TFH22JRXAAA General Electric Refrigerator - Instructions
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- Customer:
- Catherine from SEATTLE, WA
- Parts Used:
- 40A15
- Difficulty Level:
- Very Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- Less than 15 mins
The light inside the oven had burned out
0. As a safety precaution, unplug the range or hit the relevant fuse breaker before you start. You might also want to grab a flashlight. Definitely do not try to do this while the oven is hot.
1. Pinch the wire over the light bulb cap to remove it. This is inside the oven at the back.
2. Pop off the hemispherical glass cap.
3. Unscrew the old light bulb, and screw the new light bulb in its place.
4. Put the cap back.
5. Secure the cap by putting the wire back in its slots on the cap.
No tools needed, the cap is just held in place with pressure from the wire.
1. Pinch the wire over the light bulb cap to remove it. This is inside the oven at the back.
2. Pop off the hemispherical glass cap.
3. Unscrew the old light bulb, and screw the new light bulb in its place.
4. Put the cap back.
5. Secure the cap by putting the wire back in its slots on the cap.
No tools needed, the cap is just held in place with pressure from the wire.
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- Customer:
- Daniel from Genoa City, WI
- Parts Used:
- WR17X4358
- Difficulty Level:
- Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- 15 - 30 mins
- Tools:
- Nutdriver, Screw drivers, Wrench (Adjustable)
The dispenser water reservoir had a pin hole leak.
1. Turned off the water supply to the refrigerator.
2. Removed the front panel and disconnected the water line to the front left.
3. Removed the left rear (freezer side) panel and disconnected the reservoir from the main water supply input. This was a little tricky to figure out. You must push in the water line at the same time pushing in the coupling. Then pull the line out while keeping the coupling pressed in.
4. Removed the screw that holds the reservoir to the back of the refrigerator.
5. Pulled the old reservoir out and replaced it with the new one.
6. Basically the rest is the reverse of the above. It took a little bit to fish the lines through the original path they came.
Overall this was an easy repair. If I had known how the coupling in step 3 worked this would have been a 15-minute project.
2. Removed the front panel and disconnected the water line to the front left.
3. Removed the left rear (freezer side) panel and disconnected the reservoir from the main water supply input. This was a little tricky to figure out. You must push in the water line at the same time pushing in the coupling. Then pull the line out while keeping the coupling pressed in.
4. Removed the screw that holds the reservoir to the back of the refrigerator.
5. Pulled the old reservoir out and replaced it with the new one.
6. Basically the rest is the reverse of the above. It took a little bit to fish the lines through the original path they came.
Overall this was an easy repair. If I had known how the coupling in step 3 worked this would have been a 15-minute project.
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- Customer:
- John from San Marino, CA
- Parts Used:
- WR2X4901
- Difficulty Level:
- A Bit Difficult
- Total Repair Time:
- 30 - 60 mins
- Tools:
- Pliers, Screw drivers, Socket set
Door wouldn't close properly
First we removed the door. Then we had to hammer the old part off including the old rivot. We fould a screw that fit and put this piece on. We held the door in place and screwed the hinge on the main unit.
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- Customer:
- John from Newport Beach, CA
- Parts Used:
- WR2X4901
- Difficulty Level:
- Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- 30 - 60 mins
- Tools:
- Nutdriver, Screw drivers, Socket set
The fresh food door on the refrigerator would not stay closed
First I took everything out of the fresh food door, then I removed the top hinge cover using a philips head screwdriver, and a nutdriver for the two screws holding the upper hinge. Lifted the door off the bottom pin, and placed it on the floor. Then took off the bottom hinge and used the Dremel tool to grind off the rivet holding the broken door cam on the bottom hinge. Used a nut and bolt to hold the new cam in place, and put the lower hinge back on. Then replaced the other cam on the bottom of the door itself, using the nutdriver. (Be sure to buy two cams, and have the bolt and nut to replace the rivet). Reinstalled the bottom hinge, put the door on, replaced the top hinge, and presto! Works great! Thanks to the others on this site for their stories - really helped make it an easy and quick repair!
