TFT20SABAWW General Electric Refrigerator - Instructions

Removed the broken ones with screwdriver.Easiest job ever!

This my second time to do it after 8 years. Took 10 minutes.
1 Remove all the contents on the side door
2 Remove the 2 bolts on top connecting the door to the refrigarator
3 Lift and remove the door up and put it the side
4 Clean and remove the old door closing cam put the new one
5 Door ref is fixed

Took the door contents out and put them on the counter, took the door off the hinges by unscrewing the 2 screws on the top of the Fridge and lifting the door off the hinge onthe bottom. Then laid down the Fridge on the kitchen floor and replaced the Door Closing Cam, keeping in mind the order of the 3 shims and other things on the bottom of the door. Simple.

I first pulled the drawers out and unscrewed the broken slide rails from the fridge. I measured, ordered and replaced them with the new ones and slid the drawers back into the fridge. Very simple.

1st: Order (2) closing cams! One for the hinge pin / bracket and one for the bottom of the door.
The closing cam on the door was where the Dremel type tool is required, since you have to grind the head off of a factory rivet.
I installed the cam with an aluminum pop rivet.
Next, remove the bracket on the bottom of the door with sockets and install the second closing cam.
Re-attach the top door hinge pin and align visually; tighen all bolts. Job finished, but more important , my wife is not nagging me about the repair that I put off for over a year!!!!

Removed the top cover using a Phillips screw driver to access the top 2 screws holding the bracket. Once the bracket was removed, lifted the door off the bottom hinge. Replaced the door closing cam, replaced shims and screws. Placed the door back on the bottom hinge, inserted the top bracket and secured.
This was the ultimate resolution to the problem. The problem I encountered was getting all of the correct parts. It took me 3 tries to finally identify and receive the parts needed to make the repairs. Using Part Select made it easy because they had the parts I needed. My 3 tries were partly my error and does not reflect on Part Select. I would recommend others use Part Select when choosing their replacement parts.

Followed previous poster's steps. Replacement of door closing cams took 35 minutes. Make sure you buy 2 cams for each door.

I Supported the door with wood blocks. Then used a socket wrench to remove both parts of the lower hinge. I had purchased 2 of these plastic closers as recommended. One of them must be cut off with a Dremel Tool or small grinder. A small bolt and nut replaces the rivet that was cut off. Reinstall it just as it was removed. Job complete.
Parts were delivered on time, web site instructions were excellent. I highly recommend PartSelect.com

The old plastic door closer cam on bottom of the the door had broken. What was left of it was held on by a hex head screw. There was also a fiber spacer under the cam that was broken. I made a new one out of a piece of aluminum, but cardboard probably would have worked.

Forgot to mention you have to take the door off first--loosen the two screws on the top hinge and lift the door out of the bottom hinge.

I found the self-closing sometimes won't work well until there is some weight in the door.

I took the top over off the pivet bracket and used a nut driver to remove the screws on the pivet. Lifted the door off and put on some saw horsess. I revoved the pieces of the old cam on the door by taking out the screw and put the new cam back.
I then drilled out the rivet on the bracket on the door and removed the broken cam. replaced it with the new one and used a screw and nut to replace the rivet. Put the door back and works great now.

Why don't they just tell you that you have to buy 2 cams. I have now replaced the cams on both doors. The other door broke about 4 years ago. Fortunately the first time I read the user commetns or I would've bought just one. It is a quick easy fix. The longest step is drilling out and replacing the rivet. Everything else is done with a nut driver.

removed the door, installed the cam riser, and reattached the door. It took longer to remove the contents in the door than it did to install the cam riser.

All I had to do what unscrew the old railing and screw in the new one. The only problem I had was lining up the hole in the railing with the hole in the fridge wall, then getting the screw into the hole - a bit tricky since the hole was recessed into the railing. But it was still quite easy.

I removed two screws at the top of the door, lifted the door off. I got lucky: the broken cam was the one on the door (easy to remove), not the one on the body of the refrigerator (tough to remove).
There is a shim which was also broken - no way to know that ahead of time. I bent a 5/8" lock washer flat and it served acceptably as a shim.
It would be helpful if PartSelect.com could include with its listing of the cam, the fact that (1) the shim will probably be needed, and (2) there's a very good chance that you'll need TWO of the cams as well.

Remove screw at hinge cover, top of door.
Remove two screw/nuts at hinge and remove hinge while holding door in place.
Lift door off of lower hinge
remove two nut/screws at bottom of door and replace closing cam. Be sure the pivot pin hole in the cam is lined up with the hole in door.

Next drill out rivet holding cam to lower hinge on the refer. Install cam with a pan head screw and nut (to replace rivet). It will help if you remove the plastic grille cover at the bottom of the frige.

Set door back on the lower pin and shut so the the magnetic strip holds the door in place. Re-install the upper hinge loosely. Adjust the door for an even gap and tighten the screw/nuts. Re-install the cover.

A very easy fix.