GTS22ICSARWW General Electric Refrigerator - Instructions

no brainer,watched the video,worst thing was to thaw the freezer,it was realy frosted,works like new,very happy thank you.

Just follow the instructions from the Youtube, the link to the video is included in the sheet coming with the part. It was easy to take the entire compartment out as instructed, however, after replace the old motor with the new one, it took more than 20 min to put the entire compartment back after trying different ways. It has been working greatly since it was repaired.

Not knowing anything about a refrigerator it was hard to find the source of the noise. Once I could isolate it we googled the appliance repair and found the video from Parts Select and the rest was a piece of cake. Saved a service call and bloated parts prices. Thank you Parts Select!!!

Located temperature sensor on condenser in the freezer section( as per instructional video ). Cut off bad sensor with wire cutter then soldered on the new sensor and sealed with electrical shrink wrap.

as per video- follow all of the videos and u r going to save a lot of money tx partselect im glad I found u guys ps only order from partselect.com they only ship the correct parts remember look at the video select the symptom and buy as per video tx again problemsolved

replaced the icemaker inlet valve. works like a champ now

My compressor fan that blows over the coils was not spinning. I measured 120 VAC going to the fan so I knew it should have been spinning but wasn't. Took fan motor out and took it apart and super lubed the motor to get it spinning again temporarily until I could get the new one in. Put new one in and has been working for about 10 days now. Freezer is not below 0 deg F which is what you want. Frig is below 40 deg F also what you want.

Replaced all the sensors in both the feezer and refrigerator.Even though it colder now it still is not cold enough.Freezer won't freeze items but is cold and refrigerator still not real cold

condenser fan on bottom condenser not runningchanged fan and fan motor

I followed the instructions in the video regarding removal, repair and reinstall. It all went as the video said, except for the reinstall. The rear tab did not snick into place like the one in the video did, and it was extremely difficult to see whether or not it was inserted properly. I ended up inserting the rear tab by feel, and then I had to hold it in place while I stretched the front part of the frame to line up the screw hole in order to reinsert the screw. I had to have my wife hold the flashlight while I did that in order to see. Other than that, the repair went well, it is working like a charm, and I know I have a quality GE part in my refrigerator again! Many thanks to Partselect for their speediness in getting the part to me and giving me the needed information in getting the repair done! I will shop here again.

I removed the ice maker, and removed the upper plastic covers, that just snap in and out of their locations, you can then see the evaporator fan blades. then I removed 2 hex screws, located in the top corners, holding a metal cover in place,lifting up from the bottom of the cover and slowly pulling it out of the freezer compartment. I can now see the screws holding the evaporator fan motor in place. Unplug the connector wiring to the motor and unclip the ground wire from the frame, It is easier to replace the fan blade,lid bumpers, dust cap,grommets, and fan motor this way. while you have everything in easy access, I took time to clean everything and replaced the foam strips, assure tight fit causing excellent air flow, when operating. the cause of the whining and knocking noise, was worn out grommets and bearing going bad in the motor. I reassembled everything in reverse order, being very careful not to get cut or burnt on the fins and tubing in the back of the freezer. Do not drop any thing down the drains while removing and /or reassembling, those items will cause lots of havoc to the lower fan and motor for the refrigerator, lay a towel in the bottom when you start working on it.. I then plugged it back up and there was on noise, works great.

Had to remove all the covers and fans to expose the condenser, which was difficult as the parts were frozen to it. The styrofoam covering the condenser made it almost impossible to defrost it. Therefore, I ripped the styrofoam off to expose the condenser. Was not really difficult to fix the styrofoam cover using metal tape. Replaced temperature sensor in aluminum block, and used butyl sealant to secure. Had to also re-install parts of ice-ball kit that were not well covered. Lots of parts to keep track of, but anyone could do it.

What an awesome site! After putting in my model number and finding the problem I was having, I simply picked the 2 parts that were most likely to solve the problem. I bought a defrost thermostat, and defrost heater. To a high certainty, they would solve my problem. They didn't however! I ended up having to buy a temperature sensor on another order a few weeks later when the problem resurfaced! My own fault. I should have bought it the first time. As others have written: the longest part of the job is defrosting the ice from the coil. One thing I did that I didn't see suggested: plug the drain hole below the coil. I put a couple towels in the bottom of the freezer and ran the hair dryer. Didn't take long. I read that the amount of water created will overflow the pan under the refrigerator, so I plugged the drain hole. Once you clean that mess up, the repair is pretty straight forward. Great site. Even through I had to make two separate purchases, I still saved a lot of money. Thanks!

First, I had to remove the freezer drawer front. This is 8 large phillips head screws. then remove the plastic cover over the drawer slides. to do this, remove the white center screw from the slide near where it attaches to the drawer front. then the plastic cover will slide off pushing to the rear of the slide. take off the slides from the freezer walls by removing the phillips screws and pulling them towards you. They have tabs/slots in the rear. remove the center tray support and support bars, too. the icemaker has to come out, that is just 2 phillips screws but you also have to disconnect the electrical connector. just squeeze the locking wings and rock/pull. a screw in the top center of the back panel comes out. Lift and pull the back panel out. The evaporator coil appears. The thermocouple is attached to the coil in the upper right. Cut that one's wires and take it out. Just cut back about an inch from the back of the thermocouple, there is not much slack. Seperate and strip the wires back about 3/8 inch. Do the same for the new thermocouple. I twisted the wires together and used a solder sleeve to join the wires. The sleeve is just a little plastic tube that has a ring of solder in it that melts with heat gun heat. You can join the wires using butt connectors or whatever method appeals to you. I just wound the extra wire and put a cable tie around it, there is plenty of hiding space in that area. Make sure the new thermocouple is contacting the coil firmly.At this point, for a test, I left everything apart, propped the drawer against the opening and plugged the fridge in. Note that the evaporator fan will not start spinning immediately! It will just sit there making little bumps like it wants to go. The temp in the coil has to get settled before the electronics in the refridge will tell the fan to spin. It takes maybe 20 minutes. Reassemble. Fridge and freezer work great. It does take several hours for all to get cold again.

broke the valve trying to remove thr water line.Replaced with the new valve. Should have started checking at the ice maker first. Found a frozen ice plug in the inlet tube at the ice maker. Removed same,working like a champ. Now I know where the next time.