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- Customer:
- Jeff from Venice, FL
- Parts Used:
- WR2X4901
- Difficulty Level:
- A Bit Difficult
- Total Repair Time:
- 30 - 60 mins
- Tools:
- Nutdriver, Pliers, Screw drivers
Door Not Closing Tightly + Staying Open
Turned off water to ref , removed bottom kick plate , got a towel and disconnected the water line plastic fitting and un screwed the (2) tube clamps un screwed the coupling and ((carefully )) slid out the tube from the compression ferrels ! ( Be careful and do not break or distort them + remember exactly the order they are removed ! Slid the protector spring shroud from the plastic tube , took ogg the top hinge cover then remover the top hinge . Carefully lifted the door off feering the plastic tube through the bottom hinge with my foot ! Got the door off removed the bottom hinge + put the new on on, then removed the door cam which was broken on the bottom of the door , lifted the door up and carefully fed the water line through the new bottom hinge . Attached the top hinge and reassembled the rest same as I had dissambled it . Turned on water ( checked for leaks ) ! All working 100% a-ok ! This company is the best ! Ordered the part at 1 pm and had the part at 2 pm the following day many thanks : )
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- Customer:
- CYNTHIA from NEWARK, DE
- Parts Used:
- WR2X4901
- Difficulty Level:
- Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- 15 - 30 mins
- Tools:
- Wrench (Adjustable)
Refrigerator door won't close
First I removed the top hinge of the refrigerator door and then lifted it off the bottom assembly. I had to turn the door on its side to work on the bottom where the broken part was located. I unscrewed the bottom assembly and replaced the broken part with the new door cam. Put it all back together and now the door closes but must be manually pushed to close. When the door was working properly it would shut automatically when released from any position. I think I need to install an additional part - maybe a shim? to make it close automatically. That will be another story.
This was a fairly simple jog to do but since I did not have the proper tools it did take me longer than usual to remove the bolts. I'm happy I did it myself and saved a big repair bill! Thanks to the people at PartSelect.com.
This was a fairly simple jog to do but since I did not have the proper tools it did take me longer than usual to remove the bolts. I'm happy I did it myself and saved a big repair bill! Thanks to the people at PartSelect.com.
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- Customer:
- Kyoko from Bellevue, WA
- Parts Used:
- WR17X11653
- Difficulty Level:
- Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- 30 - 60 mins
- Tools:
- Screw drivers
frost/ice buildup in icemaker chute in the freezer door
The only difficult part was not knowing which parts had to be removed to gain access to the flapper to replace it. It appeared as if the frame around the control panel would have to be removed as well as the door handle; we tried but were not able to remove the frame. It turned out that the panel just popped out with the frame in place. Once we had access to the flapper, it was easy to replace it. The repair fixed the problem.
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- Customer:
- Allen from Hills, IA
- Parts Used:
- WR62X23154
- Difficulty Level:
- A Bit Difficult
- Total Repair Time:
- 30 - 60 mins
- Tools:
- Screw drivers, Socket set
Crushed Ice Only
Let me start by saying, I usually hire something like this out but figured I would give it a try. The install was fairly straight forward, however it would’ve been nice if the instructions would have been more useful. Instructing me to remove one screw to release the auger and solenoid enclosure wouldve been nice. There were 3 other screws that I didn’t need to remove and they were the ones holding the auger in place, which made assembling that much more difficult. Once to enclosure was removed, and the solenoid was exposed, it was a seemless process. I would however, recommend paying attention to or taking a picture of the connections on the solenoid. I was lucky to remember or got lucky. Regardless, I was able to complete the project successfully. If I had to do it again, I believe it can be done in 30 minutes or less.
