MSX22GRZAWW General Electric Refrigerator - Instructions

Determined that the little door that opens to allow full size cubes to fall was not opening. If you open freezer door, hold door switch in, select cubes and push in the lever that the glass pushes in you should hear the solenoid lift open which opens the little door. Mine was doing nothing. Removed ice bin and then removed icemaker motor/solenoid section from back of freezer by disconnecting two wire harnesses and one screw. Found that solenoid smelled burnt and could see that inside of the solenoid was swollen out of round and burnt. Simple to replace.

First, I had to remove the face plate where the ice and water was dispensed remove 4 screws holding the electrical circuits, disconnect circuits ,remove 2 screws holding soleniod and one screw holdin crank assembly. repace parts and screws.

I used a block of wood to hold up the door. Then unbolted the lower hinge from the fridge. That is when I found out that it was fine and it was the upper half of the hinge that was broken (worn).
So I unbolted the upper hinge (mounted on the bottom of door) It uses the same part. So I installed the part on the upper half of the hinge.

I wish somebody would have told me that you need 2 of these for each hinge. The bottom one was in good shape, lucky for me.

After removing the panels, and numerous screws, i was able to remove the part from the door. Using a ladder next to the door to support the part, I was able to peel off the heater wiring on the back of the part, and disconnect the wiring to allow for replacement of the parts. Just take your time, as things will come apart, but having support for the parts frees up both hands to do the wiring removals and eventual replacement. I estimated about an hour and a half to do the replacement.

Thanks to the stories on PartSelect my wife and I knew what to expect. The biggest hassle was sawing off the rivet that's on the hinge on the refrigerator (my wife volunteered for that job). When we got everything back together the door worked a lot better, but still wouldn't close without a little push. In frustration and running out of time, we put the stuff back inside the refrigerator door and that did the trick! The weight was enough to allow the door to close on its own.

Replaced dispenser flapper

Thought I would only need one when I looked at the picture of the parts. Decided to order two just in case and after taking it apart both were broken. Needed two.
Took the top door bracket off and lifted the door off of the bottom bracket. Re-assembled cams, put a little white grease on all moving parts, placed the door into bottom bracket and installed top bracket. Adjusted top bracket to make door line up with edge of refrigerator and all is well.

completely removed door, then replaced worn-out cam on bottom of door-simple enough; then removed hinge from bottom of refrigerator; removing old cam required drilling out the rivet that fastened cam to hinge; secured new cam to hinge with small machine screw and nut. This procedure is relatively easy but does require minor mechanical ability and having a small drill and bit set. However, replacing the two cams totally fixed the problem.

The bottom of the door was 5 " off the floor. A 2x4 block and a 4x4 block were pushed under the door and supported it while the water line was disconnected the hinge removed and the cam replaced. It was a simple fix and reading other people's experience made the repair so much easier.

Replaced the old cams with new ones, door works perfect now.

1. Unplug the fridge
2. Removed the outer facing of the dispenser outside the freezer door. This is fairly easy, better with a tool (plastic scraper) that won't mar the finish.
3. Removed the plastic plate with labels -- water, ice, etc. This is done by sliding a small jewelers screwdriver into the slots on the left, middle and right in back of the plate. These are difficult to see without a flashlight.
4. Removed the four screws in the panel behind this plate.
5. Unpluged the large cable on the left side after the panel is freed.
5. Removed the rubber "dispenser" button. this just pulls off.
6. Remove the panel
7. Lift flapper up and remove. Clips hold this in.
8. Put new flapper in place.
9. Use reverse order to put back together.
Piece of cake. Ice maker no longer frosts up.!!!!

I did not realize I needed 2 cams to complete repair. Door cam was riveted in. I had to drill out rivet and replace with nut and bolt. Otherwise it went quite sommothly. At first I just replaced the cam on bottom of refridgerator but door was not quite right when closing. Further inspection showed the door had the other half of cam that also needed replacement. Needed 2 orders. Paid for 2 shippings.

Removed ice dispenser trim from bottom-up and then removed control panel by gently pulling up from the bottom. Removed four screws holding dispenser chute and then two screws holing flapper assembly. Replaced gnarly old flapper with a new one and put all removed pieces back together.

Followed previous poster's steps. Replacement of door closing cams took 35 minutes. Make sure you buy 2 cams for each door.

The old plastic door closer cam on bottom of the the door had broken. What was left of it was held on by a hex head screw. There was also a fiber spacer under the cam that was broken. I made a new one out of a piece of aluminum, but cardboard probably would have worked.

Forgot to mention you have to take the door off first--loosen the two screws on the top hinge and lift the door out of the bottom hinge.

I found the self-closing sometimes won't work well until there is some weight in the door.