ETS22XBPCRBB General Electric Refrigerator - Instructions

as per video- follow all of the videos and u r going to save a lot of money tx partselect im glad I found u guys ps only order from partselect.com they only ship the correct parts remember look at the video select the symptom and buy as per video tx again problemsolved

took out shelves and removed the back plate my removing 2 screws with a nutdriver.removed the old defrost timer and defrost heater which was really easy.then installed the new ones.the video i watched on the website was really helpfull.

per your instructions

pull out the slide pan lh and replace for the part

as per video

Connected the 2 wires and pushed in the switch until it clicked.

This was as easy as it comes and a whole heck of a lot cheaper than buying a new fridge. This is our second fridge, which we need but I hated the thought of buying another one. The old seal pulled off in 2.2 seconds and the new one snapped right in place. If it wasn't for the 5 minutes it took for me to get a couple of kinds out with a hairdrier, I would have completed the whole project in under 2 minutes, yes 120 seconds. It's that easy.

Gently pry out switch in door jam with screwdriver and pull both connectors off and put connectors on new switch then push switch back into the hole. Looked it up on the internet and video showed how to and also had link to new part, ordered and less than a week later the fridge is bright again. I have an older freezer also and it seems that they all use the same switches. Very Very easy

changed sensors did not repair problem,replaced damper with mechanical damper fixed problem.

Located temperature sensor on condenser in the freezer section( as per instructional video ). Cut off bad sensor with wire cutter then soldered on the new sensor and sealed with electrical shrink wrap.

After removing all the parts, the bins and a large glass fitted shelf or lid, on top of the two crisper bins I then removed the whole frame the three glides are mounted to. The frame is molded into one large piece matching the whole horizontal space of the refrigerator, so it is wiggled loose from its space. I lifted out the whole thing and placed it on a surface on which I could work while see everything I was doing. With no screw (both top and bottom of the U-shaped gripper “clevis” end are solid) or other type fastener that could be removed I finally just pried the "clevis" of the center glide that grips the front of the frame. This clevis grips a set of small plastic studs that fit into matching round indentations in the top and bottom of the clevis jaws. It’s necessary to keep the stud from slipping back into the first indentation while opening up the other side of the jaw so that both are free at the same time and the clevis will slide sideways. Using a butter knife because it was a good fit and stiff enough, I released the top, and then the bottom using the knife to bend it a little bit. The clevis opens up just enough to allow the edge of the frame it’s gripping to be released from its grip. The new one is put back in exactly the same manner but in reverse. The opposite end from the clevis simply tilts up until it can be disengage and reengaged in the same manner

followed part select video instructions

Followed the repair video, was spot on!!

luckly i have a bit of experience in refrigeration im an hvac technician by trade. this repair was a bit tricky in that i did not know at first if it was a Temperature Sensor issue or the main control board. I had tested the defrost termination thermostat and the defrost heater and as i suspected they were ok. Next i wanted to test the thermistors (temp sensors) it is hard to find technical data on these fridges. I needed to test the thermistors resistance @ a certian temperature to ensure they were working properly but where do u get such data? I also wanted to know some information about the logic programmed into the board (i.e when do you initiate defrost etc. . .). I had no such luck so i figured since i tested the defrost heater and thermostat and they were ok and all of the evap fans and such were working i'd order a circuit board and new thermistors. Got the CORRECT PARTS from this site in 2 business days and my fridge is working great! changing the parts was really easy, figuring out which parts to change was the only difficult thing about this job.

I have a GE Profile French door refrig. It's only about 4 yrs old and the defroster stopped working. I read the other repair stories and was able to narrow it down to either the temp sensor, defrost timer, or main board. The refrig section was up to about 47 degrees and freezer was around 25. I could tell it was trying to cool but couldn't. So I tried the temp sensor first. I cut and spliced the new sensor on the outlet of the Evap. Coil and it took about 15 mins. Turned refrig back on and waited. The coil started to ice over after about 5 hrs I left the back panel off so I could see if and when then heater kicked on. After about 8 hrs I looked in and saw a faint glow and water trickling down and running out the drain. Turned out the sensor was bad and wasn't telling the main board it needed to defrost. I would try the sensor if you are having the same issues before spending a lot of money on the main board, defrost heater and or timer.