ETS22SBSCRSS General Electric Refrigerator - Instructions

Just follow the instructions from the Youtube, the link to the video is included in the sheet coming with the part. It was easy to take the entire compartment out as instructed, however, after replace the old motor with the new one, it took more than 20 min to put the entire compartment back after trying different ways. It has been working greatly since it was repaired.

pull out the slide pan lh and replace for the part

What an awesome site! After putting in my model number and finding the problem I was having, I simply picked the 2 parts that were most likely to solve the problem. I bought a defrost thermostat, and defrost heater. To a high certainty, they would solve my problem. They didn't however! I ended up having to buy a temperature sensor on another order a few weeks later when the problem resurfaced! My own fault. I should have bought it the first time. As others have written: the longest part of the job is defrosting the ice from the coil. One thing I did that I didn't see suggested: plug the drain hole below the coil. I put a couple towels in the bottom of the freezer and ran the hair dryer. Didn't take long. I read that the amount of water created will overflow the pan under the refrigerator, so I plugged the drain hole. Once you clean that mess up, the repair is pretty straight forward. Great site. Even through I had to make two separate purchases, I still saved a lot of money. Thanks!

First, I had to remove the freezer drawer front. This is 8 large phillips head screws. then remove the plastic cover over the drawer slides. to do this, remove the white center screw from the slide near where it attaches to the drawer front. then the plastic cover will slide off pushing to the rear of the slide. take off the slides from the freezer walls by removing the phillips screws and pulling them towards you. They have tabs/slots in the rear. remove the center tray support and support bars, too. the icemaker has to come out, that is just 2 phillips screws but you also have to disconnect the electrical connector. just squeeze the locking wings and rock/pull. a screw in the top center of the back panel comes out. Lift and pull the back panel out. The evaporator coil appears. The thermocouple is attached to the coil in the upper right. Cut that one's wires and take it out. Just cut back about an inch from the back of the thermocouple, there is not much slack. Seperate and strip the wires back about 3/8 inch. Do the same for the new thermocouple. I twisted the wires together and used a solder sleeve to join the wires. The sleeve is just a little plastic tube that has a ring of solder in it that melts with heat gun heat. You can join the wires using butt connectors or whatever method appeals to you. I just wound the extra wire and put a cable tie around it, there is plenty of hiding space in that area. Make sure the new thermocouple is contacting the coil firmly.At this point, for a test, I left everything apart, propped the drawer against the opening and plugged the fridge in. Note that the evaporator fan will not start spinning immediately! It will just sit there making little bumps like it wants to go. The temp in the coil has to get settled before the electronics in the refridge will tell the fan to spin. It takes maybe 20 minutes. Reassemble. Fridge and freezer work great. It does take several hours for all to get cold again.

Follow the instructions on the video. Took pictures removing Evaporator Fan Motor. Installed new motor in 44 minutes. Thank you part Slect

followed part select video instructions

unplug fridge! removed ice maker. removed the back panel in frezer. I uncliped thermostat; cut wires on thermostat and installed new thermostat.

Replaced all the sensors in both the feezer and refrigerator.Even though it colder now it still is not cold enough.Freezer won't freeze items but is cold and refrigerator still not real cold

I have a GE Profile French door refrig. It's only about 4 yrs old and the defroster stopped working. I read the other repair stories and was able to narrow it down to either the temp sensor, defrost timer, or main board. The refrig section was up to about 47 degrees and freezer was around 25. I could tell it was trying to cool but couldn't. So I tried the temp sensor first. I cut and spliced the new sensor on the outlet of the Evap. Coil and it took about 15 mins. Turned refrig back on and waited. The coil started to ice over after about 5 hrs I left the back panel off so I could see if and when then heater kicked on. After about 8 hrs I looked in and saw a faint glow and water trickling down and running out the drain. Turned out the sensor was bad and wasn't telling the main board it needed to defrost. I would try the sensor if you are having the same issues before spending a lot of money on the main board, defrost heater and or timer.

On partselects video the gentleman removes the fan and housing in one piece. This is a great idea but does not work on this brand of ge. I removed the fan housing screw as instructed but left it in place and swiveled it enough to access the retaining screws with a socket driver. Over all swap of the fan was seamless and the video is a gem. Andy

I removed the ice marker first and took the back panel off using a nut driver. Be careful I had wires tied to the back panel, so I moved it like opening a door, right to left. The I removed the fan motor. Be careful not to damage the fan blades. I took the fan blades off and the dust cover. The dust cover was very tight. I had to use a very small screw driver to get it off. When I put the dust cover on the new motor I did not push it down tight. I turned the spindle of the new motor to make sure it turned. The put everything back. Turned it on and it worked. I put the ice marker on last. Take a note of how far the fan blades are on the spindle. The refrigerator now turns off more often.

Followed the repair video, was spot on!!

took apart stat. area rplaced wire harness &t.stat simple but im a retired union electrican so wiring was a bit easy

My compressor fan that blows over the coils was not spinning. I measured 120 VAC going to the fan so I knew it should have been spinning but wasn't. Took fan motor out and took it apart and super lubed the motor to get it spinning again temporarily until I could get the new one in. Put new one in and has been working for about 10 days now. Freezer is not below 0 deg F which is what you want. Frig is below 40 deg F also what you want.

I removed the ice maker, and removed the upper plastic covers, that just snap in and out of their locations, you can then see the evaporator fan blades. then I removed 2 hex screws, located in the top corners, holding a metal cover in place,lifting up from the bottom of the cover and slowly pulling it out of the freezer compartment. I can now see the screws holding the evaporator fan motor in place. Unplug the connector wiring to the motor and unclip the ground wire from the frame, It is easier to replace the fan blade,lid bumpers, dust cap,grommets, and fan motor this way. while you have everything in easy access, I took time to clean everything and replaced the foam strips, assure tight fit causing excellent air flow, when operating. the cause of the whining and knocking noise, was worn out grommets and bearing going bad in the motor. I reassembled everything in reverse order, being very careful not to get cut or burnt on the fins and tubing in the back of the freezer. Do not drop any thing down the drains while removing and /or reassembling, those items will cause lots of havoc to the lower fan and motor for the refrigerator, lay a towel in the bottom when you start working on it.. I then plugged it back up and there was on noise, works great.