GSS25JEPCBB General Electric Refrigerator - Instructions

Replaced flapper

Dispencer quit working a year ago, but still still dispenced water. I talked to a service technician about it. He told me the electric motor was froze up, so I orderd a new one. When it arrived I installed it in about 20 minnutes,tried the dispencer and still would not work but this time the water would not dispence eather and this time I noticed the fan quit running and the light went dim when I tried to dispence ice. So I read the customers diagnosis and repares every thing pointed to the main control board, orderd the part and water filter. When they arrived in three days I watched installing this part video and it took me 20 minnutes to install and every thing works fine.

Remove ice holding box. Remove rear plastic cover (nut driver) Unplug two Electrical connectors. Place unit on work bench. Remove 'U' fork, vice grip on shaft and scewdiver as lever on fork (counter clockwise) Remove motor fron plastic Holder. Install new motor & fork. Reverse removal steps. Actually very simple procedure. Usual cost for this typwe of repair is approx. $300.00.

This repair was very simple to do. I cannot say enough about part select dot com. I feel that I am a definite handy man yet the videos on the part select dot com site proved to be valuable. This video showed and reminded me that the plastic bushing holding the auger on was reverse threaded. Being a rightee tightee leftee loossee person embedded in my head I would have worn out that bushing holding the auger in place. I recommend not only purchasing from partselect.com YET please watch the video on this site prior to this installation. This made the installation not only simple yet informative. Thanks!

Turned off power, removed cover from Ice maker, checked resistance across thermostat for zero (read open), all other switches read proper value (when activated). Ordered and received thermostat. Removed Ice Maker from freezer, removed two screws holding ice tray to Control Assembly. Removed Thermostat and replaced with new one. Applied Silicone Sealant to face of Thermostat for adhesion to ice tray when assembled. Remounted Ice Tray to Control Assembly and remounted in freezer. Works Great...

Followed video for replacing the ice chute flap solenoid replacement because getting to the ice funnel took same steps of disassemble. Looked at how the existing funnel was set in the housing, where and how one spring was located, where the switch and its activating arm on the ice funnel were located, took old one out and put new one in. Cleaned everything in process.

I ordered the part on Sunday and had it by Tuesday. It only took a few minutes to install. Basically, I unplugged the unit and removed the cover over the motherboard with a nutdriver. The wires were easy to unplug and reinstall. There was no way to incorrectly install since they could only fit in the correct position. I reinstalled the panel pluged it back in and now the fridge is working great.

Remove lower front panel, disconnect damaged union from water hose under freezer door, replace with new union, tighten and reattach front panel. No more water coming from under the unit. Ice maker and dispenser features returned to working order!

Thanks to others who also gave some detailed instruction on repairs I was able to do the same. I have a GE Profile side by side refrigerator/freezer Model No. PSC25PSSCSS The first repair I did was to remove/replace freezer defrost thermostat sensor that is cliped to condenser tube I snipped the wires close to the thermostat and pulled it off the tube I stripped the ends of the wires and twisted the strands then placed a piece of heat shrink tube onto the wire pushing it away from the exposed wire then I soldered the two color coded wires together then I pulled the heat shrink over the conection and used a lighter to heat up the heat shrink until it sealed the conection repeating this on the othr wire as well. I then removed the Old defrost Heater element by removing to screws then I disconected the two wires by simply pulling the connector plugs off both ends of the heater element assembly. This fixed the freezer being too warm for a short time but it started getting warm again that's when I noticed the defrost fan was not working, when you have the door open to freezer push the door switch in you should hear the fan come to life and blow hard. The fan was replaced I had to remove everything to get to it it's pretty simple to do it just unplugs make sure you order the right fan though My fan comes with the Thermistor already integrated into the plug this makes it easier. This fixed the problem with both Freezer & Refrigerator The Temperatures returned to normal Freezer 0 degrees Refrigerator 37 degrees I also checked out the refrigerator side Condenser I noticed only that the Condensate pan was starting to rust so I will remove it and use some Muretic acid to clean it up and then spray it with some Cold Gavanize with Zinc you can get this spray paint at Home Depot it seals and prevents rust. Or you can order a new one for about $ 16 bucks but it will start rusting just like the old one did eventually if you do order a new Condensate Pan I suggest spraying it before you reinstall it so that it will not rust. Greg H. Eldorado, AR

i used the video it showed on the site or iwould not have been able to do it

I replaced that part, but I still have the same problem, no water is dispensed. I believe I may need a circuit board. The problem was not the parts I replaced.

Replaced entire ice bucket and auger assembly (one piece).

First I turned the refrigerator and water line off. Then moved to the freezer section, followed the directions, removed the two screws. Directions state to not remove them but I had to in this case. Unplugged the ice maker and removed it from the freezer. I installed the two mounting screws then tried to plug the electrical connection back in but had to use the adaptor cord furnished in the kit. The cord was a little long but I tucked it in and mounted the ice maker. Turned it on then turned the refrigerator and water back on and in a few hours had ice! Very easy to do!

as described, I used a thin screwdriver to wedge in and pull down existing, broken switch. I was able to pull it down about a 1/4 inch, but wasn't quit able to disegage it until I gripped it with pliers. I then pulled it out, unplugged the old switch, plugged in the new switch, and carefully tucked the wires back into the fridge and snapped the new switch into place.

10 minutes total.

A second person is necessary to help prop up the refrigerator. One person will need to insert a 6 inch support under the front of the refrigerator base while another person rocks the refrigerator back to provide access for the support to be inserted.

The front refrigerator panel was removed to reveal the refrigerator base and provide access to the front wheel assembly adjustment screw (screw mobility). The front of the refrigerator was propped up on a solid support about 6 inches above the floor to provide access to the front wheel assembly and allow removal through the base of the refrigerator. The front wheel assembly was dislodged from the base by first removing the pivot pin by hand and then prying the wheel assembly loose with a screwdriver. Normally the pivot pin would need to be released by prying it loose with a screwdriver and then pulling to free by hand. Once the front wheel assembly was dislodged the adjustment screw was removed with a socket set and the front wheel assembly fell out of the refrigerator base. The new front wheel assembly was then inserted into the refrigerator base, the new pivot pin was inserted and aligned with the support holes and pressed into place to secure with locking mechanism. The new adjustment screw was then inserted into the refrigerator base hole, aligned with the front wheel assembly and hand tightened to set the first threads. The adjustment screw was then tightened with a socket set to seat the adjustment screw. The refrigerator was then lowered and the adjustment screw was adjusted to level the refrigerator. The refrigerator was then pushed back into its normal position and a final adjustment performed to assure the refrigerator was level. The front refrigerator panel was then pressed back into place.