TFM26PRDAAA General Electric Refrigerator - Instructions

Ordered new auger and ice bucket assembly. Removed old door and with four screws I attached it to the new unit. Works very well!

I had to call for a appointment for repair with GE Appliance because I thought then it . .was something electrical. The technician came out & checked everything out, turned out it was not electrical, The technician went out to his truck got a light bulb from his truck, put it in & it worked. It cost me $121.00 for trip charge from GE appliance for a light bulb that worked, your light bulbs were defective twice. Very disappointed with your products, cost me alot of money for a good light bulb thru GE appliance

My husband just pulled out the defective ice bucket and replaced the new one.

Removed the ice maker from the freezer. Removed the switch. Tested the switch with a multimeter. Ordered a new switch. Replaced it in the box. Installed the ice maker ( 3screws and electric cord plug. It works. Details available on the internet.

I supported door with 2* 6 scrap wood. I used cedar shingles to raise door to correct height.
Using a socket wrench, I removed the hinge from the fridge and the cam assembly from the door.
I installed the new hinge and cam using the shims thatwere behind the original parts.
I removed the 2*6 supports and the door now works perfectly.

Shut off water and disconnected at factory joint at bottom hinge. Unplugged the electrical at the top hinge. Removed the door and installed new bottom hinge and cam assembly. Reinstalled the door and hooked water and electric back up. Part worked fine.

Ordered the icemaker replacement. unplugged the unit, followed the simple instructions and got it done in less than 30 minutes. It did take a LONG time to start making ice. But it's working now.

I used pliers to pull lightly on the head of the switch, while I inserted a small flat head screw driver into the base of switch and gently worked around the edges to free it from the panel.

Removed old hinge assembly, bolted on new assembly-door shut like new

First I propped up the door. Then I removed the 2 screws that hold the hinge on. AT this point you do need someone else because the door swings loose. I attached the new bracket and lowered the door. It went verey smooth. I ordered the new bracket after reading the installation stories from others who just repaced the plastic pieces. Its worth the extra money to just put on a new bracket

Was concerned that new icemaker was quite a bit different than the one we were replacing. Called GE to confirm it was correct.

Went ahead and installed the unit, using the supplied electric cable adapter.

A little difficult to deal with the extra cable, but everything worked OK and it's making ice normally.

Turned off The water supply. Removed the back panel corner(nut driver). Removed valve (nut driver) and water supply inlet line. Cut the old outlet lines at the valve (new lines are push in) disconnected electrical lines, Reinstalled inlet line and electrical lines. Reinstalled valve and back panel. Turned on the water. Ice maker filled with water and a short time later I had ice. Easy job.

Removed the ice bucket and removed the screw at the rear of the broken shelf. The front hole had a pop rivet in it, so I got a small angle motor with a 5/32 drill in it and drilled the center of the rivet out then removed the rivet. Replaced the shelf and screwed the rear screw in and replaced the front rivet with a #8 screw.

First Remove the screw and cover from the left top front of the fridge using a Phillips Screw Driver # 2
Then using a nut driver 1/4 of inch (or Socket set)
remove the two nuts holding the door hinge keeping the door in closed position. Now unplug the electrical connector between the door and the fridge body(Simply pulling it apart) Now hold the door from the middle and raise it up so that it can slide out from the bottom hole, on the main body
Now place the door on a table or a flat surface(Put may be a sheet or some thing to prevent the finish from getting scratched) Now remove the nuts around the inner panel of the door(nut Driver or Socket set) Remove the old lining and discard .Install the new lines and then replace every thing in the reverse order.
Note : Before tighting the top nuts of the door, make sure you keep the door aligened so you would not have to do it after completeing the job.

Procedure for Replacing the Ice Chute Plate
1. Turn off the power.
2. Snap off the outside trim ring. Use a plastic screwdriver to avoid scratching the cabinet.
3. Locate the three small holes below the control panel facing, just above ice chute. The center hole is not used. With a small, blunt, object (wire – blunted nail) that is slightly smaller than the holes, push up rather firmly up through the outer holes to release front control panel.
4. Remove the three wire connectors from printed circuit board. Firmly pull/pry them straight out of retaining clip. Use caution: Excessive force will break clips.
5. Release the secondary panel by removing four screws (one in each corner).
6. Remove the flap assembly.
7. Clean all accessible areas with 1/10 bleach water to sanitize. Rinse the cleaned area with clear water and thoroughly dry everything before re-assembling the panel.
8. Install the new flap assembly.
9. Re-installed everything in the reverse order and check the functionality.
10. Order a spare ice chute flapper to be ready for the next event.