and turn on. had ice in 20 min.

First turn off the power, remove the ice tray, remove the two screws holding the ice maker to the side of the freezer, use the screw driver to gently open the electrical clip for the power cord inside the freezer, remove the complete unit from freezer, bend the old stripper from the holding pin- it is flexible- it will bend, replace the new stripper on the holding pin and bend into the slot to hold it firmly, no water will come out from the fill cup into the freezer, plug in the power cord, mount back to side of freezer, you are done.

Took the three screws out of the cover, took the six plugs off of the board and removed board.

I replaced the three sensors, 2 in the freezer 1 in the refrigerator. This was rated as the most common problem. Did not fix the problem. I then checked the ohms on the new sensors then the old sensors they were all within .5 of each other. So I got smart and went down the list of causes on their list. I emailed partselect and asked what the parts should read. They replied with that information and it turned out to be the voltage converter on the compressor. I ordered the part on friday payed for overnight delivery and it arrived tuesday. This as you can imagine makes me angry. But the part was easy to install and my refrigerator started working right away. I would advise anyone with this problem to start at the top of the problem list use a multi meter check everything on the list and only replace part or parts that don't come up to standards. This will save time and money and hopefully fix the problem the first time as you are not switching out parts and hoping that it solves the problem.

followed instructions already posted on your website, but had a very difficult time getting the dispensing side of the auger assembly to slide out, even after I disengaged the plastic tabs. There is no easy way or place to grab the assembly to pull it out. Finally turned the unit upside down and pounded on the edges of the assembly with a wood block and a small hammer. Once the part started coming out a couple of inches, I flipped over the ice bin and was able to pull it out the rest of the way, once I had something to grab on to. After the auger assembly was out the cup replacement was easy per posted instructions and the unit snapped back together easily.

Local repairman was called. He replaced the condenser fan motor as it had an intermittent noise several days before. Cost of the repair was 252.00. Two days later freezer was thawing again. He then came back again and said it was probably the evaporator fan and would replace it for 339. dollars or the mother board which he would replace for 500 dollars. He recommended replacing the unit. Since my unit was still in pristine looking condition I decided to do some further research. That is when I found your web site. After reviewing the possible causes on your site I ordered the defrost themostat and and all three thermistors.As a precaution I also ordered the evaporator fan and defrost heater and bracket Assembly. When the parts arrived I disconnected the power to the unit. Removed the shelves and lower pan. Removed the light shield and light bulb. Reovede the two screws holding the evaporator coil cover. This allowed access to the evaporator themostat. I then cut the wires from the old themostat and removed it from the coil. I then stripped the wires on the colored wires and also cut the wires on the new themostat and stripped those. Then using wire nuts I aatached the wires making sure they were properly color coded. Wrapped with electrical tape and attached the new thermostat to the evaporator coil. I then located the evaporator temperature sensor and removed it from the coil and removed the clip and placed it aside for use on the new sensor. I cut the wires and discarded old sensor. Stripped wires on the new sensor after determining the proper length and stripped the wires where the old one was removed and the using in line connectors I first crimped the wires on the new connector and the crimped both wires to the wires previously cut and stripped. Reinstalled the connector to the clip and clipped it back onto the evaporator coil. I then disconnected the wires attached to the defrost heater bracket assembly, located the two screws holding it to unit and removed it from the unit. I did a continuity check on it and it checked ok but was black so I replaced it as a precaution since I already had a new one. Hung the new unit onto the mounting bracket reinstalled the two mounting screws and reattached the two wires. Reinstalled the evaporator cover making sure to reattach the ground wire clip. Reinstalled screws and light cover and all shelves and pan. Reconneceted electrical power. Unit operated fine for a couple of days and then thawed again. I then retraced the steps removing what I had to remove to replace the evaporator fan motor and replaced it per the installation instructions on your site. The unit has now been operating for five days maintaining -8 degrees in the freezer and 37degrees in the refrigerator. I probably could have done a little more trouble shooting at the main board but didn't want to risk damaging that since I already had the parts I thought would fix the problem if it wasn't the main board. I only replaced the one temperature sensor so I will probably return the two I did not use. Thanks for your excellent "how to"videos.

As it turned out much of the electronics is driven by 13.5 volts off the Main Control Board. The Ice Dispenser caused the problem because it over currented the depleted board power. You could hear a clicking noise from the board which was the main relay short cycling and not staying energized. While waiting for the replacement board I unpluged the condenser fan which is a DC motor and uses the Board power. In place of that fan I use a small table top fan to keep the condenser cool. As it turned out I only needed it for 3 days because Parts Select did a super quick job of delivering the new board. Thanks for the super service!!!!!! Removal of the board only required unpluging the electrical connections squezing the retaining board pins with pliers and pulling the board out, pushing on the new board and connecting the electrical plugs. If the board locks like mine did, just unplug the main board power plug, let the memory clear and replug the power plug. The unit should then start and run with no problems.

I popped the switch out using the blade of a small screwdriver and noticed that it connected with two wires via a slide on connector for each one. I noted the info on the old switch to identify which wire went to which terminal. I held each wire with a pair of pliers while I pulled the wire connector off the terminal on the old switch. I connected the two wires to the correct terminals on the new swith, and popped the switch back into the door frame. Easy, easy, easy and saved the $40 service call + parts cost!

Bing , Bang, Boom.

On this fridge, you MUST take out the ice maker. First took out the shelves. Then take out the ice maker. This is done by taking out the four screws on the side that hold the assembly containing the bulb. Then there is one screw that holds that assembly to the icemaker. Do not take out any other screws, this is a mistake I made that cost me a few more hours figuring out how to get the other parts to mount correctly to the assembly containing the bulb. The icemaker should lift right out once the white plus is unplugged from the assembly that holds the light. Then took out the shelf brackets and finally could remove rear panel. Found it all iced up as others have. Took 1.5 hours to manually defrost while using sponges to sop up all the water that would run into the drain if you let it. Was about a gallon of water so using sponges worked well. Heater was open when checked with a meter, but you could tell it was blown by the way it looked. All cloudy. Put things back in reverse order. Had an issue with the icemaker shooting water out and missing the icemaker. Eventually was able to align better. This fridge had also just stopped dispensing water. I think the lines may have been frozen in the back, because one day after defrosting manually, the water dispenser started working again Overall this took about 4 hours. But a few days later, the water dispenser again stopped working. Not sure about that one. I have a valve already that I will try for this issue but somehow I don't think its the valve.

Watched video, however could not get outer casing off. Under the panel are three small holes, pushed up with an Allen key, used a small screwdriver to wedge out, came out easily, followed instructions from video on removing and replacing solenoid

Just had to pull ice maker drawer out and replace the drive cup which was very simple. Light bulb on door dispenser was kind of hard to get back in cause it is such a small space to screw the bulb in.

Simply put the new drawer in place of the old one, and saved more than $60 by ordering from partselect!

using a small socket wrench and star shaped driver I (1) removed the two screws that held the broken stop from the bottom of the door, and (2) replaced the new stop and screwed it back in. The most difficult part of the job was opening the door in order to access the second screw.

I typed in the part and area of what I needed for the fridge and model number. I paid extra to have it delivered extra quick since I had in-laws visiting.
It arrived the day of the visit. I was so happy to replace the broken bin .
It should have been very easy to put it into the fridge except you sent me the bin in a smaller in the back version?!!!! Of course I felt really upset.!!
Luckily my husband came up with an idea of removing the good frame and putting it on to the old bin. How could you have made this mistake if I clearly sent the model number and there is only one bottom pan?
miriam f.