MRSC20KWXFWH General Electric Refrigerator - Instructions

The bottom of the door was 5 " off the floor. A 2x4 block and a 4x4 block were pushed under the door and supported it while the water line was disconnected the hinge removed and the cam replaced. It was a simple fix and reading other people's experience made the repair so much easier.

Why don't they just tell you that you have to buy 2 cams. I have now replaced the cams on both doors. The other door broke about 4 years ago. Fortunately the first time I read the user commetns or I would've bought just one. It is a quick easy fix. The longest step is drilling out and replacing the rivet. Everything else is done with a nut driver.

Removed screws holding top door hinge. Lifted the door off bottom hinge. Unscrewed cam from bottom of door. Drilled out rivet holding the second cam in the bottom hinge. Replaced both cams using a flat headed bolt to hold the bottom cam. Dropped door into bottom hinge and replaced top hinge screws. Job done.

Make sure you buy two cams and have a bolt to replace the bottom rivet.

Not a difficult job as long as you have a drill !!!

removed the door, installed the cam riser, and reattached the door. It took longer to remove the contents in the door than it did to install the cam riser.

Removed refrigerator door and replaced bottom door pivot with the included mating cam and the door closing cam on the bottom of the door.

I didn't know that there were two mating cams and only ordered the door closing cam which I read online was the problem. It was the number one part on the part select list. The number two part was a kit including the door closing cam and the pivot with mating cam attached. It would have been helpful if there had been some notes that said check condition of both cams before ordering the part. So I have a spare door closing cam and paid an extra $19 including $8 shipping which negated a return.

The repair is easy - getting the right parts the first time is the trick.

I was amazed the part arrived the next day the installation was simple.

Buy ( 2 ) cams !!!! removed hinge cover and hinge on top of the door, ( 2 screws )...lift door off of the bottom hinge and lay door on the floor, remove broken cam on bottom of door with nut driver, ( 2 screws ) , install new cam..... remove the bottom hinge off of the front of the refrigerator with nut driver, (2 screws ).... saw rivit off and remove old cam, install new cam and secure with new bolt and nut,... reinstall hinge back on bottom front of refigerator.....replace door back onto the bottom hinge.....install top hinge back onto the top of the door....replace hinge cover......done !

Turned the wire protector to the side. Turned out the old bulb and replaced it with the new. Turned the wire protector back in place and I'm like new.

Followed step-by-step instructions in previous post. Note that there are TWO approaches, both of which work.

Option 1) Order TWO cams (PS297995), drill out the rivet holding the frame's cam, and replace it with a nut and bolt. (See post on 07/19/09.)

Option 2) Order the entire hinge assembly (PS290199), which includes the door's cam and an assembled frame hinge and cam. (See post on 10/29/08.)

We opted for Option 1 which was pretty easy. Option 2 would be even easier and take less time but costs about $9 more.

Thanks to previous posters for excellent instructions!

We taped the door with 3 pieces of duct tape, then put boards under it. Used socket set to remove cam and then cut off rivet so we could just use a screw to keep in place. . . Just for your information, I ordered 2 cams, and was glad I did as I need 2 to make the repair. . . Didn't read about this online or on order recommendation. The cams go 1 up and 1 down thanks for the installation repair stories, it inspired us to "do it ourselves " and we saved about $75 to $100. 00

remove the 'pop-out " frame around the door recess, you pry the flexable seal from around the ice despenser, have someone hold the unit with the wiring, remove the one screw that holds the door recess, and replace the new one. reverse the procedure. remember to unplug thr frig. first

Easy to take apart just keep track of all your screws and parts most inportant of all are the 3 claw like and spacers that are inside the clear round part at the end of the ice bucket these pieces only turn in one direction if you put them on backwards or in the wrong order you will tear up your ice bucket so pay close attention when taking it apart and reassembling it. One think that might be helpful is to take some pictures of the ice bucket before disassembly something i wish i had done prior to taking it apart. Some people download instructions off the internet but i felt like i could do it with out help well good luck

Took door off. Replaced two cams at bottom of door, referencing those on the bottom of the freezer door. Also followed a video on the net. Worked like a jewel!

Snapped off the plastic plate covering the dispenser. Removed the four screws holding the mechanism in place. Remove the electrical connections. Pull the mechanism out and up carefully pulling the dispenser pad out with all the mechanism in place. Look at the mechanism before removing any parts to get a mental image so that reassembly will be easy. Remove any electrical switch or circuit boards and remove old parts before submerging the mechanism in hot soapy water for clean-up. The Clean-up will take longer than the disassemble and reassembling. After completion the dispenser works as it should.

I followed the video instructions (very helpful) and used others comments for removing the control panel. For the latter I used a small allen wrench to carefully wedge the bottom two indents (look from below panel edge) slightly up and forward to release the panel. Next, after removing the four screws, the assembly (housing shield) removed fairly easily. I then had full access to the flapper and removed this carefully with the pliers so as not to damage the piece it was attached to (Dispenser Door Recess Crank?). The rubber outer flange on the otherwise plastic flapper was very irregular for approx. 1/4 of the circumference and thus did not seal. So far it's been one week and no more frost build up or frozen water dispenser line.