TFX22VRAAAA General Electric Refrigerator - Instructions

The video to replace the flapper looks easy, howerer the first step is to remove thestic cover of the icemaker. In my refrigerator model (as oposed to teh one shown n teh video) teh coved if firmly attached and goes under the refrigerator external plate so I was never abel to take it oot (so step 1 failed).
I was able to replace the flapper TROUGH the whole whre te ice comes from! this took lots of patients and someone with small hands!

Pulled ice tub, removed auger rotation motor and solenoid housing, removed solenoid and replaced with new one and reinstalled. Checked solenoid was working by holding freezer door open and closing switch to door an activating ice switch-- solenoid picked up. Put ice tub with auger back into freezer.

Determined that the little door that opens to allow full size cubes to fall was not opening. If you open freezer door, hold door switch in, select cubes and push in the lever that the glass pushes in you should hear the solenoid lift open which opens the little door. Mine was doing nothing. Removed ice bin and then removed icemaker motor/solenoid section from back of freezer by disconnecting two wire harnesses and one screw. Found that solenoid smelled burnt and could see that inside of the solenoid was swollen out of round and burnt. Simple to replace.

There was what seemed to be a half chewed up washer under the refig. door. The door wasn't closing all the way. DING!! Something was wrong!!

I looked up your schematic for the refrig door and decided what piece might have broken. It was a good guess and the part showed up a few days later.

I wedged up the refrig door to take the tension off the lower bracket. Then, just took off the bracket and replaced the broken door closing cam.

I used a block of wood to hold up the door. Then unbolted the lower hinge from the fridge. That is when I found out that it was fine and it was the upper half of the hinge that was broken (worn).
So I unbolted the upper hinge (mounted on the bottom of door) It uses the same part. So I installed the part on the upper half of the hinge.

I wish somebody would have told me that you need 2 of these for each hinge. The bottom one was in good shape, lucky for me.

Thanks to the stories on PartSelect my wife and I knew what to expect. The biggest hassle was sawing off the rivet that's on the hinge on the refrigerator (my wife volunteered for that job). When we got everything back together the door worked a lot better, but still wouldn't close without a little push. In frustration and running out of time, we put the stuff back inside the refrigerator door and that did the trick! The weight was enough to allow the door to close on its own.

Replaced dispenser flapper

First, I had to remove the face plate where the ice and water was dispensed remove 4 screws holding the electrical circuits, disconnect circuits ,remove 2 screws holding soleniod and one screw holdin crank assembly. repace parts and screws.

I Supported the door with wood blocks. Then used a socket wrench to remove both parts of the lower hinge. I had purchased 2 of these plastic closers as recommended. One of them must be cut off with a Dremel Tool or small grinder. A small bolt and nut replaces the rivet that was cut off. Reinstall it just as it was removed. Job complete.
Parts were delivered on time, web site instructions were excellent. I highly recommend PartSelect.com

The old plastic door closer cam on bottom of the the door had broken. What was left of it was held on by a hex head screw. There was also a fiber spacer under the cam that was broken. I made a new one out of a piece of aluminum, but cardboard probably would have worked.

Forgot to mention you have to take the door off first--loosen the two screws on the top hinge and lift the door out of the bottom hinge.

I found the self-closing sometimes won't work well until there is some weight in the door.

I first removed all of the door contents. I then removed the door from its mountings by removing two screws at the bottom bracket. With the door lying on the floor I then removed the two screws holding the door cam assembly in place. I inserted the new door cam, then reversed the process replacing the four screws.

Removed screws holding top door hinge. Lifted the door off bottom hinge. Unscrewed cam from bottom of door. Drilled out rivet holding the second cam in the bottom hinge. Replaced both cams using a flat headed bolt to hold the bottom cam. Dropped door into bottom hinge and replaced top hinge screws. Job done.

Make sure you buy two cams and have a bolt to replace the bottom rivet.

Not a difficult job as long as you have a drill !!!

I removed two screws at the top of the door, lifted the door off. I got lucky: the broken cam was the one on the door (easy to remove), not the one on the body of the refrigerator (tough to remove).
There is a shim which was also broken - no way to know that ahead of time. I bent a 5/8" lock washer flat and it served acceptably as a shim.
It would be helpful if PartSelect.com could include with its listing of the cam, the fact that (1) the shim will probably be needed, and (2) there's a very good chance that you'll need TWO of the cams as well.

1. I removed the top door hinge.
2. I removed the door and laid it flat.
3. I replaced the cam attached to the bottom of the door. This was very easy.
4. I removed the bottom door hinge and had to remove the brad that held the second cam. This went well as I was able to saw it with a hacksaw.
5. Replaced the second cam with a bolt and nut.
6. Replaced the door and top hinge.
7. Remember to order two cams when you do this repair.

Replaced the old cams with new ones, door works perfect now.