GBS20KBRBCC General Electric Refrigerator - Instructions
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- Customer:
- HECTOR from INGLESIDE, TX
- Parts Used:
- WR55X10942C
- Difficulty Level:
- Really Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- Less than 15 mins
- Tools:
- Nutdriver
Faulty Motherboard
Disconnected power at outlet. Removed three screws from access panel. Disconnected six electrical connections, compressed three plastic retaining pins and removed board. Installed new board and reconnected connections, installed three screws on access panel and turned the fridge on. No more crazy evaporator motor noise
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- Customer:
- scott from washington, NC
- Parts Used:
- WR55X10942C
- Difficulty Level:
- Really Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- Less than 15 mins
- Tools:
- Nutdriver, Pliers
freezer would freeze then thaw
diagnosis, fan would run more than normal, compressor would only come on sometimes, check line voltage to the mother board (yes !!! a mother board with a relay for the compressor built onto it )! check the switched voltage out to the compressor. If a/c 115 in but no a/c 115 out while the fan is on replace the mother board. Remember this is a LIVE VOLTAGE TEST, BE CAREFUL HOW AND WHAT YOU TOUCH YOUR LIFE IS NOT WORTH SAVING A REPAIR BILL !!!
I suppose if if went long enough in this condition the result would be fan runs a lot but it does not get cold.
Hope this helps
God Bless
Captain Scott Cousins
I suppose if if went long enough in this condition the result would be fan runs a lot but it does not get cold.
Hope this helps
God Bless
Captain Scott Cousins
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- Customer:
- Shelby from Sturgis, SD
- Parts Used:
- WR55X10942C
- Difficulty Level:
- Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- 15 - 30 mins
- Tools:
- Nutdriver, Pliers
Ice and water dispensers were not working, Control board was making a clicking noise.
Disconnected power, removed screws from cover on back of refrigerator, unpluged wire connectors, squezzed four support fasteners and removed old board. Put new board on support fasteners, reconnected wiring, replaced cover, pluged power back in, turned controls back on. It wored fine.
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- Customer:
- Anthony from Yardley, PA
- Parts Used:
- WR55X10942C
- Difficulty Level:
- Really Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- Less than 15 mins
- Tools:
- Nutdriver
Freezer and refrigerator would get warm, followed by it getting cold again, doing this numerous times throughout the day.
After determining it was not a problem with the defrost cycle, ( this refrigerator had no separate defrost timer), I ordered the main circuit board with the hope that the relays built into it were hanging up and not properly turning on the compressor, (a chattering sound could be heard). Ten screws to take the access cover to the board off and a few connectors later and it was as good as new. Took about ten minutes!
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- Customer:
- Fred from Vineland, NJ
- Parts Used:
- WR55X10942C
- Difficulty Level:
- Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- 15 - 30 mins
- Tools:
- Nutdriver
Circuit Board was clicking and refrigerator was not working properly
narrowed it down to the circuit board...removed cover panel after unplugging frig. read directions thouroughly.... removed cables attached to old board. this is the tricky part removing the board from the plastic clips....broke two pulling old board off popped new Board onto remaining plastic mounting clips and reattached cables plugged frig in and got a shock as my shoulder touched the board. everything seemed to be working and but cover back on....viola all done.
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- Customer:
- Dan from COLUMBIA, SC
- Parts Used:
- WR55X10025
- Difficulty Level:
- Really Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- 15 - 30 mins
- Tools:
- Pliers, Socket set
Refrigerator not getting cold
Replaced Temperature Sensor and now it is getting cold.
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- Customer:
- Joe from Stevensville, MD
- Parts Used:
- WR55X10942C
- Difficulty Level:
- Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- 15 - 30 mins
- Tools:
- Screw drivers
Continuous clicking noise, compressor was not running
Removed the old control board at the rear of the refigerator, installed the replacement board.
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- Customer:
- Raul from Columbia, MD
- Parts Used:
- WR55X10942C
- Difficulty Level:
- Really Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- 15 - 30 mins
- Tools:
- Nutdriver
Control panel on the front door became was dead. Replace the Main control board was de solution suggested by a Technician.
I followed instructions in your video. at the beggining I hesitated because the original card had two fewer ports than the new one. but after a call to a Partselect representative I confirm that I had the right card. after that it was a matter of connet wires to the ports. 1 week later my refrigerator is running smooth. Thaks a to Partselect I have saved a bunch of money.
