GBS22HBPABB General Electric Refrigerator - Instructions

I easily removed the screws and then removed the board and took a picture so I would remember how to re-connect it. It was really easy and now my refrigerator is working great. If I can do it anyone can do it. My husband was amazed that I did it all by myself.

Used 1/4 nut driver and drill to take off acc pnl. The repair amounted to unplugging several connectors, removing the old motherboard, installing the new board and reconnecting the wires. this solved the problem and the whole appliance seems to run better.

according to the vidio showing how to to change the control board its look relatively easy i dont think i will have a problem changing it ,,but will i change the right part for the problem " the frige take to long to get cold again after thrawing state freezer temperature went up to 19 * or more sometime ,,thermostat has been changed and its solved the ice deposit problem" hopefully changing the control board will help shorting the long thrawing state" the board has not been changed cause the frige start working again

I ensured that the refrigerator was unplugged from the power, removed the main board enclosure cover, carefully unplugged the wiring connectors from the board, released the 4 plastic standoffs with needle nosed pliers by gently squeezing the ends and removed the board.
I placed the new Main Control Board on the standoffs, carefully re-connected the electrical connectors, ensuring that the plugs were mated correctly, replaced the board enclosure cover and powered up the refrigerator to verify operation of the compressor, fans and controls.
Once verified, I unplugged the refrigerator from the power, removed the access cover to the compressor and condenser and carefully cleaned all dust and lint from the back and underside of the refrigerator before replacing the cover and putting the refrigerator back into service.
The cleaning will improve the efficient operation of the refrigerator.

Checked this website for symptoms described, found same descrip, ordered mainboard, changed out in less then 30 minutes, Frig working properly now. Follow the installation instructions carefully as this mainboard fits other frig's & depending on model some wires need to be cut on harness etc.

Removed broken part from refrigerator.
Removed 2 plastic parts and tempered glass shelf
and installed on new part.
Change out went OK.
A few tools and some patience

Job complete

first empty both sides then took apart freezer area ice maker-light cover-back cover and exposed fanchecked all connections ordered fan[had no amp probe to see if power at motor repaceed fan still fan didnot runmoved fridg out from wall found control board didnt find any thing wrongto the eye ordered control board remove all connectionsused plyers be easy to remove from board squezed little whit tabs[3 or 4] to remove board from fridge installed new board snapping the pegs back into holes then reinstallwire connectors [ps the board comes with a few extra ports dont worryjust connect to the ones on the old board] dont forget to hook up green groung wire when you put cover back on then plug in and turned on closed up the freezer and reinstalled icemaker and other parts started and all seems ok good luck

Having been in the h vac field for thirty years,I started looking for the defrost timer and found the circuit board. I went on-line and found PartSelect. The site was very helpful in helping me to find the part I needed.The clips were a little hard to get off the old board, but besides that the installation was pretty easy.

Removed small panel on back of refrigerator, lower right hand side as you face the back. Removed old mother board and installed new one per provided instructions. Ice/water dispenser operation returned to noraml. The only tricky part is removing the motherboard because it's held in with platic clips that have to be pinched with pliers in order to slide the motherboard over them. Look carefully and you'll see which way to pinch them.

Replaced circuit board / fixed problem

Moved fridge out from wall. Unplugged. Removed circuitboard cover 6 screws?). Replaced circuit board (showed burn spots on back side). Replaced cover and plugged back in.

was not home when part came so my wife installed it enough said

I found a burn solder on the main board.
replace it. works again.

I pulled the fridge out away from the wall, unplugged fridge, and found the panel that the main control board was behind. after comparing old board with the new i unpluged all of the connections unscrewed four screws and installed new board in reverse order. very simple..

First, the part arrived very quickly- 2days (FedEx). Removed the back panel, began pulling multi-prong plugs from the old board. To remove the plug that came out laterally (power wires?), I used a thin screwdriver to press the retaining clips on the side of each pin (4 white) holding the circuit board in place and pulled it out for clearance, then wiggled the multi plug free from the board. [I didn't put a lot of pressure on the board while pulling these plugs- 'cause if the new board didn't work, I'd still have the old one.]

Installation was pretty much the reverse of all the steps above. Thankfully, this unit did not have a bottom freezer as two steps in the instructions would have made it riskier.
Once plugged in, I listened for the fan and compressor to kick-in, didn't hear them (was concerned at first), but the dispenser worked ("yea!")- both crushed and cubed ice. The water worked also and it's been running fine for a couple of weeks now. After checking the temp settings they seemed more stable, the fan and compressor kicked in after a few minutes, and the ice-maker is working better than before (fills more quickly). Also, it seems to run less which makes me think I've been wasting electricity while the old control board was bad. Who knows what temps it was trying to reach on each side?
Not that hard to repair, but read the instructions 'very' closely so you don't do something (like cut a wire) that doesn't apply to your fridge. Tim