GTS22FBPBRCC General Electric Refrigerator - Instructions

Attempted it on my own with the aid of the video on your site, but could not remove the fan shroud due to additional copper lines that prevented me from getting it out.
Gave up and called an appliance repair guy. He had a novel approach: Don't pull the fan shroud (with motor attached) out, but instead remove one of the screws holding the motor into the bracket, then bend the bracket to get the motor out.
All good until we powered the fridge on again. Now the fan works, but spins faster (and makes more noise than) the original fan.
The repair guy's comment: "I've seen that before with some of the aftermarket fans."
Nice! I'd appreciate getting the right part when I order the part from your website based on my fridge model number.

I followed your video and completely dismantled the refrigerator evaporator motor, fan, brackets, and grommet, I completely cleaned the refrigerator including the cooling coils. I then ordered the evaporator motor ,fan, grommets, lid bumper, and brackets. The order would take a week to arrive. In the meantime I cleaned and reassembled all the old parts, waiting for the new ones to come. Guess what! The refrigerator was quiet as a mouse. I really did not need the new parts, but I kept them anyway just for good luck. Not bad for a refrigerator that's twenty four years old.

Remove ice maker and all of it's accessories in order to remove the panel covering the fan. Don't drop the screws!
Unscrew the lower fan bracket. You will see the lower red rubber grommet. Hold fan motor with one hand and push the fan off the shaft and into the compartment above. Then remove the round retainer thing below it by holding it and pulling down on the motor assembly. Install new grommet on upper part. and put it all together.
REMEMBER where the fan is on the shaft. It has about one inch of shaft placement. I put mine so that most of it was above the hole that the fan goes into and about 20 percent showing below the sheet metal.
Also check to see if your fan is damaged. Mine was not.
This refrigerator has been awesome! I have had many issues but have been able to fix all of them for the last 15 years!

Removed the fan blade then removed the motor. Replaced motora nd Installed fun blade.

Gaskets designed to just press a flange into channel around doors. I tried everything..I pre-heated gaskets ; I put dish soap around flange; I used (carefully) a heat gun as I pressed gasket in. Really very difficult to get the gasket to seat fully. I don't know if there is a tool to help you do this, but you need strong fingers/thumbs and endurance. Once seated, you will need to heat the gasket to get it to fully seal against the fridge. Just lightly heat along the gasket with the doors closed and press open the fold with your fingers. I let the doors stay closed over night. Works great now, but I probably will call a repairman the next time. I miss the old gaskets with a zillion screws..PITA, but easier.

Totally followed the instructions of the video that came with the sensor. Unplugged the the fridge, defrosted the freezer. Cut off the main sensor that usually is the one that goes out. Installed the the new sensor with new wire terminals, crimped them and covered with electrical tape. Fridge works like a charm. Partsselect is excellent. Saved me a few hundred dollars versus having a GE Tech come and do it.

Easy

Nothing much. It needed the snack pan, which it has never had.
The door was the main issue. My young son would hang on the door. We started having problems with it not closing. Then on day it snapped off. We repaired the screw but found the hole was stripped out. We moved the door to the other side. When the door fell off it broke the upper door shelf. This was a quick slide in repair that did not require any tools.

first removed two srews removed rear panel hair dryer to melt ice (took 30 minutes) cut two wires to thermostat spliced onto new part clipped it onto tube -done replace rear panel and 2 screws. very easy job after reading other letters and their experience -saved myself $500.00

Find online diagram of freezer section for reference. Disconnect power, remove evap cover plate (214) by removing one of the drawer guide rails.

As evidence of your problem, you might see a giant block of ice built up around the coil. Let this defrost this before continuing.

Find THERMOSTAT DEFROST (24) sensor and clip connecting wires. Match replacement sensor wires by color. Twist and solder wires; or wire-nuts and twisting alone might be okay. If not soldering, seal the wire-nuts connections from moister with a good sizeable piece of duct tape. Make sure your wires are out of the way and not left dangling on the evap heater coil, where they could melt.

Suggest concurrent replacement of evap fan motor if this has not already been done in the past.. This become noisy with age and damage from the ice build up seems to have made mine worse.

turn off the refrigerator,then open the cover and saw lot of ice. then get a hair dryer blower and blow a heat to melt the ice. cut the thermostat defrost.

I ordered the part but my husband had to work out of town for a week. The fridge kept getting warmer, so when the part came I just watched the video on the internet, (bit the bullet) and did the repair just as I saw it done on the video. It was simple and exactly the same as the video. It took a little longer for me because there was a lot of ice built up on the coils, so I used my hair dryer to melt the ice. My refridgerator is working great now.

Refrigerator was showing actual temperature of 80 deg, freezer was about 3 deg high. (house temp was 65 at the time) Defrost heater seemed like the only component able to heat that much, so the defrost thermostat seemed like the likely culprit. I followed the installation directions in the video, and the fridge has been fine ever since.

Unplug the refrigerator. Pull all shelves out of the freezer. Remove light bulb shield and light bulb. Remove the two hex head screws on either side of the light bulb. Wiggle out the back wall. It is a tight sqeeze, but can be done. Locate the sensor on the top of the coils. It is held on by a simple clip. Wiggle the sensor and twist a little to take it off. Take wire cutters and cut the two wires into the sensor near the sensor to allow lots of room to splice in the new sensor. Strip about a quarter inch of wires left in the freezer. Use some sort of wire connectors, like twist caps, which will allow you to connect the two wires to the new sensor. Make sure to match the colors. I used shrink tube and line connectors. Once you have the new wires spliced together and protected with either shrink tube or electrical tape, tuck the excess wire out of the way and attach the new sensor. This is easily done by slight pressure on the sensor with the tube in between the clip and sensor. Make sure the wires are tuck out of the way and reassemble the freezer panel, light bulb, and shelves in the reverse order.

I followed the instructional video. It was right on the money for accuracy in terms of part location and method of replacement.