GTT22KBPARCC General Electric Refrigerator - Instructions

Using plyers Pulled old switch down and out. Put new one in and pushed new switch up into position. The switch plugs into the contacts, no wiring needed. Worked like a charm. You saved me 200 dollars GE repair bill. Thanks

I removed the bins, center slide arm and frame cover. I installed the new parts and it works fine.

Once the part was received, it was very easy to snap the new part into place, and reinstall the drawers. No tools were required to complete the repair.

It was very tricky getting the old piece out, even though it was partially broken... I ended up snapping the old piece to remove it. Trying to install the new track with the glass shelf above was not working at all, but once I removed the glass shelf above it, the new piece went in pretty easily. With the glass shelf out, I could angle the track upward to get it into position. In retrospect, I should have removed the glass shelf from the start... it would have made removal of the old piece much easier.

Only problem we had was when we removed back wall on freezer the couls were totally iced up. After waiting for that to defrost. (3 HOURS) repair went fine. Was kind of hard to get to the part being its a side by side but happy with results

I started removing the switch by prying on the right side with a screwdriver, when it emerged enough I used pliers to finish removing it. I then unpluged rhe wires from the bad switch and pluged them on the new switch and "poped" it into the hole.

I have checked the defrost thermostat:During the defrosting cycle the thermostat is still open

replaced the defrost thermostat. The "how to" video was superb. Watched it twice before beginning the job. repair went as described.

I followed the directions of the how-to video and completed job in less than 15 minutes and it solved the problem. It's been freezing like before.

My snack tray guide rail cracked and this was the easiest repair I've ever made.

removed the inside fridge electrical panel and swapped switches

Removed shelves and light bulb. Undid the two screws on the back panel with nut driver. Snipped the two wire leads to the defrost thermostat. ( orange and pink wires) Carefully removed the defrost thermostat from the coil. Stripped both ends of the wire leads about a half inch and onnected with two wire nuts. Then wrapped with electrical tape to seal from moisture. Carefully attached defrost thermostat to coil. Screwed the back panel back on. Reinstalled light bulb and shelves. And plugged refrigerator back in. Works like a charm. Saved close to 100.00 dollars doing repair myself.

Defrost cycle staying on too long causing ice to melt, refreeze and seizing up ice maker. Replaced temp sensor and defrost thermostat just to be sure. Fixed the problem.

Unplugged the refrigerator first....then on the inside of the fridge, I popped the temp sensor cover off (upper LH side) and exposed the old sensor. I snipped off the old sensor about 3" down from the end and connected the new sensor (which I trimmed down to about 3" long) with some heat shrink wire nuts/connectors. Let the fridge run for a day or so and confirmed the problem was solved! Oh yeah, there was no way to tell the 2 wires apart (power vs. ground) on the sensor. However there was a manufacturer's stamp on the wires. So note the orientation of the text and mark one of the wires with a sharpie on both the old and new sensor before trimming. This will give you a reference for which wires to connect when adding the new sensor to the old wires.

removed back panel from freezer. located thermostat removed and replaced thermostat put panel and all baskets back into freezer and plugged fridge back in. Works perfect problem solved