TFG22ZRTCWH General Electric Refrigerator - Instructions

The video to replace the flapper looks easy, howerer the first step is to remove thestic cover of the icemaker. In my refrigerator model (as oposed to teh one shown n teh video) teh coved if firmly attached and goes under the refrigerator external plate so I was never abel to take it oot (so step 1 failed).
I was able to replace the flapper TROUGH the whole whre te ice comes from! this took lots of patients and someone with small hands!

Thanks to the stories on PartSelect my wife and I knew what to expect. The biggest hassle was sawing off the rivet that's on the hinge on the refrigerator (my wife volunteered for that job). When we got everything back together the door worked a lot better, but still wouldn't close without a little push. In frustration and running out of time, we put the stuff back inside the refrigerator door and that did the trick! The weight was enough to allow the door to close on its own.

There was what seemed to be a half chewed up washer under the refig. door. The door wasn't closing all the way. DING!! Something was wrong!!

I looked up your schematic for the refrig door and decided what piece might have broken. It was a good guess and the part showed up a few days later.

I wedged up the refrig door to take the tension off the lower bracket. Then, just took off the bracket and replaced the broken door closing cam.

Replaced dispenser flapper

I used a block of wood to hold up the door. Then unbolted the lower hinge from the fridge. That is when I found out that it was fine and it was the upper half of the hinge that was broken (worn).
So I unbolted the upper hinge (mounted on the bottom of door) It uses the same part. So I installed the part on the upper half of the hinge.

I wish somebody would have told me that you need 2 of these for each hinge. The bottom one was in good shape, lucky for me.

First, I had to remove the face plate where the ice and water was dispensed remove 4 screws holding the electrical circuits, disconnect circuits ,remove 2 screws holding soleniod and one screw holdin crank assembly. repace parts and screws.

I removed two screws at the top of the door, lifted the door off. I got lucky: the broken cam was the one on the door (easy to remove), not the one on the body of the refrigerator (tough to remove).
There is a shim which was also broken - no way to know that ahead of time. I bent a 5/8" lock washer flat and it served acceptably as a shim.
It would be helpful if PartSelect.com could include with its listing of the cam, the fact that (1) the shim will probably be needed, and (2) there's a very good chance that you'll need TWO of the cams as well.

The bottom of the door was 5 " off the floor. A 2x4 block and a 4x4 block were pushed under the door and supported it while the water line was disconnected the hinge removed and the cam replaced. It was a simple fix and reading other people's experience made the repair so much easier.

Removed screws holding top door hinge. Lifted the door off bottom hinge. Unscrewed cam from bottom of door. Drilled out rivet holding the second cam in the bottom hinge. Replaced both cams using a flat headed bolt to hold the bottom cam. Dropped door into bottom hinge and replaced top hinge screws. Job done.

Make sure you buy two cams and have a bolt to replace the bottom rivet.

Not a difficult job as long as you have a drill !!!

Why don't they just tell you that you have to buy 2 cams. I have now replaced the cams on both doors. The other door broke about 4 years ago. Fortunately the first time I read the user commetns or I would've bought just one. It is a quick easy fix. The longest step is drilling out and replacing the rivet. Everything else is done with a nut driver.

removed the door, installed the cam riser, and reattached the door. It took longer to remove the contents in the door than it did to install the cam riser.

Removed refrigerator door and replaced bottom door pivot with the included mating cam and the door closing cam on the bottom of the door.

I didn't know that there were two mating cams and only ordered the door closing cam which I read online was the problem. It was the number one part on the part select list. The number two part was a kit including the door closing cam and the pivot with mating cam attached. It would have been helpful if there had been some notes that said check condition of both cams before ordering the part. So I have a spare door closing cam and paid an extra $19 including $8 shipping which negated a return.

The repair is easy - getting the right parts the first time is the trick.

completely removed door, then replaced worn-out cam on bottom of door-simple enough; then removed hinge from bottom of refrigerator; removing old cam required drilling out the rivet that fastened cam to hinge; secured new cam to hinge with small machine screw and nut. This procedure is relatively easy but does require minor mechanical ability and having a small drill and bit set. However, replacing the two cams totally fixed the problem.

I took the top over off the pivet bracket and used a nut driver to remove the screws on the pivet. Lifted the door off and put on some saw horsess. I revoved the pieces of the old cam on the door by taking out the screw and put the new cam back.
I then drilled out the rivet on the bracket on the door and removed the broken cam. replaced it with the new one and used a screw and nut to replace the rivet. Put the door back and works great now.

Thought I would only need one when I looked at the picture of the parts. Decided to order two just in case and after taking it apart both were broken. Needed two.
Took the top door bracket off and lifted the door off of the bottom bracket. Re-assembled cams, put a little white grease on all moving parts, placed the door into bottom bracket and installed top bracket. Adjusted top bracket to make door line up with edge of refrigerator and all is well.