GTS17BCRELCC General Electric Refrigerator - Instructions

after watching how easy it was to get to the evaporator fan motor on u-tube, I took out the motor to inspect it......the motor had about 1/8 inch shaft end play and a slight amount of play on the shaft, the rubber grommets looked OK.....I then put it back together......since the motor was the only moving part in this location I figured it had to be the part making the noise, so I ordered a motor and 2 grommets …...the replacement motor also had 1/8 inch end play on the shaft, but no play on the shaft....I installed the new parts and it has been a week now and no noise.....SUCCESS!...….the shaft on the motor protrudes from the motor, and the fan is mounted about 1 1/4 inch away from the bearing in the motor and the fan is unsupported, so I ASSUME that the slight amount of play on the shaft caused some harmonics which caused it to make noise some of the time, but not all of the time......

My son did it , and showed me what he did when he was finished.

I ended up needing to order a new ice maker because the one I had is discontinued. I'm a 65yr old grandma and I did it myself!!!! The hardest part was finding the tool to loosed the nuts. I took the old one out and just put the new one right in it's place. Easy as pie.

removed cover over fan, four screws. removed two screws ,that holds fan in place,removed two more screws that holds fan in bracket,then reinstalled

1) TURNED POWER OFF FROM REFRIGERATOR 2) REMOVED THE FREEZER SHELF FIRST BY GENTLY TAPPING THE LEFT SIDE UP AND OUT THEN THE RIGHT SIDE UP AND OUT 3) REMOVED THE 2 PHILLIPS SCREWS HOLDING THE EVAPORATIVE FAN COVER IN PLACE 4) GENTLY PUSHED THE COVER UP AND MAKING SURE THE 2 CLIPS WERE NOT DAMAGED 5) VERY GENTLY PUSHED UP ON THE STYRO FOAM SHIELD GRASPING IT FROM THE BOTTOM, BE VERY CAREFUL NOT TO CRACK OR DAMAGE THIS 6) THEN REMOVED 4 OF THE PHILLIPS SCREWS HOLDING THE BACK PANEL 7) THEN REMOVED THE 2 SCREWS HOLDING THE FAN MOTOR IN POSITION ON THE BACK COVER AND LAID THAT ASIDE 8) I COULD THEN SEE THE MOTOR SO I UNCLIPPED THE RED/DARK WIRE CLIP FROM THE HARNESS WITH MY FINGERS, THEN TOOK MY NEEDLE NOSE PLIERS AND GENTLY PULLED UP ON THE GREEN GROUND WIRE 9) I THEN REMOVED THE 2 PHILLIPS HEAD SCREWS HOLDING THE MOTOR BRACKET TO THE WALL OF THE FREEZER 10) THEN REMOVED THE ENTIRE MOTOR AND PUT THAT ON THE KITCHEN TABLE 11) TOOK MY NEEDLE NOSE PLIERS AND VERY, VERY GENTLY PRIED OFF THAT LITTLE METAL RING HOLDING THE FAN BLADE ON (TRICKY SO LEFT UP GENTLY)...I BOUGHT ADDITIONAL IN CASE I DAMAGED IT 12) TOOK MY 5/16 NUT DRIVER AND UNSCREWED THE TOP METAL BRACKET HOLDING THE MOTOR 13) LIFTED THE MOTOR OFF AND LOOKED AT THE TOP AND BOTTOM GROMMETS TO SEE IF DAMAGED OR CRACKED (I BOUGHT ADDITIONAL GROMMETS IN CASE THEY WERE CRACKED OR DAMAGED, EASY FIX) 14) THEN ATTACHED THE NEW MOTOR AND BASICALLY SIMPLY DID EVERYTHING IN REVERSE TO INSTALL THE NEW MOTOR. MAKE SURE YOU KEEP YOUR SCREWS IN ORDER SO YOU CAN IDENTIFY WHICH PART THEY CAME FROM. MAKE SURE YOU DO NOT PINCH AND WIRES WHEN RE-INSTALLING THE MOTOR. SAVED ME A REPAIR PERSON CALL.

This was so easy. Got the model number off the refrigerator door. Internet searched and found this website. Ordered the part. Waited maybe 3-4 days for it to arrive. Opened the box, open refrigerator door remove old broken part, install new part and reinstall the drawers. Piece of cake!! So glad I didn’t have to replace a perfectly good refrigerator. Thank you.

Remove power from the unit. With short length #2 Phillips loosen and remove the two(2) screws on the control panel located center top of the refrigeration area. Slide the control panel back about 1/2 inch and allow it to dangle from its wiring harness. Pinch the locking tab on the harness connector with one hand and use the other hand to separate the two sides. A little force is required. Remove the control panel from the refrigerator and shut the refrigerator door. Examine and note the routing of the temperature probe (Silver colored flexible wire) take a picture for later reference. Remove the old and replace with new unit. route temperature probe like the replaced unit. Reverse the steps and reinstall the control panel. It is a good idea to also purchase and replace the defrost timer.

removed broken bin , slid new ice bin in closed door. I bought the complete part.

All the repair people was on the money . I read them all .1--- NO paper work with new valve (.no instructions) ..2--- bracket is not the same .. I reversed my braket and it worked fine .you do not have to bend bracket.3--- It will take a day or so to start making ice..4--- the plastic nut is no longer needed on the new type outlet valve ....5--- the new outlet valve looks a little different from the old valve. WORKS GREAT ..

The icemaker arm disconnected from the metal frame. This caused the icemaker to cycle and the heater to come on and stay on until the plastic parts melted causing a mess and stink. This action melted the ice and then the water fell through the frozen items in the freezer and refreezed in the lower portion. OK, I remover the dead icemaker and tossed it away. I installed the new icemaker and the wiring harness didn't fit right (way to long). I retrieved the old icemaker and removed the wiring harness from it. I removerd the new ice maker and installed the old wiring harness to the new icemaker. I then installed the new icemaker, plugged it in and turned on the power. No water, I ordered the dual solenoid water valve, installed it with difficulty (another story) the turned on the power. I reinstalled the ice bin and found it didn't fit. The icemaker was to low and couldn't be adjusted, 1/4" higher would have been great. I shoved in the bin anyway, I was out of ice for my scotch, and it started making ice.

Removed the door by removing the two screws holding it on. Do not try to do this repair with the door attached. Easily removed the old gasket. Getting the new one on the door was EXTREMELY difficult. I couldn't do it. After 90 minutes, I gave up and called my appliance repairman. When he arrived, he and I worked together to get the new gasket on the door. It took 2 sets of hands to do this. It still took us about 40 minutes. My repairman had a few choice words about the design of the system holding the gasket on the door. Ditto for me. So the cost of my repair was doubled because I had to pay the repairman to help me attach the new gasket. I should have just bought a new fridge.

Replaced temp controller

To remove the temp sensor.2 Phillip head screws not remove the cover inside fridge .the temp control knob cover.removed that and unplugged switch.installed new switch.reinstalled cover.

instalation was very easy - but the part was 3/4 inch to long and a 1/32 inch to wide.Trimmed it with the "faithfull"
Dremel and it works!The instalation part of the "job" was less then 10 min.

First, remove the cardboard cover on the back, lower portion of the refrigerator.

Next, locate the condensor fan motor assembly and blade. (Right side as you are facing)

Using a pliers, hold the shaft to keep it from turning and prevent damage to the motor. Using a screwdriver, slide the old ring compression on the blade shaft toward the motor (away from the fan blades) to loosen.

Remove old blade from the shaft by firmly grasping the motor shaft with a pliers (to prevent from damaging) and pull the blade assembly off.

Reverse the above steps to attach the new blade.