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- Customer:
- John from Hopewell Junction, NY
- Parts Used:
- WR55X10942C
- Difficulty Level:
- Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- 15 - 30 mins
- Tools:
- Pliers, Screw drivers
Fridge/Freezer bad temps and clicking sounds from rear
Found out via searches that the most likely failed part was the Main Control Board. A simple repair with basic tools and a HUGE savings. Thanks to everyone here for the posts.
PS - on my particular GE model PFS22SISBSS there was no need to cut any wires as per the instructions because the wires did not exist on this unit.
PS - on my particular GE model PFS22SISBSS there was no need to cut any wires as per the instructions because the wires did not exist on this unit.
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- Customer:
- Kirk from Rio Rancho, NM
- Parts Used:
- WR55X10942C
- Difficulty Level:
- Really Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- 15 - 30 mins
- Tools:
- Nutdriver, Screw drivers
Ice/Water dispenser would not work and refrigerator stopped cooling
The first and most important step was to diagnose the problem. To do this I found the Parts Select website and the part I thought was the problem. The previous repairs stories helped me to pin point the problem. The mother board came within a couple of days. All I had to do was take the back plate/guard off, unplug the connectors in the back, unclip the mother board and then do the reverse over again. The only problem was the ground wire. I had to take the one off that came with the part and switch it out with the old one, because it would not connect to my refrigerator. This was fairly simple and in about 30 min. I was done and had our refrigerator back. Luckily we had another in the garage as a back up so we didn't loose any food.
Thanks Parts Select
Thanks Parts Select
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- Customer:
- Trevor from Brooklyn, NY
- Parts Used:
- WR55X10942C
- Difficulty Level:
- Difficult
- Total Repair Time:
- 1- 2 hours
Refrigerator failed to get cold.
the new board was more complicated than the old, however the install instructions seem to have anticipated this. It works for mow. thanks for inquiring'
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- Customer:
- Michael from Fairfax, VA
- Parts Used:
- WR32X10468
- Difficulty Level:
- Really Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- Less than 15 mins
glass shelf was shattered
Unwrapped and simply inserted. Saved 30% from OEM part.
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- Customer:
- Madelaine from Stuart, FL
- Parts Used:
- WR32X10468
- Difficulty Level:
- Really Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- Less than 15 mins
Glass shelf was broken
just popped in the new glass shelf
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- Customer:
- adam from murfreesboro, TN
- Parts Used:
- WR55X10942C
- Difficulty Level:
- Really Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- Less than 15 mins
- Tools:
- Nutdriver, Pliers, Screw drivers
Lights on water dispencer went out. Then both sides of fridge went out. Wouldn't cool or freeze. Only lights in fridge would work.
Pull fridge out. Pull the little 6 by 12 silver plate off on the back middle bottom of fridge. Disconnect the quick connects . Remove from 4 plastic pins. Them reassemble.
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- Customer:
- Jeffrey from Downingtown, PA
- Parts Used:
- WR55X10942C
- Difficulty Level:
- Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- Less than 15 mins
- Tools:
- Nutdriver
Warm Interior - Evaporator (inside) fan failed
I found this failure at midnight, was able to determine loss of voltage at J2 Pin 3 to 4, causing the fan failure. Jumpering with a staple from Pin 5 to 4 allowed the evap fan to run from the condensor fan supply for the few days waiting for the part. Not pretty, but it saved the food. Running like that forced the evap fan to high speed, so I had to set the thermostats lower (higher temp)
1. To un-mount the board, use needle nose to gently squeeze plastic bayonets one at a time and lift that corner clear.
2. Mark each connector J1, J3, J4, J2, J5 to match the mark on the old board
3. Gently work each connector off, replace board, and re-land each connector. The new board will have a ground wire. Just trap the lug under the upper left cover plate screw..
1. To un-mount the board, use needle nose to gently squeeze plastic bayonets one at a time and lift that corner clear.
2. Mark each connector J1, J3, J4, J2, J5 to match the mark on the old board
3. Gently work each connector off, replace board, and re-land each connector. The new board will have a ground wire. Just trap the lug under the upper left cover plate screw..
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