ZISB36DCB General Electric Refrigerator - Instructions

There were not two screws as the instructions said. There was only one screw and I had to firmly pull it out after taking out the one screw. Then, to put the new one in, I had to line up two slots on two knob-like things and push it in firmly. Then screw the one screw in.

Other than the two-screw problem, it was easy.

The replacement ice maker that GE supplies for my old refrigerator is a little different than the original. The electrical plug changed from a round plug to a square one. They include an adapter for it, but DON'T USE IT. There's not enough room for the bulky cord and connector. I got a much cleaner installation by taking apart the old and the new ice maker, and then splicing in the old connector into the new ice maker. You need to carefully unscrew a circuit board inside to wire it in, and it'll be more secure if you solider 3 wires instead of using crimp connectors. The instructions also tell you to use your old 'ice breaker', but it won't fit on the new ice maker. I just left the new ice maker's ice breaker on, and it seems to work perfect.

Unplugged frig. Turned off water supply to pump. Removed black cardboard covering on back of frig with nut driver (6 screws).

Took digital photo of assembly to confirm reassembly position.

Removed copper waterline to pump with adjustable wrench. Removed 1 screw holding pump assembly to refrigerator. Pulled assembly out of the frig. Unscrewed two small black screws on a second bracket. Pulled old pump further out of frig. Unplugged two connectors. Removed plastic waterline from pump by turning hose counter-clockwise and gently pulling.

Inserted plastic water line into new pump by turning line in clockwise and it pushing into orange plastic stop. Reconnected two electrical connectors. Reconnected bracket to pump with two small black screws. Gently pushed assembly back into the frig and reconnected pump assembly to the frig with 1 screw. Reconnected copper water line to pump first wrapping threads on pump with Teflon plumbers tape.

Turned on water to check for leaks. Installed cardboard back on frig with 6 screws. Plugged in frig.

NOTE. My new pump assembly had the electrical connectors reversed. Take care to pair up the correct colored connectors.

Unplugged refrigerator from electrical outlet for safety and turned off water supply valve. Removed the four metal screws that hold the access cover on the rear of the refrigerator. Then removed single metal screw attaching water valve and bracket assembly. Unplugged wire harness from the water valve and assembly then pressed down on colored o-rings to detach the four plastic water lines from the water valves. Used open end wrench to disconnect main water supply line from the water valve.
Pressed down on colored O-rings to install the four plastic water lines to new water valve and bracket assembly. Wrapped plumbing tape on threads of inlet valve and and used open end wrench to attach main water supply line to new water valve and bracket assembly. Attached wiring harness to new water valve and bracket assembly. Mounted new assembly to refrigerator with single metal screw. Turned on water supply valve and checked for leaks. Plugged in refrigerator to electrical outlet and tested water dispenser. Replaced access cover on rear of refrigerator with four mounting screws.

Unplugged refrigerator, removed three screws to take out part, disconnected the wires and removed bad unit. Removed fan blade from old unit and attached to the new unit. Attached wires, placed the new motor back in. Plugged it back in, within 20 minutes panel between freezer and refrigerator was cool to touch.

Frig and freezer were defrosting and refreezing other than normal. Home warranty contractor told me ice maker was faulty. Purchased new ice maker. Unplugged frig, loosened 2 screws with nut driver. unplugged old ice maker, lifted old ice maker out. Took old fill cup off old unit and put on new unit since new fill cup was a different size. Swapped ice maker insert from old to new unit. Plugged in new ice maker, slid over the 2 screws, tightened, and plugged in frig power. New ice maker works fine but still have defrosting and refreezing problem. Figure old ice maker probably works just fine. New contractor still trying to solve problem. Have had problems with this GE Monagram keeping proper temps since it was new in 2005, don't recommend it.

Removed the face plate this just gets popped off. removed the four screws to release the unit. unplugged the wiring harness, removed the two screws that hold the bracket in place that the control unit is housed in. Slid the old unit out and replaced with the new unit. installed the bracket over the control unit put two screws back, plugged the wiring harness's back in. Slid the whole unit back in replaced the four screws and put the face plate back on. Very Easy.

I had to completely disassemble the ice bucket (dispenser) to gain access to the parts that were being replaced.
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It was helpful to have the exploded parts diagram to aide in reassembling the ice dispenser when replacing the parts.

The leak was obvious and I took out the cardboard backing. I closed the valve (water supply) to the water dispenser and ice maker.

With the screw drivers and socket set, I was able to take out the old valve and disconnect the hoses.

Since the part was identical to the leaky valve it was just a matter of reversing the steps. I had previously researched on the web to find the identical part and found a match at Partselect.com. I wish all my repair attempts turn out to be this easy. I wish GE had used better parts since this incident has set me back by several thousand dollars due to the water damage to the wooden floors, basement ceiling and walls.

First I removed the ice maker. Second I removed the back panel and overhead panel above ice maker. Third I pulled down the drip trough it had a styrofoam base under it. The trough heater had to be unplugged to remove the trough as well as the drain hose. Forth I seperated the styrofoam from the trough and peeled off the old heater which had burn marks on the foil. Fifth I applied the new heater plugged it in and attached the drain hose to the trough. Last I reassembled the unit. Refridgerator works great now and it only cost $45.00 for the heater. The GE repair service quoted over $950.00 and did not list the trough heater as the problem so I would be spending more and would have required several repair visits.

Isolated water line. Remove water valve from harness. Disconnect water connections. Disconnect electrical connections. Removed valve. Installed new part. Reconnected water connections and electrical connections. Opened water line.

The OEM auger pitted and rusted. My ice was coming out brown. I had cleaned it before, but in no time is was back to 'spiced' ice cubes. I cleaned the entire ice bucket and disassembled, ordered the part and re-assembled. Now the disassembly was a different day than the assembly. It's a good thing the parts diagram was on the web, I am no Thomas Edison when putting things back together. It is pretty general though. I sand blasted the tin cover and re-painted before buying a new one. That had rusted too. Before that expense, I thought I would try it. Be careful of the bucket as it can crack. I am not sure when mine was cracked, but I noticed it this time. If you are contemplating the purchase of a new auger - don't. The new one is stainless and the old steel and chrome is a joke. The inside of the freezer where the bracket spins the auger is rusty too and the old auger will rust again in no time. Buy a new one for under $50 shipped to your door. Another note, be sure to remember what screws came from what hole. It will eliminate the guess work when assembling. Also, the spring on the arm that controls the crushed ice function, note the position before tearing apart.

First I removed the face plate by lightly prying . Once removed noticed 4 screws. Removing the screws allows you to gain access to the two plugs, one for the solenoid and the other for the switch that energizes the solenoid . Unplug the connectors and carefully lower the piece enough to reach the 3 screws that hold the solenoid in place. The 4th screw in the center at the bottom of the solenoid is the ground wire. If it is rusted like mine was just re-attatch it to one of the solenoids holding screw. It must be grounded!
Just re-assemble, just dont forget to replug the connectors. Also a little hint, If you open the freezer door a little you wont trigger the solenoid.

The repair is easy, just pop the grill off around the ice and water door, then there are 4 screwws to take out so the touch pad can be moved out of the way to unsnap the old door assm. and snap in the new one and wait about a year and a hald to order another one!!!!!

Shut off power to the refrige. Removed old icemaker, using large hammer. Installed new unit.