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- Customer:
- Raymond from Niverville, NY
- Parts Used:
- WR17X2740
- Difficulty Level:
- Really Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- 15 - 30 mins
- Tools:
- Screw drivers
Blade on auger became stripped
Ordered at PartSelect and received the auger and blade within days. Printed the parts diagram and proceeded to take the auger apart the time it took would have been much less but I seized the opportunity to do a deep cleaning of the old parts before replacing them....The part diagram was the key to simplicity and the fast shipping was awesome. Thanks I'll be back....
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- Customer:
- Roger from Colleyville, TX
- Parts Used:
- WR17X11653
- Difficulty Level:
- Really Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- Less than 15 mins
- Tools:
- Screw drivers
No water through door dispenser
Replaced flapper valve per website instructions. GE factory technician took two weeks to get here, charged over $100 for the call and told us we needed a new refrigerator door at a cost of over $500 to fix the problem. We sent him packing. After visiting the PartSelect website, the $5.88 PartSelect flapper valve fixed the problem. Amazing.
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- Customer:
- Peter from HAZELHURST, WI
- Parts Used:
- 7C7
- Difficulty Level:
- Very Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- Less than 15 mins
The light bulb in my freezer door burned out.
Remove the burned out bulb and install the new light bulb.
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- Customer:
- Mark from HAYMARKET, VA
- Parts Used:
- WR17X11653
- Difficulty Level:
- Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- 15 - 30 mins
- Tools:
- Screw drivers
Flapper was worn and misshapen allowing warm air in freezer, ice cubes to melt and drip and impairing function of ice dispenser. Frost formed in ice dispensing chute also.
Followed the online video. Unplugged refrigerator, removed trim piece, lifted control board cover, removed 4 screws retaining circuit control board and removed the 3 connectors from the control board. Located flapper and removed by using small flat tip to take tension off flapper connectors. Helper held flash light to illuminate flapper connectors. Reversed procedure. New flapper seals well and cured problems. Circuit board was a bit different than one in video, but still had the 3 connectors. Marked each connector with grease pencil at top edge to ensure correct reconnection. Should note how wires are threaded around circuit board to ensure they are tucked back in correctly in reassembly. Remove trim piece carefully. I broke 2 of the 8 plastic pins that hold trim on. May be due to age of unit as they were brittle. 6 pins still hold trim piece flush.
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- Customer:
- John from Salinas, CA
- Parts Used:
- WR2X4901
- Difficulty Level:
- Really Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- Less than 15 mins
- Tools:
- Pliers, Socket set
Door closing cam split in two and door would not automatically close anymore.
This one is a no brainer… One Phillips screw on top to pull top door hinge trim. Two nuts and the top hinge is free. Then pull the door… it helps if you unload all the crap in the door bins. Remove the remnants of the door cam and that leaves a pop rivet. Put some vise grips on the head and use a hacksaw to remove the lower part of the rivet. Then pop-rivet the new door cam in place. If you don’t own a pop-rivet tool, I guess you could use a 10/32” screw and nylock. Plop the door back on and you’re done. Took all of about 15 minutes.
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- Customer:
- Jimmie from Surprise, AZ
- Parts Used:
- 7C7
- Difficulty Level:
- Really Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- Less than 15 mins
Bulb burned out.
Screwed new bulb in socket
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- Customer:
- Rudy from CITRUS SPGS, FL
- Parts Used:
- WR17X11653
- Difficulty Level:
- Very Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- 15 - 30 mins
- Tools:
- Screw drivers
Had a drip which filled up the tray and leaked on the floor from water dispenser
There are Great videos on YouTube!!! Turned off power,Removed trim ring, Pushed a philips head screwdriver in one of the holes underneath the electrical panel with the selector push buttons. This releases the electrical panel. There are Three wire sets with plugs. I removed the plugs and took the electrical panel out. Removed four Phillips head screws and pulled out the big paddle switch. This then exposes the flapper. Replaced flapper with new one and reassembled everything. When I had everything apart, I cleaned with window cleaner. It was pretty moldy from the water leaking. Turned power back on and tested everything to make sure I didn't mess anything up. Works great
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