DTS18ICRMRBB General Electric Refrigerator - Instructions

removed screws holding back plate removed air devise pul slightly out lift straight up and ou remov 2 screws in the fan cage remove ice maker 2 screws and a plug in connector.pull back fram slowly forward angle to the left remove.you'll see condenser in front of you.thermostat is to the right attached to top coil of condenser clips on remove.two wires cut close to old thermos and remove install new one make sure back which is plastic faces you.attach wires with wire nut or inline #14 slices.just go in reverse to finish. maakesure you unplug fridge first and of course plug her back in.wait 24 hours for everything to settle down.

Had to defrost the freezer to melt off all the ice before servicing. Once that was done the icemaker replacement only took about 15-30 minutes to complete. The new icemaker came with many accessories and adaptors that were not needed and the instructions were based on replacing an older model and not really clear for my model. They mentioned not being able to use the new stripper but it was exactly the same as the old one so I left the new one in place. All in all it was easy and did the job.

I didn’t do the repair because I ordered two grommets. When they arrived, one of the packages was empty! Instead of just sending me another one, they refunded the part so I still need one. By the way, I was not refunded half the shipping either which was more than the part itself.

-Empty the freezer
-Take the cover in the back of the freezer off
-Melt the ice off the coils (heat gun, hot water, etc.)
-Cut the wires off the old sensor and connect the new sensor using a soldering iron or some other method.
-Cover the spliced wire with heat shrink, electrical tape or some other method.
-Reassemble the cover

Done!

Up plug from wall removed rear access cover in freezer let thaw out and replace two wire sensor had previously checked out knowing the defrost strip was good and the defrost thermostat was visually deformed and tested open at freezing and 40 degrees

Removed old valve easily. New WR57XI0033 valve is designed to mount on lower left, but on mine it has to mount on lower right. Had to drill two 1/32 holes in lower rail to mount the new valve.

Separately (from a different site) purchased new compressor fan and motor. I purchased the grommets here because the other site listed the grommets as temporarily out of stock. I did watch one of the videos on PartSelect about the grommet replacement. Repair was pretty simple, biggest challenge was getting to the screw on the far side of the motor. Removed the two screws holding the fan motor into place. Removed motor and blade. Reinstalled with new fan blade, new grommet and new motor.

Removed icemaker from freezer,
Removed 3 screws from cover plate, and removed screw securing main gear, removed gear.
Pulled back cover plate to expose switches and mechanism.
Removed screw holding switch to remove switch, and installed new switch.
I should have taken a pic of the cover plate, the interior mechanism and the wiring as I went along. It would have saved me 45 minutes in reassembly. Also, as luck would have it, I reversed the wiring on the switch. So off was on, and I had to remove it, switch wires and re-install.
But it works!

Unplugged refrigerator Removed the cover in freezer compartment
Removed old thermostat and installed new
Replaced cover and plugged in refrigerator

Pop out switch, pull wires, attach wires to new switch and pop back in. Easy smeasy!

with a jewelry screwdriver I pried the lock tab in and pulled switch down carefully, the hardest part was that the power wire connector was stuck on good but the pliers and the jewelry screwdriver was its match for a bout 5 minute for one connection a simple pull off prong connection. After the wire connected back to switch it popped back in SNAPP

Remove the top cover above the door by lifting it slightly and pulling forward. I used a mirror to make sure that there was nothing in the way of accessing the switch from above. I used a blade screwdriver to press against the switch retainer on the topside, while GENTLY prying from below with another blade screwdriver to get the switch dislodged. Once the retainer was past the opening, I wiggled the switch downward and then rotated it to the left when the rounded top right edge of the switch was visible. This allowed the wiring to the connector to pass thru the hole. I pushed the wiring from the top and pulled from below to get the connector below the opening for the switch. I then unplugged the switch, plugged in the new switch and reversed the removal process feeding the connector thru first then rotating the switch to the right to get the rounded edge of the switch thru the opening, then pressed the switch up into the opening until it snapped into place. Total time less than 10 minutes.

Looked at fan and seen it was rubbing metal cage. After looking and checking fan noticed bushings were worn letting fan hit cage. Repair was very easy. Used a 1/4 inch nut driver to remove bracket holding fan. Pulled fan blade off shaft by just pulling it forward. Removed fan and replaced grommets. Reassembled fan and fan blade. Took just 10 minutes.

Remove the one screw holding the unit in place, unplug it, slide in the replacement, plug and screw it in.

Extremely easy repair, the hardest part was getting the old switch out. I used a pair of needle nose pliers to squeeze the tabs in and it came right out.