PDS20MBSABB General Electric Refrigerator - Instructions

The first and most important step was to diagnose the problem. To do this I found the Parts Select website and the part I thought was the problem. The previous repairs stories helped me to pin point the problem. The mother board came within a couple of days. All I had to do was take the back plate/guard off, unplug the connectors in the back, unclip the mother board and then do the reverse over again. The only problem was the ground wire. I had to take the one off that came with the part and switch it out with the old one, because it would not connect to my refrigerator. This was fairly simple and in about 30 min. I was done and had our refrigerator back. Luckily we had another in the garage as a back up so we didn't loose any food.

Thanks Parts Select

removed cover from rear of refrigerator. disconnect mother board connections. Unplug first, used needle nose pliers to squeeze plastic tabs holding on motherboard and replaced old with new and plugged back in connections. Plug back in refrigerator and done.

Easy

On the internet forum I read that if the control board needs to be changed , do the same for the Run Capacitor/relay.
The Ge profile refrigerator was 15 years old. First I disconnect the power cord,
I removed the control board at the back of the fridge, replaced it with a new one and did the same for the run capacitor.
Plugged the power cord back and it works fine. GE repair service did not want to come to do it. DIY is fine.

the new board was more complicated than the old, however the install instructions seem to have anticipated this. It works for mow. thanks for inquiring'

Very simple fix by replacing the mother board. Your "how to" video made the repair even easier. The appliance repair estimate was over $400. I saved over $200. I already recommended your site to several other people. Thanks for making it so easy

I easily removed the screws and then removed the board and took a picture so I would remember how to re-connect it. It was really easy and now my refrigerator is working great. If I can do it anyone can do it. My husband was amazed that I did it all by myself.

was not home when part came so my wife installed it enough said

Moved fridge out from wall. Unplugged. Removed circuitboard cover 6 screws?). Replaced circuit board (showed burn spots on back side). Replaced cover and plugged back in.

First, the part arrived very quickly- 2days (FedEx). Removed the back panel, began pulling multi-prong plugs from the old board. To remove the plug that came out laterally (power wires?), I used a thin screwdriver to press the retaining clips on the side of each pin (4 white) holding the circuit board in place and pulled it out for clearance, then wiggled the multi plug free from the board. [I didn't put a lot of pressure on the board while pulling these plugs- 'cause if the new board didn't work, I'd still have the old one.]

Installation was pretty much the reverse of all the steps above. Thankfully, this unit did not have a bottom freezer as two steps in the instructions would have made it riskier.
Once plugged in, I listened for the fan and compressor to kick-in, didn't hear them (was concerned at first), but the dispenser worked ("yea!")- both crushed and cubed ice. The water worked also and it's been running fine for a couple of weeks now. After checking the temp settings they seemed more stable, the fan and compressor kicked in after a few minutes, and the ice-maker is working better than before (fills more quickly). Also, it seems to run less which makes me think I've been wasting electricity while the old control board was bad. Who knows what temps it was trying to reach on each side?
Not that hard to repair, but read the instructions 'very' closely so you don't do something (like cut a wire) that doesn't apply to your fridge. Tim

I ensured that the refrigerator was unplugged from the power, removed the main board enclosure cover, carefully unplugged the wiring connectors from the board, released the 4 plastic standoffs with needle nosed pliers by gently squeezing the ends and removed the board.
I placed the new Main Control Board on the standoffs, carefully re-connected the electrical connectors, ensuring that the plugs were mated correctly, replaced the board enclosure cover and powered up the refrigerator to verify operation of the compressor, fans and controls.
Once verified, I unplugged the refrigerator from the power, removed the access cover to the compressor and condenser and carefully cleaned all dust and lint from the back and underside of the refrigerator before replacing the cover and putting the refrigerator back into service.
The cleaning will improve the efficient operation of the refrigerator.

I pulled the fridge out away from the wall, unplugged fridge, and found the panel that the main control board was behind. after comparing old board with the new i unpluged all of the connections unscrewed four screws and installed new board in reverse order. very simple..

Used 1/4 nut driver and drill to take off acc pnl. The repair amounted to unplugging several connectors, removing the old motherboard, installing the new board and reconnecting the wires. this solved the problem and the whole appliance seems to run better.

The freezer kept getting to warm (up to 28 degrees at times on the digital display). We took the cover off the main control board, and if we pushed on one of the connections it would start the condenser. Sometimes the freezer would work for several weeks, and then have trouble for a week.

Finally we got tired of "baby-sitting" the fridge, and sent for a new main control board. Installed in about 15 minutes, and so far the everything is working great.

I found a burn solder on the main board.
replace it. works again.