GTS18KHPDRCC General Electric Refrigerator - Instructions

i took the backing off with a screwdriver, cut the wires and put the 2 wires on that came with the thermostat. p.s. make sure you pull the power plug before you start.

I shut off the water main, unplugged the fridge and unscrewed the cardboard plate in the back of the fridge. I then removed the old valve from the refrigerator with a socket wrench, removed the hoses and solenoids and then connected all of them to the new valve. I then screwed the new valve back into place and replaced the cardboard plate. The difficult part was getting access to the back of the fridge and valve, it was pretty straightforward aside from that. Unfortunately the fix did not work and no ice or water is being provided from the fridge. There is no circuit board to replace on this model so I am at a loss as to what it could be. The fridge makes noises on occasion which sounds like the ice maker calling for water, but no water gets to the fill valve. Any feedback would be appreciated.

First I removed the electrical plug from the back of the freezer that plugs into the icemaker. I then removed the two hex head screws that hold the icemaker to the wall of the freezer and removed the icemaker. I removed the plastic cover, which incidentally protects the gears, by prying it off with a srewdriver. I removed three small nuts(7mm) which holds the internal cam in place. I removed the cam by pulling it off the shaft. Once I got the part from you folks I reversed the procedure that I just mentioned, and put the icemaker back together. It works great. The part with shipping was around $16.00. A new icemaker was roughly $159.00. If I would have called a technician it would have cost around $300.00 to repair.

I had made a dry run at the repair after watching the instructional film provided by part select and it seemed easy enough.
The only problem was that i needed to use the electrical cord extender (provided) to adapt to my plug type. That presented a problm because it needed to be tucked up out of the way to allow the ice bin to clear. Just needed to be creative in how you wrapped the cord behind the ice maker unit before snugging the attachment screws.
Cranking out ice like crazy.

I watched the video online, followed the instructions and within minutes had the part installed. The frig light was working once again! I will say the original switch was very snug and I had to do some very minor scraping of the plastic to get the new part to slide in.

Turned off the breaker to the fridge because I couldn't reach the power plug to unplug it . Use small flat head screwdriver to pop out the piece, disconnected the rubber prong connectors, inserted the new piece into the rubber prongs snapped it back into place. Flipped the breaker back on and prayed it worked. It did and I saved myself $120 service call.

easy - replaced it

i am totally impressed with your company how effective it is.... i will go to yours if anything is broken or replaced

thanks

I must thank yo for sending the fan so fast. If I ever have to deal with any appliance again, you are first on my list.

put the gratefruit knife behind the old switch pooped it out pluged the new one in piece of cake 5min.even vacumed the dust off the coil

Extremely easy repair, the hardest part was getting the old switch out. I used a pair of needle nose pliers to squeeze the tabs in and it came right out.

This was so easy I think it took me 2 minutes. I am not very mechanically inclined but that didn't matter! Works perfect thank you!

Remove the top cover above the door by lifting it slightly and pulling forward. I used a mirror to make sure that there was nothing in the way of accessing the switch from above. I used a blade screwdriver to press against the switch retainer on the topside, while GENTLY prying from below with another blade screwdriver to get the switch dislodged. Once the retainer was past the opening, I wiggled the switch downward and then rotated it to the left when the rounded top right edge of the switch was visible. This allowed the wiring to the connector to pass thru the hole. I pushed the wiring from the top and pulled from below to get the connector below the opening for the switch. I then unplugged the switch, plugged in the new switch and reversed the removal process feeding the connector thru first then rotating the switch to the right to get the rounded edge of the switch thru the opening, then pressed the switch up into the opening until it snapped into place. Total time less than 10 minutes.

Remove the one screw holding the unit in place, unplug it, slide in the replacement, plug and screw it in.

removed screws holding back plate removed air devise pul slightly out lift straight up and ou remov 2 screws in the fan cage remove ice maker 2 screws and a plug in connector.pull back fram slowly forward angle to the left remove.you'll see condenser in front of you.thermostat is to the right attached to top coil of condenser clips on remove.two wires cut close to old thermos and remove install new one make sure back which is plastic faces you.attach wires with wire nut or inline #14 slices.just go in reverse to finish. maakesure you unplug fridge first and of course plug her back in.wait 24 hours for everything to settle down.

Find a video on youtube. Remove 6 screws. Pull the Styrofoam part up before removing the panel. Unplug and Remove the fan assembly.
You will need a NUT DRIVER to take the bracket off the backing plate.
I ordered the red grommet and the red bumper. You need TWO of the red grommets if that is the problem. My freezer was about 8 years old, and the grommets were worn and compressed, the bumper was not. Replacing these parts DID NOT FIX the problem. I needed a new motor.
I probably disassembled and reassembled this stuff about 7 times before I got all the parts and tools. Each time I had to unload the freezer.